2" or 2.5" Level?
2" or 2.5" Level?
Hey guys,
Needing some assistance on whether or not to go with the 2" AS or 2.5" AS level? Plan on running 33x12.50 on 20s. I have researched the archives and have seen some people warn about ball joint failure with anything over the 2.5. I also tow a 22ft bayboat that weighs approx 4,500 lbs with boat, motor, trailer and want to avoid sagging at all possible. Any feedback is appreciated.
Needing some assistance on whether or not to go with the 2" AS or 2.5" AS level? Plan on running 33x12.50 on 20s. I have researched the archives and have seen some people warn about ball joint failure with anything over the 2.5. I also tow a 22ft bayboat that weighs approx 4,500 lbs with boat, motor, trailer and want to avoid sagging at all possible. Any feedback is appreciated.
I did a 2.5 upfront and 1" block in the rear and it sits exactly level. Should be fine with 2 or 2.5 with 33's for tire clearance. I wouln't do 2.5" unless you are lifting the back, I think your rear will look lower all the time. Would probably want to look at AAL or air bags if you always want it level with or without the boat. If you do 2.5 up front and a 1" block rear it will be good untill you put the boat on then you will probably look low in the rear. I hear AAL's stiffen it up and that would level you out with the 2.5" and would be stiffer for the extra towing weight.
As stated, you can go with either a 2" or 2.5". My 08 is a touch high in the front with a 2.5". You can see pics in my profile. If you are concerned about towing and dont want to AAL I would stick with a 2". Not to mention if you are only planning on running 33" there is no need for the additional .5". The reason I went with the 2.5" is because I am going with 35's.
does anyone know the actual thickness of the 2.5" AS? I have a Rize and it is an actual 2.5" thickness, but it sits way too high and the suspension angles are ridiculous. I just ordered the HBS 2.5" to replace it and its actual thickness is 1.625".
I would go with the 2" as. I did on my 2008 f150 xl and even with just the 2" I still had to have eccentric cam bolts so that the shop could get the camber aligned within specs. My truck sits almost perfectly level with the 2". I chose the 2" over the 2.5" or 3" due to my lack of desire to deal with possible premature wear issues. I imagine the closer to stock the less stress you are placing on your components
I did a 2.5 and it looked good but I tow and haul often so I ended up adding an AAL to get my rake back and not sag when towing. Now with my 30ft travel trailer it sits dead level. I would probably go with the 2" if I were you unless you want to add air bags or an AAL for towing.
Spacer Size / Total Lift
1 5/8...............2"
1 11/16............2.5"
1 3/4...............3"
This means the 2.5 HBS = the 2 AS....
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Awesome guys, thanks so much! I was leaning towards the 2" AS....So this gives me the final answer on my choice. Any opinions on the best place to purchase for the lowest price?
To my knowledge ebay is the only place you can get an AS kit. Thats where I got mine, no problems, fast shipping.
Also I recommend getting the poweder coated version, only a couple more bucks, but NO RUST, here is a link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTO-...item20ade818e1
Also I recommend getting the poweder coated version, only a couple more bucks, but NO RUST, here is a link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTO-...item20ade818e1
Last edited by mdhawkin; Nov 5, 2009 at 08:28 PM. Reason: updated link
Thanks MDhawkin for the recommendation, i will indeed go with the powder coated AS. My last question is how hard is the install for the average DYI? What tools are needed and how long does the job take?
No problem guys, glad I could help.
The install is not that bad, I do recommend a second set of hands. Its nice to have a buddy around when reconnecting the spindle to the upper control arm (ball joint). Sometimes disconnecting the UCA from the spindle gives people issues, but the key is, apply a little force (pry bar) then hit the spindle a couple times with a hammer and it will pop loose. If you have ever disconnected a tappered fitting you know whats going on. Other than that its not that bad, I did mine in a couple hours. As far as tools go, Autosprings instructions provide a tool list here: http://www.autospringcorp.com/produc...Expedition.PDF. A torque wrench that goes to 225lbs was the only thing I did not have, but luckly my Dad had one that I borrowed.
Dont forget to get an alignment ASAP after the install.
The install is not that bad, I do recommend a second set of hands. Its nice to have a buddy around when reconnecting the spindle to the upper control arm (ball joint). Sometimes disconnecting the UCA from the spindle gives people issues, but the key is, apply a little force (pry bar) then hit the spindle a couple times with a hammer and it will pop loose. If you have ever disconnected a tappered fitting you know whats going on. Other than that its not that bad, I did mine in a couple hours. As far as tools go, Autosprings instructions provide a tool list here: http://www.autospringcorp.com/produc...Expedition.PDF. A torque wrench that goes to 225lbs was the only thing I did not have, but luckly my Dad had one that I borrowed.
Dont forget to get an alignment ASAP after the install.
Last edited by mdhawkin; Nov 5, 2009 at 09:51 PM.
Sounds good, hit me up if you run into trouble, I should be able to steer you in the right direction.


