Looking for some info on upper and lower ball joints. Been quoted a price of 50.00 a piece for the uppers and 30.00 a piece for the lowers and was gonna do the install my self Ive never dont ball joints on a 150 before are they difficult and is there any special tools i need besides a puller any tips or suggestions would be appreciated

 

For the parts, I would get some that have fittings...you can get some MOOG ball joints from here: https://www.rockauto.com/applet3.html

Moog ball joints are supposed to be pretty much the best ones available (and they arent too much more than you were quoted...although I heard that site charges high for shipping).
Not sure on the process, never done it myself. You could buy a Haynes manual.

 

Just purchased all the parts from a local guy still not sure about the bottom joint think it needs pressed in dont know if can pound it in or if need to take it to a machine shop

 

Most retail auto part chain stores (Autozone, etc) have a "loan-a-tool" program. In these programs, you leave a deposit and borrow the tool from them. You get your deposit back when you bring the tool back. They should have the tool for the job. It looks like a huge C clamp with different fittings and allows you to press the lower ball joint in/out (they will give you tips on using the tools they have). Of course, the upper balljoint/control arm is removed as a unit. Be sure to get an alignment immediately after replacing all the ball joints.

......oh yeah, remember that BEFORE you replace the ball joints, you will be performing the proceedure to access the front coil springs. Meaning, you need to be very careful when loosening the "castle nut" that holds the lower balljoint/control arm and spindle together. For safety reasons, YOU DO NOT want to totally unscrew the lower ball joint castle nut, until the front coil spring tension is removed AND it is safer to hook a cable or chain to the coil spring and to something solid in a manner so that, after the castle nut is loosened and the tension is released (some use a hammer to "break it free", I prefer a two arm puller), the coil spring does not fly out and harm someone (although, sometimes there is very little tension, but be safe than sorry). It also helps to have two (2) jacks (as well as jack stands) for this proceedure as the front frame and lower control arm should be lifted and lowered at different heights thoughout this proceedure. A Haynes manual will describe the process in detail. Good luck.

 

is it possible to change the lowere ball joint without pulling the front axles out on a 4x4

 

Not Possible. The hub will not drop down far enough to fall of the lower ball joint. Axles have to come out.

 

took me about 2 and half hours to do uppers and lower ball joints think the hardest thing was finding a shop to do the alignment on a sunday morning. The ball joint press i borrowed from my local parts store made the projest very easy thanks to everyone for the suggestions and tips.

 

Hi guys;

Anyone use Spicer chassis / suspension components? Specifically Ball Joints. I was told that they are at least as good as, or even superior to, Moog. Cost is about the same up here in CanuckLand, where we get corn-holed on price for pretty much everything... ;-))

BTW, it seems that no matter who makes' 'em, the uppers ( the ones already mounted in new control arms), DO NOT have grease fittings, while the lowers from Moog and Spicer, do. Something to do with the upper ball joints not being load-bearing units.

What's up with that?

cheers!

 

Moog upper ball joints/control arms from rockauto.com DO have greasable upper ball joints...and they are very nice, heavy duty pieces.

 

yes i just got a new set on my truck they seem ok and do have zerks what fun puttin them and ball jonts,pitman arm3 1/2 hours but did rebuild front end.MW.

 

I am also getting ready to rebuild my front end. Have all the parts. All Moog all with zerks. I am going a step further and replacing the bushings also. I have taken the front end apart to the point of taking the steering knuckle off. the bolts holding the knucKle on look like a large torx driver. Do I need a special socket here or not? Do I even need to take the knuckle off to replace the ball joints? WHen I take the knuckle off what can I hurt? Looking in the ABS sensor hole is appears to be pretty clean in there. Lots of grease but very clean. What seals are there behind the knuckle? I have a Haynes manual but they do not have enough pictures for me to feel comfotable taking it apart just yet.

Oh yeah 97 expy 4x4

Lou

 

The "huge C clamp" that AutoZone rented to you. Did it have a name? Does anyone know where I can rent one in Canada? Is there something else I can use? How much force do I need to get the ball joint out of the control arm? Thanks

 

I used a BFH to pop out the lower ball joint. Jack up the front end and support it on jack stands. Follow the shop manual instructions for the removal of the lower A arm but do not unbolt it. Just get the knuckle out of the way. You will need a spring compressor on 4x2s and on 4x4s you will have to release the tension on the torsion bar. By placing a jack under the A arm you can pound the ball joint with the BFH till it pops out. Not mentionned in any manual is the fact that there is a clip holding the ball joint in place. Remove the clip before pounding or it won't pop out. To re install you slide the ball joint into the hole and support it with a socket that will fit over the stud and boot. With a jack under the socket that is supporting the ball joint you pound on the a arm till the ball joint pops back into place. If you have access to a puller you will not need a BFH. In Canada I couldn't find a loan a tool place that had the required the puller. Hence the BFH.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier