Lift Question
#1
Lift Question
So i have a 01 f150 reg cab 2wd with 97,000 miles on it and i was thinking on puting a spindle lift on it. So would it be a good idea to put about 300 to 400 bucks in it for the lift. and do i have to worry about the angles and get new uca's and do i need a spring compressor to do it. And can i use the stock springs and shocks.
#2
Yea, that truck will last a long longer as long as you keep up maintainence.
You don't have to worry about angles, it won't change geometry. Which also means you don't need new shocks.
You don't need aftermarket upper arms, because again it won't change the geometry. However... If they are the factory arms as in 97k old, this would be the perfect time to replace them. You'll have to knock them free from the spindle anyways to install them, and chances are they'll get damage doing that and need to be replaced anyways. As well as lower balljoints too, you'll have to knock them free also and might as well do it while you have it all apart. On the upper arms the ball joints are built in, so you'll have to replace the entire arm. On the lowers, they're press in so you'll only have to replace the ball joints. I reccommend moog parts because they're greasable so they'll last much longer than oem replacements.
You can keep your stock coils and shocks. But if your shocks are 97k old too you might as well replace them because they're probably long been gone same with the ball joints.
You don't need a spring compressor to do it, just leave the shock in place while you have the spindle off and it'll make sure that spring goes no where. But I recommend picking up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual if you don't have one already, it'll make the install much easier.
While you have it apart too, if all suspension wise is still factory, you might as well and go ahead and check tie-rods, pitman arm, and idler arm for play too. Because if you have to replace the upper arm chances are you'll need an alignment so you might as well replace everything at once so you only have to do the tear down once and get an alignment once.
You don't have to worry about angles, it won't change geometry. Which also means you don't need new shocks.
You don't need aftermarket upper arms, because again it won't change the geometry. However... If they are the factory arms as in 97k old, this would be the perfect time to replace them. You'll have to knock them free from the spindle anyways to install them, and chances are they'll get damage doing that and need to be replaced anyways. As well as lower balljoints too, you'll have to knock them free also and might as well do it while you have it all apart. On the upper arms the ball joints are built in, so you'll have to replace the entire arm. On the lowers, they're press in so you'll only have to replace the ball joints. I reccommend moog parts because they're greasable so they'll last much longer than oem replacements.
You can keep your stock coils and shocks. But if your shocks are 97k old too you might as well replace them because they're probably long been gone same with the ball joints.
You don't need a spring compressor to do it, just leave the shock in place while you have the spindle off and it'll make sure that spring goes no where. But I recommend picking up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual if you don't have one already, it'll make the install much easier.
While you have it apart too, if all suspension wise is still factory, you might as well and go ahead and check tie-rods, pitman arm, and idler arm for play too. Because if you have to replace the upper arm chances are you'll need an alignment so you might as well replace everything at once so you only have to do the tear down once and get an alignment once.
#4
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#9
If your only doing spindles and no springs or spacers I wouldn't get blocks none are short enough to keep it level just get either an add-a-leaf or shackles
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#15