Torsion key and block question
#1
Torsion key and block question
Alright so heres the story. I just bought a 3 inch body kit and 35s. I have a 1999 f 150 5.4 4x4 extended cab. Basically want more height, so i was thinking blocks and torsion bar keys. Now say i got these torsion bar keys below that supposedly give an extra 2-3 inchs of lift.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-03...1%7C240%3A1318
will these keys actually get me 3 inchs more than what i have factory, as it sits right now? And than in the effort of trying to get 3 inches out of the keys, and being that i have a factory 2 inch block, would i need to get a 5 inch block to match the keys? For a total of a 3 inch raise in the front and 3 inch raise in the back.
I guess im concerned that the keys wont actually get me 3 more inches, at least hoping for 2.5 tho. Let me know what ya guys think! Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-03...1%7C240%3A1318
will these keys actually get me 3 inchs more than what i have factory, as it sits right now? And than in the effort of trying to get 3 inches out of the keys, and being that i have a factory 2 inch block, would i need to get a 5 inch block to match the keys? For a total of a 3 inch raise in the front and 3 inch raise in the back.
I guess im concerned that the keys wont actually get me 3 more inches, at least hoping for 2.5 tho. Let me know what ya guys think! Thanks
#2
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Katy, TEXAS/ Laramie, Wyoming
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you can raise the front 3 inches, but you will tare cv boots and it will ride like crap. trust me, i did 3", and lowered mine down to 2" in the front. in the rear i did a lift shackle that i got on ebay with the keys. here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-2-L...3A1|240%3A1318
#4
ok quick question...i believe what you say wandell 100% because it seems like you know your stuff...last night me and my buds got into an arguement and i was defending your points saying to just crank the torsion bars...they (although they do drive chevies, is there a difference??) claimed that by adding keys and not cranking the bars after adding keys they lifted their fronts 2", still had a descent ride, and didn't have as severe angles as i would have if i cranked mine up
what if any of this is true?? thanks
what if any of this is true?? thanks
#5
#6
A lot of people hate to admit that they screwed up by wasting $100 or $200 on a product. Increasing preload on the torsion bars is increasing preload. It doesn't matter if you use the OEM keys or aftermarket keys, the preload and ride quality will be the same for any given lift height. The problem with the aftermarket keys is they allow you to put way, way too much preload on your torsion bars. Also ride quality is supjective. A lot of people crank up their torsion bars all the way with the OEM adjustment keys. Some say they love the ride, some say they can't stand it and some say they can't tell the difference.
#7
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#8
So it sounds like i would be able to match the 4 inchs blocks with the torsion keys i have right now? If i say, got a 4 inch block lift minus the 2 inchs factory will give me a 2 inch lift in the rear for a total of 5 inchs with body lift, that sounds like plenty. Anyone got any better ideas? I dont feel like spending 1500 to lift my damn truck. What happened to the old days when suspension lifting was so easy? and cheap...
#9
A lot of people hate to admit that they screwed up by wasting $100 or $200 on a product. Increasing preload on the torsion bars is increasing preload. It doesn't matter if you use the OEM keys or aftermarket keys, the preload and ride quality will be the same for any given lift height. The problem with the aftermarket keys is they allow you to put way, way too much preload on your torsion bars. Also ride quality is supjective. A lot of people crank up their torsion bars all the way with the OEM adjustment keys. Some say they love the ride, some say they can't stand it and some say they can't tell the difference.
wandell is pretty much on the money.
An increase in the torsion bar is pretty much increasing the preload.
It doesnt matter if you get aftermarket keys or use your stocks, its like overtightening a bolt, if you use a snap on wrench or a cheap no-name wrench its all the same, your bolt will still be over tightened.
some people like that tough kidney bursting ride and others dont... basically if you like your factory ride and do the torsion trick then you will dislike it because it will ride stiffer (lowering guys it rides bouncier)
The best way to lift up your front end 2" and keep the same factory ride and geometry is with lift spindles (knuckles sometimes called) The wheel/brakes etc just get repositioned two inches lower thereby lifting the truck two inches up.
This is the most solid and effective way to gain the extra two commas, but it may be a bit expensive...
you could crank the torsion bars or add spacers on the springs but all in all a good quality kit will make you happy.
If your looking on ebay for a cheap fix please dont get back on and complain how your "lift" rides like poo...
#10
ok quick question...i believe what you say wandell 100% because it seems like you know your stuff...last night me and my buds got into an arguement and i was defending your points saying to just crank the torsion bars...they (although they do drive chevies, is there a difference??) claimed that by adding keys and not cranking the bars after adding keys they lifted their fronts 2", still had a descent ride, and didn't have as severe angles as i would have if i cranked mine up
what if any of this is true?? thanks
what if any of this is true?? thanks
Oh by the way a torsion bar is a torsion bar...
Yes they bought keys... all that does is make them position the bar tighter on the brace which IS cranking it up via keys....
factory keys are just repositioned one or two turnes up to achieve the same result..... Sure the keys may have a SLIGHT angle difference but they are doing the same thing... Why are you listening to them? they drive chevys and think they know all? :o
#11
#12
So it sounds like i would be able to match the 4 inchs blocks with the torsion keys i have right now? If i say, got a 4 inch block lift minus the 2 inchs factory will give me a 2 inch lift in the rear for a total of 5 inchs with body lift, that sounds like plenty. Anyone got any better ideas? I dont feel like spending 1500 to lift my damn truck. What happened to the old days when suspension lifting was so easy? and cheap...
It never really works out that way. Trust me if you want to crank the torsion bars just do so via the factory keys. you may have the front end either slightly higher or lower than the rear that way or you may end up level try it out before you drop the money on those cheap keys.
And the suspension is the same... people have just gotten lazier and cheaper lol.....
I like this thought, as suspension modernizes, people must too modernize.
All it takes to lift a suspension is to properly remount the factory suspension points lower on the chassies. thats what lifts do, just not enough people like the old days willing to take that step themselves.
#14
This is what I would do. Add the body lift and crank up the torsion bars as high as you can without causing crazy looking CV and ball joint angles. Then if you want the rear a higher, but the size block you want. You may want to just replace the factory 2 inch lift block with a 3 or 4 inch block for one or two inches of lift.
#15
people used too hillbilly rig solid axles too. i've seen people use blocks on the fronts of old solid axle trucks. not safe at all. properly lifting solid axle trucks takes work/money too, just typically not as much time in install.
suspension lifts are expensive for a reason, you are adding a sturdy subframe to support the suspension at its new mounting points. longer shocks, steering knuckles, dropdown brackets, etc, are needed to compensate for the lift.
suspension lifts are expensive for a reason, you are adding a sturdy subframe to support the suspension at its new mounting points. longer shocks, steering knuckles, dropdown brackets, etc, are needed to compensate for the lift.