I just ordered a 6" Fabtech Lift for my 99 F-150 4x4 5.4L Flareside from Alon at Modbargains.com.He gave me a great price and made sure that I got what I wanted,even though I'm in northern Canada,making things difficult for him.Two thumbs up for Modbargains.com.
So I'm gonna install this lift in my driveway,once the snow melts,and I want to be well prepared for the project.If you've installed a lift kit,and have any tips to ease installation,drop 'em off in this thread.
Another question I have is about the balljoints and tierod ends.Should I look at replacing them at the same time.They are not loose and the steering it tight,but if it's all ripped down,is it a good idea to change em out?The truck has 189000kms on original parts.I saw a thread here somewhere about Moog replacement parts and that sparked this question.

 

I think it would be a good idea to replace the ball joints why it is apart. It will save you alot of pain later. I didnt replace my tierod ends though. They are pretty easy to replace later i think. Just have to get an alignment done. Just get some jack stands to give you plenty of room to work. Also have a grinder handy. I had to do a little grinding to get the front crossmember to fit right. I havent heard of anyone else having to do this but it doesnt hurt to be prepared. Spray some lubricating oil in the torsion bars the night before you are going to start to let it loosen them up. The other problem i had was getting the CV axle out of the stock steering knuckle. you could spray a little oil in there too. Cant really think of anything else off the top of my head. It is pretty straight forward and decent instructions. If you have any questions during the install feel free to send me a PM. There are some pics in my gallery of me putting my lift on if you want to check them out.

 

Did you use a special tool for removing the torsion bars?In my shop manual it says you need,what looks something like a gear puller,to remove the tension.

 

i just used a 6" gear puller. It worked fine. I wouldnt waste your money on the special tool.

 

Major problem on the 97-03 are the torsion bars seizing into the lca's so put plenty of PB Blaster or Zep 45 on it because they can be a real pain to get out. If they won't come out then you'll need to remove the torsion rail bolts and air hammer the keys off of torsion bars and just leave them in the lca the whole time. I would suggest using the unloading tool because it's designed to do this job and you can usually rent them from your local 4x4 shop and is much safer than a gear puller. Other than that it's pretty straight forward and just takes some patience.

 

I would choose the Spicer parts over the MOOG. And yes since you are going to be tearing it apart anyway this is the perfect time to do this. Take a close look at your wheel bearing hubs alos. If they have play in them at all this is the perfect time to replace them.

One thing if i recall is when they have you drop the front diff out reinstall it with the skid plate at the same time. For some reason they have you do that a few steps later and you have to take stuff back apart to install the skid plate.

Also do as they suggest nd cut the out tie rod end down. They say you may or may not have to do this but trust me you will so just do it before installing them.

Other than that like the others have said it is pretty straight forward.

Also you can use a simple two jaw gear puller to relieve the tension on the torsion bars you do not need a special tool.

Soak the parts down the night before or even two days prior to starting like these guys suggested.

cletus I also had to do some grinding on mine but only on the driverside

 

Another question I have,
In my shop manual it says upper and lower balljoints are not replaceable,and the whole upper and lower control arm must be replaced.If I install the new arms,using the original positioning of the cam bolt assembly,will the wheel alignment be close?The reason I ask is that the nearest wheel alignment shop to me is about a 2 hour drive.190kms.

And why Spicer over Moog?Are the Spicer parts grease-able?

 

I never replaced ball Joints on mine or tire rods. I did have to cut the tire rods though. I also had gears put in before I put it all back together. I used my special tool for the torsion bars a clamp to remove them2 jaw puller also worked but I grabbed the first thing I thought of.) To get them out of the lca I had to use an 8lb sledge.
To put the torsion bars back on I had to use a hydralic jack and a floor jack.
The only thing special I used for the entire thing was a torque wrench as far as I can remember

 

The lowers are serviceable but the uppers you will need to buy a whole new arm. The Fabtech lift should come with upper control arm cam bolts and those will need to be installed. Not sure i would want to drive two hours with it out of whack. But as long as you get it pretty close and you do not hear tire dragging when you drive you might be OK.

Yes the Spicer joints are greasable. I went Moog once and they wore out faster than the factory joints. Never again will i use them, Spicer makes a great product and it is my preference. I would imagine if you can set the toe with a tape measure you will b good for the drive. Maybe drive with the old tires and wheels on and haul the new set with you to be put on once you arrive at the alignment shop.

 

I also had to cut my tie end rods too. So i would have a cut off wheel handy too. I agree with richard. U may want to think about putting the stock wheels on to drive it to the alignment shop if its that far.

Richard you have a bad a$$ truck.

 

here is a picture of the brackets i had to grind down to get the front crossmember to fit

 

x3 for the tie rods. although mine was mostly on the driver side?

 

Thank You

I actually had to grind on the control arm bushing sleeve. No matter what i tried i could not get the driver side lower control, arm back in so out came the grinder.

 

Another question I have come up with is in regards to lower control arm bushings.Should I replace them?Any suggestions on aftermarket poly bushing kits?Maybe for upper and lowers?

 

If your going to do that I would suggest either Prothane or Energy Suspension