AS 2 inch install problem
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 106
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From: Georgia
I have an 06 and tried to install a 2" AS. It wouldnt fit because the bolts aligned differently and turned the strut around.. causing it to hit my frame. I wouldnt recommend them anymore. get bilstiens
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Joined: May 2010
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I have posted this a few times...
1. Don't use a pry bar or bottle jack to force the control arm down - your CV joints are binding!
2. The solution is simple, just remove the two bolts at the back of the lower control arm and slide the strut right back in - simple! (I tried to rent a spring compressor before doing this, which didn't help.
3. Just put the lower control arm back in its original location as seen by the bolt scars in the paint.
4. Get an alignment.
One more thing. On my '09 4x4 SCREW, the 2" AS kit made my front sit 3/8" higher than the back. I stacked a 1" steel block from fatbobsgarge.com on the back (with longer U bolts), and now I have a nice 5/8" rake. Its sits level with about 500# in the back. If I was doing it again, I would have considered the 1.5" kit.
1. Don't use a pry bar or bottle jack to force the control arm down - your CV joints are binding!
2. The solution is simple, just remove the two bolts at the back of the lower control arm and slide the strut right back in - simple! (I tried to rent a spring compressor before doing this, which didn't help.
3. Just put the lower control arm back in its original location as seen by the bolt scars in the paint.
4. Get an alignment.
One more thing. On my '09 4x4 SCREW, the 2" AS kit made my front sit 3/8" higher than the back. I stacked a 1" steel block from fatbobsgarge.com on the back (with longer U bolts), and now I have a nice 5/8" rake. Its sits level with about 500# in the back. If I was doing it again, I would have considered the 1.5" kit.
Last edited by 2009KR; Oct 10, 2010 at 08:26 AM.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 17
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From: Sumter, SC
I have posted this a few times...
1. Don't use a pry bar or bottle jack to force the control arm down - your CV joints are binding!
2. The solution is simple, just remove the two bolts at the back of the lower control arm and slide the strut right back in - simple! (I tried to rent a spring compressor before doing this, which didn't help.
3. Just put the lower control arm back in its original location as seen by the bolt scars in the paint.
4. Get an alignment.
One more thing. On my '09 4x4 SCREW, the 2" AS kit made my front sit 3/8" higher than the back. I stacked a 1" steel block from fatbobsgarge.com on the back (with longer U bolts), and now I have a nice 5/8" rake. Its sits level with about 500# in the back. If I was doing it again, I would have considered the 1.5" kit.
1. Don't use a pry bar or bottle jack to force the control arm down - your CV joints are binding!
2. The solution is simple, just remove the two bolts at the back of the lower control arm and slide the strut right back in - simple! (I tried to rent a spring compressor before doing this, which didn't help.
3. Just put the lower control arm back in its original location as seen by the bolt scars in the paint.
4. Get an alignment.
One more thing. On my '09 4x4 SCREW, the 2" AS kit made my front sit 3/8" higher than the back. I stacked a 1" steel block from fatbobsgarge.com on the back (with longer U bolts), and now I have a nice 5/8" rake. Its sits level with about 500# in the back. If I was doing it again, I would have considered the 1.5" kit.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 371
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I believe that the 1.5" spacer is 1 3/16" (might have been 1 3/8") instead of 1 5/8", so I don't think it will allow the strut to go back in without removing the LCA bolts either. It isn't even close with the 2" kit. With my 2" AS leveling kit, my upper control arm is at a little larger angle than I would like, and it certainly rests against the spring when the weight is taken off of the front wheel (via a jack). I really do like my truck's stance with the blocks in the back though.
By the way, I stacked a 1" block on top of my factory block because no one made a 2.5" block, and I didn't want as much rake as a 3" block would add. I did a fair amount of research before "stacking" my blocks. There are a lot of strong opinions about this, but after looking at many lifted trucks and considering the mechanics of this approach carefully - I am an engineer - I decided that I am comfortable with a 1" block stacked on top of the factor 1.5" block.
As far as the difficulty of removing the LCA bolts, it only takes 60 seconds with an impact wrench - no big deal. Having a second person to keep the unit from dropping too low and straining the brake line was useful; without this, I suspend the hub with a wire.
By the way, I stacked a 1" block on top of my factory block because no one made a 2.5" block, and I didn't want as much rake as a 3" block would add. I did a fair amount of research before "stacking" my blocks. There are a lot of strong opinions about this, but after looking at many lifted trucks and considering the mechanics of this approach carefully - I am an engineer - I decided that I am comfortable with a 1" block stacked on top of the factor 1.5" block.
As far as the difficulty of removing the LCA bolts, it only takes 60 seconds with an impact wrench - no big deal. Having a second person to keep the unit from dropping too low and straining the brake line was useful; without this, I suspend the hub with a wire.
Last edited by 2009KR; Oct 10, 2010 at 08:34 PM.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 17
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From: Sumter, SC
I believe that the 1.5" spacer is 1 3/16" (might have been 1 3/8") instead of 1 5/8", so I don't think it will allow the strut to go back in without removing the LCA bolts either. It isn't even close with the 2" kit. With my 2" AS leveling kit, my upper control arm is at a little larger angle than I would like, and it certainly rests against the spring when the weight is taken off of the front wheel (via a jack). I really do like my truck's stance with the blocks in the back though.
By the way, I stacked a 1" block on top of my factory block because no one made a 2.5" block, and I didn't want as much rake as a 3" block would add. I did a fair amount of research before "stacking" my blocks. There are a lot of strong opinions about this, but after looking at many lifted trucks and considering the mechanics of this approach carefully - I am an engineer - I decided that I am comfortable with a 1" block stacked on top of the factor 1.5" block.
As far as the difficulty of removing the LCA bolts, it only takes 60 seconds with an impact wrench - no big deal. Having a second person to keep the unit from dropping too low and straining the brake line was useful; without this, I suspend the hub with a wire.
By the way, I stacked a 1" block on top of my factory block because no one made a 2.5" block, and I didn't want as much rake as a 3" block would add. I did a fair amount of research before "stacking" my blocks. There are a lot of strong opinions about this, but after looking at many lifted trucks and considering the mechanics of this approach carefully - I am an engineer - I decided that I am comfortable with a 1" block stacked on top of the factor 1.5" block.
As far as the difficulty of removing the LCA bolts, it only takes 60 seconds with an impact wrench - no big deal. Having a second person to keep the unit from dropping too low and straining the brake line was useful; without this, I suspend the hub with a wire.
Thanks. I had the 2" within about 1/4" of fitting by loosening the LCA bolts before I gave up. Autospring has offered to replace my 2" with a 1.5". So I may can make it work. Did you mark the LCA location on the frame before removing the bolts? I am afraid that I wouldn't get it back on exactly the same and screw something up. Is the location of the LCA upon installation critical for any of the suspension geometry?
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 15
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From: BC Canada
I just did mine today on a 2010 platinum, I used a mini chain hoist (really mini) make sure you put the ratcheting end at the back of the strut so when the chain link binds it will pull back on the strut. if you put the hooks in the right slots on the frame and the strut tower, bowing the chain around the bottom spring plate the chain hoist will pull the strut up, sideways, and back popping the bottom of the strut into the VERY tight pocket on the lower control arm (a little bit of manipulation with a short prybar will help too). You know a little bit of grinding around the opening for the bottom of the strut would have helped too actually. It is not easy on the 2010's (not sure about the 09's) thats for sure, I tried with a long prybar for a long time and only managed to shave my knuckles and some strut paint, stopped and thought about it for a bit and this worked.