Ball Joint Question
no u dont... im not sure if the ford is like the chevy where the upper balljoint is permanently in the a arm. so chevy u just buy left and right a arms with the balljoints in them. lowers are pretty simple too... remember to put them in the freezer over night. this contracts the new ones .(makes them smaller) and they are a little smoother going in.
Originally Posted by racerf150man
no u dont... im not sure if the ford is like the chevy where the upper balljoint is permanently in the a arm. so chevy u just buy left and right a arms with the balljoints in them. lowers are pretty simple too... remember to put them in the freezer over night. this contracts the new ones .(makes them smaller) and they are a little smoother going in.
The uppers are permanantly in the A arm. For about the same price as just the ball joints it makes the job a whole lot easier. Moog, I believe, sells the A arms with joints that are removeable and replaceable with Moog parts, but chances are you wont have to change them again.
You do not "HAVE" to unload the torsion bars, but it sure helps.
Axle shafts can be removed, but this is not necessary if you are only changing the ball joints. Now, if you are going to replace the wheel bearings, NOW IS THE TIME!!! Use the procedure below to save a few $$.
Goto Autozone and rent/borrow a two hook puller (actually they have a three hook puller that can be converted to two) and their ball joint press.
Mark the current location of your adjuster and adjster bolt. Put the two jaw puller on the torsion arm and crossmember and release the pressure on the adjuster. Now remove the adjuster bolt and threaded thingy. then back off of the puller and viola, the pressureis gone from the torsion bar. My book suggested applying some grease to the hex ends of the torsion bar as you re-assemble. they also suggest putting grease on the top of the adjuster too.
*MONEY SAVING TIP*
The upper control arm and ball joint are frequently a one piece unit. call around and get prices on the upper control arm. Then goto http://www.advanceautoparts.com/ and print out their cheapest upper control arm (TRW) and take the printout to an autoparts store that will match prices. I went to Oreilley and got their MOOG upper control arm for the TRW price.
R&R the upper control arm and use the press to remove and replace (R&R) the lower ball joint.
Schedule an alignment with a garage close by. I would also suggest rotating your rear tires to the front before the alignment. Your rear tires should have less 'alignment wear' than the front.
Axle shafts can be removed, but this is not necessary if you are only changing the ball joints. Now, if you are going to replace the wheel bearings, NOW IS THE TIME!!! Use the procedure below to save a few $$.
Goto Autozone and rent/borrow a two hook puller (actually they have a three hook puller that can be converted to two) and their ball joint press.
Mark the current location of your adjuster and adjster bolt. Put the two jaw puller on the torsion arm and crossmember and release the pressure on the adjuster. Now remove the adjuster bolt and threaded thingy. then back off of the puller and viola, the pressureis gone from the torsion bar. My book suggested applying some grease to the hex ends of the torsion bar as you re-assemble. they also suggest putting grease on the top of the adjuster too.
*MONEY SAVING TIP*
The upper control arm and ball joint are frequently a one piece unit. call around and get prices on the upper control arm. Then goto http://www.advanceautoparts.com/ and print out their cheapest upper control arm (TRW) and take the printout to an autoparts store that will match prices. I went to Oreilley and got their MOOG upper control arm for the TRW price.
R&R the upper control arm and use the press to remove and replace (R&R) the lower ball joint.
Schedule an alignment with a garage close by. I would also suggest rotating your rear tires to the front before the alignment. Your rear tires should have less 'alignment wear' than the front.
No removal of torsion bars is not necessary for ball joints. Just did mine and can't remember exactly what I paid for all four but it was close to $160 with new upper A-arms and greaseable ball joints. They upper A-arms cost about $50 a piece and come with ball joints and bushings. While I was there I replaced my tie rod ends because they were severely worn. The inner/outer tie rod ends and sleeves cost about $150 which seems ridiculous but moog and durajunk are the same price so I guess that's what they go for. As far as tools needed your going to need a ball joint removal tool (press) if you don't have one autozone has them to loan. A half inch drive set with a 21mm deep well and a 21mm shallow well, A 36mm or a 1 7/16inch socket for the spindle nut, 1/2 socket and I think 18mm socket for brakes, 12point 12mm socket for cv removal and 15mm socket for hub removal. A 12 pack off your favorite beer and a few hours of your time. That's off the top of my head but should be pretty accurate give or take just to give you a basic idea of what you need. Hope that helps. Good luck!


