Update on Tosrion Bar Hell
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MO
Update on Tosrion Bar Hell
Finally got the new torsion bars in! 
Not sure who else has done this switch, but I had to apply A LOT of heat to both the bars to finally get them to turn loose from the lower control arms.... also a lot of beating with a BFH.
At any rate, it's done and I am very happy. The greater spring rate of the #7700 torsion bars is nice. No body roll when going around corners, and the front end really supports the weight of my winch and winch mount better. I also managed to get quite a bit of twist out of the new bars (without worrying about them breaking now!) and added about 2.5 inches of lift. Leveled the truck out real nice.
Just wanted to report a positive experience in case anyone else is thinking of doing this operation to their truck.
Take care.
Not sure who else has done this switch, but I had to apply A LOT of heat to both the bars to finally get them to turn loose from the lower control arms.... also a lot of beating with a BFH.
At any rate, it's done and I am very happy. The greater spring rate of the #7700 torsion bars is nice. No body roll when going around corners, and the front end really supports the weight of my winch and winch mount better. I also managed to get quite a bit of twist out of the new bars (without worrying about them breaking now!) and added about 2.5 inches of lift. Leveled the truck out real nice.
Just wanted to report a positive experience in case anyone else is thinking of doing this operation to their truck.
Take care.
Last edited by DSN46; Apr 10, 2005 at 06:44 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
How do I know which bars my truck has? I have thought of upgrading to the heavier ones as well beacuse I have a heavy full replacement bumper on the front that is about 400 pds. My window sticker said it has the 6500# gvwr pkg but not sure that means anything on the front end. The bigger bars are probley for a snowplow package or something. Is there any way to tell and where did you buy yours at? Gordon
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MO
I don't think you have the Snow Plow Package.
You can tell by getting under the truck, then look at the torsion bar cross member. If there are three holes that measure 5" back from where the cross member is currently attached, then you don't have the #7700 bars. The holes are put there at the factory for those who special order the SNow Plow Package.
If you don't already have them, here are the part numbers:
Passenger Side: F75Z5B326-KB
Drivers Side: F75Z5B327-KB
You can get them for $75.00 each at dealership.
Was well worth the money in my opinion!
Hope this helps.
You can tell by getting under the truck, then look at the torsion bar cross member. If there are three holes that measure 5" back from where the cross member is currently attached, then you don't have the #7700 bars. The holes are put there at the factory for those who special order the SNow Plow Package.
If you don't already have them, here are the part numbers:
Passenger Side: F75Z5B326-KB
Drivers Side: F75Z5B327-KB
You can get them for $75.00 each at dealership.
Was well worth the money in my opinion!
Hope this helps.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Originally posted by Tiger3200
im trying to do the same thing but only to change the torsion keys. How did you get the torsion bars to even budge, let alone come out?? Thanks for your help
im trying to do the same thing but only to change the torsion keys. How did you get the torsion bars to even budge, let alone come out?? Thanks for your help
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MO
Like I said in the opening post, lots of heat on the lower control arm end!! I'll bet I had the passanger side glowing red two or three times before I could beat it out. It's a chore, but you feel REAL good when you do it yourself. 
By the way, and I think Wandell agrees with me on this one, if you are going to put the heavier torsion bars in, then you dont need key-ways that are clocked differently. You should be able to crank the new bars up with stock keyways as much as you will want. Remember, if you go too high (as you could easily do with the re-clocked keyways), you will wear out your CV shafts much quicker..... and they are very expensive.
Hope this helps.
By the way, and I think Wandell agrees with me on this one, if you are going to put the heavier torsion bars in, then you dont need key-ways that are clocked differently. You should be able to crank the new bars up with stock keyways as much as you will want. Remember, if you go too high (as you could easily do with the re-clocked keyways), you will wear out your CV shafts much quicker..... and they are very expensive.
Hope this helps.