Anyone lowering their 97-03 f150 with coil springs needs to check out this web page. It's instruction on how to replace your springs without needing a spring compressor or disconnecting the control arm joints. After following the instructions, my stock springs just lifted out.

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/f150/Dropkit.htm

I have seen threads on this site that make this proceedure seem complicated. These instructions made it easy for me, so I felt obligated to make sure others can benefit from it.

I just completed my 2/3 drop, replacing the front and rear springs and new shocks in about 5 hours.

Thanks, Baseline Suspensions.

 

Great pics. However, I would review the pic. and related explanation for removing the front coil springs. As well as, there is a simpler way to remove them. Yet, if this works and is safe, thats great. However, I think it is NOT SAFE. As well as, the placement of the jackstands under the front sway bar, is NOT SAFE.

The pic. describes the removal of the upper control arms frame bolts (caster/camber bolts). YET, I see no mention of unbolting the lower control arm ball joint nor the use of spring compressiors.

The spring is under tension. Therefore, if you are going to remove the upper control arm frame bolts with no spring compressior, you could be subject to a part and or the spring becoming a flying weapon of death!!!!!!!! Be safe!

A simpler and safer way to remove the front coils is to do the same proceedures, EXCEPT, you would NOT put the jack stands under the anti-sway bars and you would NOT unbolt the upper control arm frame bolts (camber/caster bolts).

You would place jackstands and or jack under the FRAME. You would also leave the the upper control arm frame bolts (camber/caster bolts) in place AND LOOSEN the lower control arm ball joint nut, making sure to leave the ball joint nut screwed on the ball joint bolt threads.

The nut should be flush with the bottom of the bolt or have it screwed on a few threads more than that.

Then use a puller to unbind the ball joint tapered bolt from the hole in the spindle.

When you do so, the spindle will slam into the nut due to the spring tension.

However, since you just loosened the nut but left it screwed onto the bolt, it will go no further than the nut.

Then you can remove the nut, then lift the upper control arm/spindle/brake rotor assembly down and over the balljoint tapered bolt, then out, then up on top of the lower control arm (using two floor jacks to raise and lower the truck frame and the control arm makes this very easy to do).

Then you can remove the spring and replace it.

However, in addition to the proceedures I described, it is always safest to use a spring compressor and tie a cord to the spring and to something stable, so that, if it does fly out, it will not make contact with you. Sometimes, there is very little spring tension and sometimes there is alot of tension. You do not want to find out the hard way.

I am not an expert, you should seek expert advise (and the owner of that webpage should have a disclaimer if they do not have on already) concerning these modifications. Therefore, how do I come to my own conclusions about these proceedures? One day, when I was experimenting with cutting some stock coils, I removed and replaced the coils (including putting the tire back on) a total of 12 times in one day!!!!!!!!!!!!!! .........yeah, I'm nuts!

 

Hey, where did you get the stuff to lower your truck? Im assuming you used coils in the front, but what about the back? Did you use new springs back there too or shackles? Ive been looking for a 3 inch rear drop so if you could give me any info on it I would really like it. Thanks

 

For a 3 inch lowering in back, you can:

1. Replace stock hangers with 2 inch lowering hangers and a 2 inch lowering shackle on the 1 inch lowering setting. Although, I have completed this type of lowering on two late model F150s BellTech and DJM kits), it is a major pain, to remove the stock hanger rivets!!!!!!!!!

2. Lowering leaf springs. Can get leaf springs that are good for EITHER a 1, 2, 3 or 4 inch lowering. Could easily use lowering shackles with them as well. MUCH easier, but your payload is reduced.

3. 3 inch lowering shackles. I think you have to cut a notch in your frame ("C-Notch") or you will bottom out.


I have DJM lowering hangers and shackles. I like the bushings in the DJM shackles, but It seems that Belltech makes a thicker guage hanger.

The DJM Toxic shocks are terrible. BellTech Nitro Active shocks are much better. Doestech nitro shocks give better control, but are a bit harsh. Bilstiens are mushy. Ranchos do not offer a lowering shock.

Belltech front coil springs are the best mass produced coils. DJM coils are okay. Spring tech give the perfect lowering height, but are too mushy. Roushlow custom coil springs are suppose to be the best.

 

Link to 3 inch drop Leaf springs:

http://www.racerwheel.com/handling-s...-belltech.html

 

That link does not mention disconnecting the ABS sensor on some later models. While that is a pretty good procedure, I would also not recommend putting the jack stands under the sway bar. I will also say that it is entirely safe to not use a spring compressor on our trucks. I've done it several times with no problems except my procedure is different. I loosend the upper or lower ball joint, keeping the nut on the threads, drop the jack, then whack the spindle with a sledge until the joint pops loose. Jack the a-arm back up, take off the castle nut and then slowly lower the arm. The spring will come out easily.

 

In the last year in a half, I have removed and replaced springs a total of over 20 times due to trial and error, spring replacement, control arm/bushing replacement, performing lowering to two (2) identical trucks, etc. ........remember I'm crazy. In all those times, I have never used a spring compressor nor a safety strap. Infact, I have found that, with LOWERING springs, MOST of the time, they generally are stuck to the upper spring pad or almost fall out, with very little, if any tension, after I use a steering linkage puller to break the binding from the lower ball joint and spindle. However, I have found that Stock springs have tension (they are longer). With jackstands under the frame and only loosening the lower ball joint "castle" nut until the tension is released, I can place a jack under the lower control arm and perform a spring replacement easily and safely in accordance with my crazy standards for safety.

Having said all that, my training will not allow me to make the same statement that I quoted from you, to others that are less familar with these procedures. I would rather see people error on the side of safety, rather than get hit in the head and blame "iron horse". haha!