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sorry another torsion bar question

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 03:00 AM
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sorry another torsion bar question

i searched but i couldn't find a direct answer..

basically how high can you crank the torsion bars on a 98 4x4 without running into trouble?

ik on the NBS most ppl get the 2.5" kit so is that all the higher i can go on the old body style?? i want to level the truck but i also want to put an aal in the back and i've heard they lift them around 1" so i was hoping i could get 3" of lift in the front to pretty much level the truck

also i've heard ppl run bilstein 5100's to get 2" of lift in the front...does this work on the 97-03's as well??

also want to add a 3" body to essentially have 6" of lift

im sure my thining is flawed somewhere as im totally new to modding suspensions on trucks
 
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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You can probably crank your torsion bars up all the way using your OEM adjustment keys without any problem. Just make sure your CV and ball joints don't appear to be at an extreme angle.
If you add a 3 inch body lift, you will wind up with a truck that sits around 5 inches taller than stock. This will allow you to fit up to a 35x12.50 tire on a 10 inch wide wheel.
The new trucks have coilover shocks up front. The shocks on our truck do not support any body weight so changing shocks has no affect on ride height.
 

Last edited by wandell; Feb 17, 2009 at 09:46 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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i ran my truck w/ 35's, a body lift, and the torsion bars cranked fully for about two years. using the stock keys, you will face no issues in achieving a correct alignment. you will get about 2.5''s out of the bars, at most. the tires themselves will provide 1.5'' of lift. w/ the body lift, you will have a stance 7'' higher than stock.

however, i split cv boots on both cv axles. keep in mind my truck sees moderate off road use, and i drive like 30mph over potholes and speed bumps all the time. if you drive conservatively, you will probably be ok.

i will tell you, rebuilding the stock cv shafts is a bitch if/when the boots tear. you don't want to switch to a reman, either because of quality control reasons...

be aware that the front suspension will ride a lot rougher w/ the bars cranked fully.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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thanx for the response guys, sounds like this will be the way to go as i can get this all done for around 300 bucks hopefully...

if i run this setup and only run like 33" tires it still wouldn't look bad right?? i want to get 35's but idk if the wallet can afford it

also how would it look with stock tires?? i have stock tires on my stock rims right now that i would like to keep and run as a winter set, the tires are only 2 years old and still have some pretty good life left in them

once again thanks, you guys and this site are amazing
 
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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It will look fine. 33's or 35's look fine with a body lift and the torsion bars cranked up.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by minimonster17
i ran my truck w/ 35's, a body lift, and the torsion bars cranked fully for about two years. using the stock keys, you will face no issues in achieving a correct alignment. you will get about 2.5''s out of the bars, at most. the tires themselves will provide 1.5'' of lift. w/ the body lift, you will have a stance 7'' higher than stock.

however, i split cv boots on both cv axles. keep in mind my truck sees moderate off road use, and i drive like 30mph over potholes and speed bumps all the time. if you drive conservatively, you will probably be ok.

i will tell you, rebuilding the stock cv shafts is a bitch if/when the boots tear. you don't want to switch to a reman, either because of quality control reasons...

be aware that the front suspension will ride a lot rougher w/ the bars cranked fully.
I have the same setup and I, too, have torn both CV boots several times. However, I just bought a remanned one from Advance. It was $60 with lifetime warranty. Both sides use the same part number so after you buy one you basically get free axles from that point on. I think I've replaced both sides twice, and have only spent the original $60. I can now replace one in about a half hour. Much easier than replacing just the boot IMO.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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i got 2.1" out of cranking my torsion bars to the max.

but i busted ball joints, and bent my torsion bars as well as cracked my torsion keys. all in one day, And the ball joints were less than a 24hrs old.

But i beat the **** out of my truck.

and i have a picture of body lift and t-bars cranked and 33" BFG TA KO's i didnt like the look but road it till i sold the 33's and picked up my 36's
here you go
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:45 PM
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On one of my 98[Expys] I had two spring spacers in the rear,turned stock torsion bars to level it out and a 3" BL.Ran 35,s on a 16x10.Only had to shave the front valence and factory running boards[very small].NO issues
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fiveohpoepoe
On one of my 98[Expys] I had two spring spacers in the rear,turned stock torsion bars to level it out and a 3" BL.Ran 35,s on a 16x10.Only had to shave the front valence and factory running boards[very small].NO issues
i ran 36's on stock wheels, torsion bars cranked, and a 3" BL. And cut some plastic but it worked till it broke
 
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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c'mon Cecil, i had an extra set of torsion bars i was willing to give you to get your truck moving when you bent yours.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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trimble, is your engine like painted white?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 06yz250f
trimble, is your engine like painted white?
the old one was... but thats the one i blew up.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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I had my bars turned all the way up. Then after all the off roading i do at the lake has torn up my axle. joints gone, half shaft gone. Torque them half way up is my opinion so there is some flex.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
i ran 36's on stock wheels, torsion bars cranked, and a 3" BL. And cut some plastic but it worked till it broke
Im pretty sure I could have gone with 36,s...I didnt want to take that chance though and knew I could with 35,s
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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i wouldnt suggest it to anyone. I had to cut alot of plastic off the bumper, but besides that i could drive it everyday no problem. But offroad the tires rubbed really bad when flexing at all. Then after so much rubbing on the frame my Tie-rods were toast so i put on wheel spacers to avoid hitting the frame. It worked but then i started rubbing on the fender flare closest to the driver so i trimmed that. It worked pretty good then i broke it.

i didnt care about cutting the bumper cause im getting/ making a winch bumper for my truck.
 
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