97 silverado keys in a 99 f 150??
97 silverado keys in a 99 f 150??
First questuion is will the torsion bar keys from a 97 chevy silverado 1500 fit in my 99 f 150, both 4x4. And my second question is it going reasonably drop me lower? And bring the chev higher? (worth the swap?) Thanks guys
Ummm ive heard of people swapping the Torsion Bar Adjustment keys from Chevys into Fords but not sure the point.
Maybe they are indexed better to get more lift? Not really goodfor the suspension.
Maybe they are indexed better to get more lift? Not really goodfor the suspension.
i put a set of pord keys on a buddys chevy, lifted it bout 1"-2". I would assume that it would lower the ford similarly.
and oh yeah... the chevy looked good but ride like ****
and oh yeah... the chevy looked good but ride like ****
Last edited by SouthernStyle05; Oct 15, 2008 at 10:14 PM.
the chev will be able to crank his bars higher, and you'll be able to drop yours lower. i would also swap the adjuster nuts/bolts as well. both of you will need an alignment afterwards. is that the effect you are looking for?
Last edited by minimonster17; Oct 16, 2008 at 05:08 PM.
so your saying its going to ride like crap? I have heard its going to ride the same but lower, and to match the rear end by taking out the 2 inch blocks and getting lowered shocks and ill have 2inch cheap front and rear drop.
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the chevy will ride stiffer if he cranks his bars fully w/ the ford keys. wandell, he wants to lower his truck as much as he can, and can achieve a lower stance using the chevy keys as opposed to the oem.
ok im assuming you understand how torsion springs work... the "spring pressure" is accually acheived from the twisting pressure on the torsion bar.
The ford keys on the chevy already creates more spring pressure and then by cranking the adjusting bolts up will increase this even more. Therefore raising the truck up, and also greatly increasing the spring pressure. Makes it so that the suspension has very little "up travel" and thus creating an uncomfortable ride... great look though
Now for the ford. I have not had first hand experience with this situation but if the effects are equaly as dramatic then you will acheive the look you are going for but will somehow sacrifice ride quality. i think.
I am VERY interested in how this works out though. keep us posted
good luck,
SouthernStyle
The ford keys on the chevy already creates more spring pressure and then by cranking the adjusting bolts up will increase this even more. Therefore raising the truck up, and also greatly increasing the spring pressure. Makes it so that the suspension has very little "up travel" and thus creating an uncomfortable ride... great look though

Now for the ford. I have not had first hand experience with this situation but if the effects are equaly as dramatic then you will acheive the look you are going for but will somehow sacrifice ride quality. i think.

I am VERY interested in how this works out though. keep us posted
good luck,
SouthernStyle
Not trying to flame anyone.......but ya got it backwards SouthernStyle. "Cranking" your bars has no effect what so ever on "pressure". The "pressure" on the bar is the same, no matter what keys, and no matter what height.
When you "crank" your bars, the "up-travel" stays the same. What you loose, is DOWN-travel. And THAT'S what kills the ride.
But back to FRod....you can go down until the rubber bumpstop hits the lower control arm.......with no loss in ride quality.
When you "crank" your bars, the "up-travel" stays the same. What you loose, is DOWN-travel. And THAT'S what kills the ride.
But back to FRod....you can go down until the rubber bumpstop hits the lower control arm.......with no loss in ride quality.
Not trying to flame anyone.......but ya got it backwards SouthernStyle. "Cranking" your bars has no effect what so ever on "pressure". The "pressure" on the bar is the same, no matter what keys, and no matter what height.
When you "crank" your bars, the "up-travel" stays the same. What you loose, is DOWN-travel. And THAT'S what kills the ride.
But back to FRod....you can go down until the rubber bumpstop hits the lower control arm.......with no loss in ride quality.
When you "crank" your bars, the "up-travel" stays the same. What you loose, is DOWN-travel. And THAT'S what kills the ride.
But back to FRod....you can go down until the rubber bumpstop hits the lower control arm.......with no loss in ride quality.
ok, well first off, i never claimed to be a suspension mechanic, i know im not.
secondly, i really am always interested to learn.
not necesarily rubuting what you said, just asking for clarification because apparently i missunderstand how it works.
this is what i thought... with the re-indexed lift keys(in this case, ford keys) the "spring pressure" is increased. and there has to be pressure on these bars or else the front end would fall to the ground. And mechainicly, the adjustment bolts get harder and harder to turn the higher you crank them, thats got to be some kind of pressure. The bars are literally twisted farther at the keys than they were stock, thus creating greater "spring pressure" resulting in increased ride height. Basicly the tortion bars are trying to un-twist their "spring pressure" at the front a-arm downward thus creating the lift. The pressure is actually so great that up-travel almost doesn't exist(put a jack under a-arm and very very little flex before lifting) which makes perfect sense since the suspension pressure has been increased exponentialy.
ok well i wasnt trying to say "this is how it works", just trying to let you know what im thinking abd give you a firm base off which to tell me how it does work.
thanks man,
SouthernStyle


