I just replaced my steering gear/box this weekend. The old one decided it was cool to leak all my PS fluid out the bottom. Now when I put my truck into a hard corner...I have to put some mustard into the wheel to get her to turn. What gives? Does the new gear need some time to break in?



Thanks in advance.

 

I know this isn't a answer to your question, but I am looking at replacing my steering gear box. I have a '97 F150 4x4. My question is how difficult was it to replace? Do you also have a 4x4? Any tips or suggestions ? And where did you get your replacement?

Thank in advance for your responses.

 

Did you attempt to adjust the screw that sets directly on top of the gear box? If that is adjusted too tight (1/4th of a turn clockwise from the factory setting, can be TOO MUCH), it will be hard to turn the steering wheel and the wheels can lock up on you and you can..............DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!

In regards to the adjustment screw, you could mark where the adjuster nut is located in relation to the gear box surface, then loosen the nut, then put a Allen wrench into the top of the adjuster screw and TURN COUNTER CLOCK wise to LOOSEN it. You would want to turn the screw counter clock wise NO MORE THAN ABOUT 1/8 - 1/4 of ONE TURN, then TIGHTEN down the adjuster nut and then try it with the truck running. Try this several times or have a trained tech. adjust it for you.

It could have been set wrong from the factory or someone has mis-adjusted it or it is defective.

Or, did you re-fill your powersteering fluid to the correct level? Or is fluid leaking from the system? Is one of the hoses kinked?

No, the gear does not have a break-in period.

 

Okay…..I’ve tried to reply twice, and both times it’s rejected my post.

One more time. I replaced the steering gear myself. It cost $200 from Napa, with a $225 core charge. I ran into my first problem because I needed a pitman arm puller. According to the Haynes manual, you have to separate the pitman arm from the center link. Once I got the puller, I ran into another problem. I could not get the ball joint to separate from the center link until I unbolted two of the three 16mm (I think) bolts holding the steering gear to the frame. This allowed the assembly to rotate and gave the joint the needed play to pop free. The connections running fluid to and from the steering gear are 16mm. I used a flare wrench on those. The nut holding the pitman arm to the steering gear is 34mm. I could not remove the pitman arm from the steering gear. Too much corrosion. The pinch bolt holding the steering shaft to the steering gear is 14mm. If you need any other help, let me know. I’ll do what I can. Yes, it is a four by four.

As for the adjustable screw, I didn’t notice it. I’ll have to look into that. I drove it around some yesterday. The steering when I throw it into a hard corner is sporadic. Almost like one second it’s got fluid, then the next second it’s out, then it’s back. I’m wondering if I still have air in the system. I have checked several times for leaks, but I will check the lines for kinks. I’m also going to bleed the system again. Thanks for the input.

 

If it's only hard to turn when you turn the steering wheel quickly in either direction then I would suspect that either air is still in the system/low on fluid or possibly that the belt is loose and slipping when you really crank on the steering wheel. BTW, Crown vic police cruisers were problematic for that very same thing.

The air should bleed itsef out over time. The first time you start it after the powers steering system has been opened up and fluid drained and then refilled, the fluid turns milky with all the air bubbles that make it foam up. When it sits with the engine off afterwards all those little bubles rise to the top of the resevoir and are purged out of the system. This may take a few times of running and sitting to get all the air out so check the fluid level at least once a day for the first couple of days.

Good luck.

 

Thanks 88blkgtstang for your advice.

I'll most likely R&R the steering gear in early 05 due to lack of funding, unless I win the lotto.

I'll print out your post and if I have any additional questions when I do the swap, I'll look you up. Good luck with the air in your system, I'll keep up on this post to see how you were able to resolve the issue.

Rock on!

 

Sorry to drag this back to the top, but my steering gear box went from working fine to streaming fluid instantly this morning. The leak is from the pitman arm shaft seal.

Couple of questions for you gurus:

1) If you can keep fluid in it, the power steering feels normal. Can I just fix the seal or do I need to replace the entire gearbox?

2) Are seal kits available form Ford. Advanced Auto didn't have anything available, just a rebuilt box for the low price of my first born child.

3) The failure seemed instant. One moment it was fine, the next it was peeing fluid. Could it have been caused by something in the P/S system such as over pressure? The area has been a little wet for some time, but no leaks. I'm surpised it went from just a little wetted to streaming fluid in no time, but I'll admit I wasn't paying much attention until I saw the puddle of fluid.

Thanks in advance!

 

1:Yes, you can fix the box with a pitman shaft seal kit, but if you have any miles on it, just replace the whole thing. How much are they asking for a box?
2:Yes. If the pressure relief valve in the pump takes a dump on you, all sorts of problems can occur. BTW, the PRV is only available WITH the pump. Most people don't realize that the pressure hose is actually a flexible metal line covered with a hose crimped to hard lines. P.S. pumps generate incredible pressure.

SL

 

Thanks snappy,


The truck will be just over 100,000 miles before I pick it up, but I'll be going with the shaft seal kit. Because of work and the fact that its at my parents house 150 miles away, I decided to take it to a local mechanic who will replace the seal. If he sees any abnormal play, I'm sure he'll let me know (my father will be there helping him out). Thanks again!

 

I looked for a seal kit from every auto supply store I could think of, and no one carried it for my 98 F150. It's too late at this point for me, but where can you get a seal kit?

I paid $2xx.00 for the box, and had to put down an equal amount for a core.

 

FYI,

Another option to consider if anyone has problems with their steering gear box.......

Instead of trying to put a seal kit in it, or paying labor charges or having down/shop time or paying factory prices and core charges, go to www.car-part.com and find a replacement.

I just did a search and found 29 pages of 97-2003 F150 steering gear boxes......found many 2001-2002 versions for $50 with no core charge. They generally come with the pitman arm still attached as well (ask for it).

I have replaced two steering gear boxes on my 99' F150. I tried an 03' F150 version that was less than $100 and had the pitman arm attached with only a $25 core charge. My current version is the re-valved 03' Lightning version that had the pitman arm attached. It was less than $300 and no core charge (although it took over 6 months of monitoring the site to find one). The 03' re-valved Lightning version is over $700 with a core charge (they will not accept a standard F150 version as a core) from a dealership! I also got the entire coupler/lower/upper steering shaft for the re-valved Lightning box.

Make sure that the pitman arm is still attached. If so, you simply bolt the box to the frame, bolt the linkage to the pitman arm, screw in the hydr. hoses and tighten the coupler pinchbolt (make sure that the wheels are pointing straight, mark the position of the coupler/steering shaft before removing the original version and secure the steering wheel).

 

Thanks for the tips.

Had to replace the box anyway because the shaft was rusted and pitted. Same thing as 88, I had to pay $200 for the box and core.

 

I know it's not chicken feed, but $200 is a small price to pay for the amount of work it does, not to mention the safety factor involved. Money well spent IMO.

SL

 

Forgot to reply. Check your local parts store. Lower pitman shaft kit: Gates #349600, Omega #2016, Edelman #8772.

SL