I have a new XLT 4x4 S/C LongBed Heavy Duty...I didn't want the HD, but couldn't get the longbed without it.

The nose is really low with the HD leafs on the rear.

I'm thinking the AutoSpring 2.5 is in order, but spent some time looking at the top ball joint on the upper control arm, and I don't think that angle would be a good idea.

I've seen lift kits, but dont really want a complete kit, and I'm not really an off-roader. Is there just a front end kit-with maybe different upper control arms, and maybe I would add the AutoSpring 2.5?

What ever the answer, it should be bulletproof-I dont breakdown, and you cant make me....

 

The debate rages on about the UCA balljoint angles from leveling kits. Lots of guys run it with no problems. I guess its a matter of what your comfortable with. Total Chaos makes an UCA with spherical ball joints but there pricey. Personally, I didnt like the angles and went with a 4" Rancho lift after a little while with 2" AS.

 

I like many others on this site are running the AS 2.5" with no issues at all. If you plan on hauling anything, I'd recommend the AS 2" instead. If you are set on the 2.5", then I would also get a 1.5" AAL for the rear. I think as long as you are not doing any serious off road driving or really large tires and wheels, you'll be fine.

 

The way it looks in the picture if he runs AAL in the rear of that thing he'll be hitting the underside of bridges.

 

I am actually about to order that AS 2" after talking with hivoltagefx4 about his. This however is the first I have heard about people worrying about the angles, although I haven't researched allot on this topic. My truck will most likely never tow anything and will most likely never see off road duty, so hopefully I will be ok.

-Brian

 

Never tow and never off road? I wouldnt worry about angles at all.

 

I think that the problems a lot of people have with balljoints/UCA may be in part caused by off road driving, larger tires and wheels with large offsets. These factors could contribute to premature failure, but I could be wrong? My truck only sees local and highway driving. I am planning on changing my wheels real soon, but probably will not go with a much larger tire than I already have. There are just to many people here that have not had issues for a long time. That's the reason I decided to go with the AS. I can't stand the rake that the F-150's have and was willing to add the AS 2.5" I've now had my truck for 6 months and I've had no problems at all. I love how it looks and don't regret my decision.

 

Looking on the AS website and followed the link to the eBay auctions but I don't see the 2" kit that I expected. I do see an aluminum kit that seems to be made by someone else. This is a little confusing? I just used the email address on the website to try and get some clarification on this....

-Brian

 

Brian,

I would give them a call and order it direct from them instead of trying to go through their eBay link.

 

Oh okay, I was thinking that was my only option. I'm going to do this right now! Thanks

-Brian

 

FYI Auto Spring had some legal issues with another company on e-bay so e-bay took the spacers off. You can still get them by ordering directly. Same price as e-bay and free shipping, can't beat that.
If anyone needs any advice about the install, just ask me. I did mine last week at the local hobbey shop on base and had no problems and I don't even work on cars at all. Learned all I needed to know from you guys. Impact gun was a must. Very straight forward install. Took me a few hours...would have took me less time if it weren't for a very atractive female wrenching in the next bay over. I too got the spindle to break free from the upper ball joint by smacking it with a ball peen hammer. Use a big one. I was scared at first to hit it but all was ok and it worked. Hit the nuckle where it curves toward th ball joint. A few swings...and presto. Be careful of the break lines though. Don't rip them out. I also heard of some people haveing issues connecting the knuckle back to the uca. I too had an issue. Just jack the lower controll arm untill the truck starts to lift off the jack stand and climb into the wheel well and push down on the upper controll arm while holding the nut in the other hand and start the nut and use the nut to pull the lca the wrest of the way up. Be careful not to tare those boots. Thats about it. Got my allignment today and drives like a dream. well I gotta go earn more mods. Later everyone.

 

You guys need to take another look...I have the HD Package, and I've had two S/C Longbed 4x's (non HD's) in the past, and the rear was not that high...The 2.5 is only for my condition...if I had a regular 150, I'd probably go with a 1.5.

Even with a 2.5-the rear will be higher, so unless I had a 5th wheel hooked up, the rear wont drop as much as a standard 150.

What I want to know is...is there an A-Arm or Ball joint retrofit that makes the geometry a little better looking?


Copied from the Ford Chassis Builders Spec Sheet:

Heavy Duty Payload Package—Includes:
—GVWR—8200-lbs.
—Axle, rear—5300-lbs. (10.25 ring gear) and 4.10 axle ratio
—GAWR/springs, front—4050-lbs./4050-lbs.
— GAWR/springs, rear—4800-lbs./4900-lbs.
—Frame upgrade (.150” rail thickness)
—Super Engine Cooling
—72 amp-hr-650 CCA battery
—9-channel (18-plate) oil-to-water auxiliary transmission oil cooler
—LT245/70Rx17D BSW all-terrain tires (five)
—17?? x 7.5?? J 7-lug steel wheels