Changing front shocks / springs. Hints.
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Changing front shocks / springs. Hints.
I just changed the front springs / shocks in my 2004 F150 new style supercab truck. Thought I'd post some hints that might help someone who is about to tackle such a project.
I used the Monroe Quick Struts so I wouldn't have to mess around with spring compressors etc. They were around $130 each from Amazon.
First, make sure you have a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch drive, deep 30 mm socket, an extension, and a long breaker bar (mine was 30 inches long). Getting the nut off of the bolt that connects the bottom end of the spring / shock to the lower control arm took a lot of effort, and I don't think I could have loosened it without a big bar. I also use my 30 inch bar to get lug nuts off that the local garage cranked on with an impact wrench (even though I always ask them to use a torque wrench). Great thing to have around.
I also found having deep sockets for 18 and 21 mm were really useful, along with same sized combo wrenches, and some sort of a wrench for the head on the lower bolt opposite the 30 mm nut. I used a 15 inch adjustable, but a socket would work just fine as well. Having a decent pry bar to gently get the lower part of the strut off of the control arm was good too. The strut assembly must weigh 50 pounds, and it's not easy to move to get it in between the tabs on the control arm. Finally, you'll need a ball joint tool, or a gear puller to separate the ball joint from the hub / rotor assembly. Banging on it with a hammer will not work.
You have to disconnect the steering knuckle from the hub / rotor assembly to allow the shock / spring unit to be removed from the truck. You also have to disconnect the upper ball joint from the hub / rotor assembly, and the suspension stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm to allow said arm to drop down low enough to get the shock / spring assembly out. Without disconnecting these two, my arm would not drop down enough to get the shock / spring unit out.
The night before, spray all threads with penetrating fluid or WD40. Let them soak over night.
Loosen all nuts before actually taking things apart. Trying to break rusted nuts free when things are apart and loose is nasty. Better to do all of that work when things are tight and together.
You have to hold the threaded part of the stabilizer bar link, and the ball joint to keep them from turning when you remove the nuts. These threaded parts are made so that you can put a small wrench on the end of the threaded part, while putting a bigger wrench on the nut to get it apart.
Have a piece of baling string to support the hub / rotor assembly when you separate the ball joint. You don't want to put a lot of strain on the CV joint when the entire thing comes apart.
When you go to install the new unit, get the top of the spring / shock assembly into the area on the truck body where it bolts in on top. Don't actually try to get threaded studs into the mounting holes yet. Just get it approximately in position. Then insert the bottom part of the spring / shock assembly in between the tabs on the lower control arm. Using the pry bar, jockey the lower end of the assembly into position, and slide the bolt in place. Loosely attach the 30 mm nut. Then using your jack, slowly lift up the control arm, and while it's moving up, guide the spring / shock assembly studs into the correct three holes as you jack up the arm. Once the studs are through the holes, screw on the top nuts a few turns, and then go about reassembling everything else. Once things are together, then tighten everything.
Doing the first spring / shock took me the entire day. The second one was completed in 2 hours. Amazing how much better the truck now rides, now that the two broken springs are removed.
Thanks to everyone who posted instructions. You saved me a ton of time and aggravation. And money.
I used the Monroe Quick Struts so I wouldn't have to mess around with spring compressors etc. They were around $130 each from Amazon.
First, make sure you have a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch drive, deep 30 mm socket, an extension, and a long breaker bar (mine was 30 inches long). Getting the nut off of the bolt that connects the bottom end of the spring / shock to the lower control arm took a lot of effort, and I don't think I could have loosened it without a big bar. I also use my 30 inch bar to get lug nuts off that the local garage cranked on with an impact wrench (even though I always ask them to use a torque wrench). Great thing to have around.
I also found having deep sockets for 18 and 21 mm were really useful, along with same sized combo wrenches, and some sort of a wrench for the head on the lower bolt opposite the 30 mm nut. I used a 15 inch adjustable, but a socket would work just fine as well. Having a decent pry bar to gently get the lower part of the strut off of the control arm was good too. The strut assembly must weigh 50 pounds, and it's not easy to move to get it in between the tabs on the control arm. Finally, you'll need a ball joint tool, or a gear puller to separate the ball joint from the hub / rotor assembly. Banging on it with a hammer will not work.
You have to disconnect the steering knuckle from the hub / rotor assembly to allow the shock / spring unit to be removed from the truck. You also have to disconnect the upper ball joint from the hub / rotor assembly, and the suspension stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm to allow said arm to drop down low enough to get the shock / spring assembly out. Without disconnecting these two, my arm would not drop down enough to get the shock / spring unit out.
The night before, spray all threads with penetrating fluid or WD40. Let them soak over night.
Loosen all nuts before actually taking things apart. Trying to break rusted nuts free when things are apart and loose is nasty. Better to do all of that work when things are tight and together.
You have to hold the threaded part of the stabilizer bar link, and the ball joint to keep them from turning when you remove the nuts. These threaded parts are made so that you can put a small wrench on the end of the threaded part, while putting a bigger wrench on the nut to get it apart.
Have a piece of baling string to support the hub / rotor assembly when you separate the ball joint. You don't want to put a lot of strain on the CV joint when the entire thing comes apart.
When you go to install the new unit, get the top of the spring / shock assembly into the area on the truck body where it bolts in on top. Don't actually try to get threaded studs into the mounting holes yet. Just get it approximately in position. Then insert the bottom part of the spring / shock assembly in between the tabs on the lower control arm. Using the pry bar, jockey the lower end of the assembly into position, and slide the bolt in place. Loosely attach the 30 mm nut. Then using your jack, slowly lift up the control arm, and while it's moving up, guide the spring / shock assembly studs into the correct three holes as you jack up the arm. Once the studs are through the holes, screw on the top nuts a few turns, and then go about reassembling everything else. Once things are together, then tighten everything.
Doing the first spring / shock took me the entire day. The second one was completed in 2 hours. Amazing how much better the truck now rides, now that the two broken springs are removed.
Thanks to everyone who posted instructions. You saved me a ton of time and aggravation. And money.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Alabama
Wish I knew what tools (sockets) be-FORE I started this yesterday! Just to flesh out the tool list for others...
-15 mm socket/wrench; for the 3 nuts at the top of the strut assembly, and the stabilizer bar nut (upper one). I used regular, deepwell and the wrench.
-21 mm socket (deepwell); for the UCA ball joint nut, and steering rod end nut.
-30 mm deepwell socket; for the nut on the lower shock mount bolt.
-27 mm socket for the front/head of the lower shock mount bolt.
-10 mm box wrench; to hold the end of the steering and UCA tapered rods when re-tightening the nuts on them.
-27 mm (or adjustable) wrench to tighten the same two above.
-medium sized vise grip is nice to have
-coat hanger/wire to hang parts and not damage brake lines
I used 3/8" and 1/2" drives. The 30 mm nut was tight, but I was able to get it off with a 1/2" breaker bar.
On my truck I was able to pop the tapered rods loose with a few moderate taps with a hammer, from different sides...take the nuts off first.
The coil-overs are right at 25 lbs. each by my bathroom scales...
-15 mm socket/wrench; for the 3 nuts at the top of the strut assembly, and the stabilizer bar nut (upper one). I used regular, deepwell and the wrench.
-21 mm socket (deepwell); for the UCA ball joint nut, and steering rod end nut.
-30 mm deepwell socket; for the nut on the lower shock mount bolt.
-27 mm socket for the front/head of the lower shock mount bolt.
-10 mm box wrench; to hold the end of the steering and UCA tapered rods when re-tightening the nuts on them.
-27 mm (or adjustable) wrench to tighten the same two above.
-medium sized vise grip is nice to have
-coat hanger/wire to hang parts and not damage brake lines
I used 3/8" and 1/2" drives. The 30 mm nut was tight, but I was able to get it off with a 1/2" breaker bar.
On my truck I was able to pop the tapered rods loose with a few moderate taps with a hammer, from different sides...take the nuts off first.
The coil-overs are right at 25 lbs. each by my bathroom scales...
Last edited by 60DRB; Mar 23, 2014 at 07:09 PM.