Factory 2" block switcheroo & leveling Hmm??
Trying to level out an 02 f150. Have read several posts of individuals removing the factory blocks.
IMO with the bump stop brackets attatched to the blocks and blocks removed, that would put bind on the driveline thus inflicting infinate stress on the spring pack when the truck is loaded down.
I am against fabricating a bump stop bracket onto the top plate as I feel 1/4in flatstock will bend anyway.
Shackels? Nah, i do not want to angle the pinion and driveline.
Looks to me as if we were to relocate the blocks to the top of the spring pack, [attatching the mounting plate ontop of the blocks and using original u-bolts] instead of under them we would lower the rearend and have our bump stops, yet would sacrifice clearance in the bump stop length area.
Any thoughts??
Any concerns??
IMO with the bump stop brackets attatched to the blocks and blocks removed, that would put bind on the driveline thus inflicting infinate stress on the spring pack when the truck is loaded down.
I am against fabricating a bump stop bracket onto the top plate as I feel 1/4in flatstock will bend anyway.
Shackels? Nah, i do not want to angle the pinion and driveline.
Looks to me as if we were to relocate the blocks to the top of the spring pack, [attatching the mounting plate ontop of the blocks and using original u-bolts] instead of under them we would lower the rearend and have our bump stops, yet would sacrifice clearance in the bump stop length area.
Any thoughts??
Any concerns??
Yea it doesn't really work like that. You can still damage the leaf pack with or without the bumpstops. But generally speaking you should never load the truck enough anyways to need them, because at that point you'd be maxing out what you should carry. So if you hit the bumpstops you probably should just unload some stuff. And if I remember right, the mounting plate needs to be on top of the spring to help keep them centered and what not.
If it was me, I'd just remove the block and just pay attention to how much you actually load into the truck when you do it. Or I'd just bring the front up to match the rear, unless your going for the lowered style look.
If it was me, I'd just remove the block and just pay attention to how much you actually load into the truck when you do it. Or I'd just bring the front up to match the rear, unless your going for the lowered style look.
Yes the mounting plates will still go ontop. I pulled one side apart and this method will work but as stated the clearance between the stops will be closer. Torsion bars are adjusted, but what I am trying to obtain is the ride. Having the torsion bars adjusted up is just to harsh on components and ride. The truck has a 2" body lift already, just wanna get rid of that jacked up look in the rear. Its a rarity that I have to haul heavy loads but on occasion I have to haul a skid loader and trailer short distances. I would rather have the insurance of the bump stops when bumps in the road are met verses driveline issues.
Cold weather has hit and for now, i think i shall wait until I can get the truck into the shop with heat to work on the truck.
Thanks for the input, and if all else fails, I will remove the blocks completely.
Any additional input or concerns are more than welcome by me!!
Cold weather has hit and for now, i think i shall wait until I can get the truck into the shop with heat to work on the truck.
Thanks for the input, and if all else fails, I will remove the blocks completely.
Any additional input or concerns are more than welcome by me!!
Just moved them from under the spring pack to the top. Welded 1/4in plate on the bottom side which is now the top that contacts the rubber. Leveled it out nice, i still have bumpstops and did not cost me a dime. Easy leveling!!


