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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #16  
_cashel's Avatar
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From: Ocala/Orlando, FL
I bought the truck with the Fabtech lift on it, and no it didn't have a steering stabilizer. I had a 3.55LS gear ratio stock. I drove my truck on 38's with stock gears for about 3 weeks and hated every second of it. If you think there's a slight power loss with 35's, there's absolutely no power with 38's. You definitely can't drive it with overdrive on. You need the 4.88 gears if you're going to go with that big of a tire.

edit: and I was getting somewhere around 8mpg with stock gears and 38's. With the new gears I'd have to guess I'm somewhere around 12mpg (my speedo is off, so I'm not exactly sure).
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 11:39 PM
  #17  
str8t six's Avatar
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From: swamps of la
heres my truck. it is a 2001 f150 with a 6" RCD lift and a 3"body lift with 35" nitto mudgrapplers

http://a133.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...229e6866fc.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...1b53a01b57.jpg
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #18  
SKRWZ's Avatar
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From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
My truck with a 6" Icon (DR) suspension and 6" Deaver springs w/ the factory 2" block + a 3" PA body lift on 35/12.50/17 Parnelli Jones Dirt grip radials w/ 17x10 Centerline Wolfer wheels



 

Last edited by SKRWZ; Nov 30, 2008 at 12:06 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #19  
kingcrete's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville Fl
Originally Posted by _cashel
I bought the truck with the Fabtech lift on it, and no it didn't have a steering stabilizer. I had a 3.55LS gear ratio stock. I drove my truck on 38's with stock gears for about 3 weeks and hated every second of it. If you think there's a slight power loss with 35's, there's absolutely no power with 38's. You definitely can't drive it with overdrive on. You need the 4.88 gears if you're going to go with that big of a tire.

edit: and I was getting somewhere around 8mpg with stock gears and 38's. With the new gears I'd have to guess I'm somewhere around 12mpg (my speedo is off, so I'm not exactly sure).
i was looking through a thread and saw where you had to do some trimming when you got your 38's. What all did you have to trim?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #20  
_cashel's Avatar
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From: Ocala/Orlando, FL
I trimmed the plastic valence and the nubs on the lower control arms. I still rub on the tie rods at full lock, so I've got to figure something out with that.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #21  
kingcrete's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville Fl
Originally Posted by _cashel
I trimmed the plastic valence and the nubs on the lower control arms. I still rub on the tie rods at full lock, so I've got to figure something out with that.

do you think a 37/13.50/17 would solve the problem of rubbing on the tie rods, or like a 38/13.50/17 i know you got 16's but i guess what im asking is could that problem be solved by you going from a 14.50 to a 14.00 . The only tire i could find to fit my dc-1's 17's in a 38's are irok bias and im never heard anything good about SuperSwampers.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #22  
_cashel's Avatar
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From: Ocala/Orlando, FL
Probably, really any tire more narrow than the one I've got would probably fix the rubbing. I love the stance these tires give though, and I can live with the rubbing. Like I said, it's really only at full lock, so if I'm pulling a U-turn or something, which doesn't happen often, I'll rub. Not to mention these tires are actually pretty cheap (They go for about 270 new) for a big mud tire.
 
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