Just got 6" BDS Lift, ABS Activating
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Just got 6" BDS Lift, ABS Activating
2002 F150 supercrew, just got 6" BDS lift and 35" tires. Even after correcting for revs/mile with my SCTX3, the ABS will activate at low speeds and acts funny.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Annapolis
Did you call BDS and ask about it? Did you do the install? There are several remarks about the ABS system in the instructions, might be worth a check on the install.
Instructions: http://bds-suspension.com/instructions/023600-1-2-3.pdf
From the instructions, for example, :
Route the ABS wire up the front side of the knuckle, through the control arm and up to the inner fender and
reconnect it to the wire connector. Retain the ABS wire to the back of the knuckle with the provided wire clip, ¼” x
¾” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer from bolt pack #535 (Fig 13). Tighten the ¼” bolt to 10 ft-lbs
Instructions: http://bds-suspension.com/instructions/023600-1-2-3.pdf
From the instructions, for example, :
Route the ABS wire up the front side of the knuckle, through the control arm and up to the inner fender and
reconnect it to the wire connector. Retain the ABS wire to the back of the knuckle with the provided wire clip, ¼” x
¾” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer from bolt pack #535 (Fig 13). Tighten the ¼” bolt to 10 ft-lbs
Last edited by ryanwagner78; Mar 29, 2012 at 06:41 AM.
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Did you call BDS and ask about it? Did you do the install? There are several remarks about the ABS system in the instructions, might be worth a check on the install.
Instructions: http://bds-suspension.com/instructions/023600-1-2-3.pdf
From the instructions, for example, :
Route the ABS wire up the front side of the knuckle, through the control arm and up to the inner fender and
reconnect it to the wire connector. Retain the ABS wire to the back of the knuckle with the provided wire clip, ¼” x
¾” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer from bolt pack #535 (Fig 13). Tighten the ¼” bolt to 10 ft-lbs
Instructions: http://bds-suspension.com/instructions/023600-1-2-3.pdf
From the instructions, for example, :
Route the ABS wire up the front side of the knuckle, through the control arm and up to the inner fender and
reconnect it to the wire connector. Retain the ABS wire to the back of the knuckle with the provided wire clip, ¼” x
¾” bolt, lock washer, and flat washer from bolt pack #535 (Fig 13). Tighten the ¼” bolt to 10 ft-lbs
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It's like a 1.5-2 hr drive, so if it's something small that I can fix myself, I'd definitely rather do that. It isn't a major issue and I'm taking it to them to tighten everything up after 1000 miles so maybe ill just have him fix it then.
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I talked to the programmer of my SCT X3 and they said they can't and don't affect the traction control or ABS. Talked to Ford guy and he said that the abs module does run through the PCM, and so to change it I would have to put the stock tune back on. So that's fine I think I have diagnosed the problem, but now I'm curious if I will be able to put back on my custom tunes after the stock tune is modified. So confused why do these things always happen to me.
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eh crash i agree to disagree... unless it was something added in 99. when my abs light would be on and when i was going under 20mph 95% of the time my ABS would kick on, but not allow me to use my brakes. it would pump backwards essentially. it may just be a wire they forgot to hook up, go all around check all wires and if you see any visible damage to the sensor tips, or wires fix pronto.
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Figured it out (I Think)
Ok so I have educated myself on how ABS systems work, and have an idea of what's happening.
When the lift guy was taking off my right front hub, it was all kinds of rusted and stuck so he spent a few hours beating on it, heating it, etc. In this process I'm sure he damaged a ring inside the hub that has to do with the ABS sensor (I have heard of a few different types of rings that go in there, excitor and tone ring and my mechanic mentioned the tone ring). My mechanic kind of confirmed this but it's impossible to say without taking the hub apart.
I unhooked my rear speed sensor to turn the ABS off and all is fine, so now I have to figure out how hard it is to change my own hub and I should be good to go. Any more thoughts?
When the lift guy was taking off my right front hub, it was all kinds of rusted and stuck so he spent a few hours beating on it, heating it, etc. In this process I'm sure he damaged a ring inside the hub that has to do with the ABS sensor (I have heard of a few different types of rings that go in there, excitor and tone ring and my mechanic mentioned the tone ring). My mechanic kind of confirmed this but it's impossible to say without taking the hub apart.
I unhooked my rear speed sensor to turn the ABS off and all is fine, so now I have to figure out how hard it is to change my own hub and I should be good to go. Any more thoughts?
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Lariat-
It is a process of elimination. ABS light on, it is electronic. If not, it is mechanical. I post my experience after years of formal education and training. Beating on things is most likely the problem. One missing tooth will cause a problem.
If the light is NOT on, you eliminated the entire electronic system. There are grease monkeys, mechanics, technicians, and high caliber technicians. A technician would know to grab the manual and do it right, and a hammer is not going to be in the book. I am betting the dealer has a special tool kit for removing the ring if it is servicable.
It is a process of elimination. ABS light on, it is electronic. If not, it is mechanical. I post my experience after years of formal education and training. Beating on things is most likely the problem. One missing tooth will cause a problem.
If the light is NOT on, you eliminated the entire electronic system. There are grease monkeys, mechanics, technicians, and high caliber technicians. A technician would know to grab the manual and do it right, and a hammer is not going to be in the book. I am betting the dealer has a special tool kit for removing the ring if it is servicable.
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From: California
First things first, check the abs cable to check for wear, cuts, rips, or if it is being pulled extremely hard. Check from the knuckle all the way up into the fender.
Next I'd check the sensor that slips into knuckle and the abs ring (behind your rotor.) Take the tire off and check it out and compare with the other side. The sensor could be damaged, not fully seated into the knuckle, abs ring dented, abs ring corroded, out of spec and not true, or etc. Who knows you might even have a defective knuckle and the abs pilot hole is not within spec, which would suck.
Next I'd check the sensor that slips into knuckle and the abs ring (behind your rotor.) Take the tire off and check it out and compare with the other side. The sensor could be damaged, not fully seated into the knuckle, abs ring dented, abs ring corroded, out of spec and not true, or etc. Who knows you might even have a defective knuckle and the abs pilot hole is not within spec, which would suck.