Ball joint Replacement procedure?
Hey Guys,
I have to replace the Lower Ball Joint on my 1998 F150 supercab 4x4. I have gone through most of the posts on this site and it seems pretty straight foward.
But what I would like to know is what parts exactly do i have to disconect to accomplish this, is it as simple as removeing the outer tierod and poping the ball joint out of the wheel hub or is there more to it?
Any help would be appreciated and details would be great.
I have to replace the Lower Ball Joint on my 1998 F150 supercab 4x4. I have gone through most of the posts on this site and it seems pretty straight foward.
But what I would like to know is what parts exactly do i have to disconect to accomplish this, is it as simple as removeing the outer tierod and poping the ball joint out of the wheel hub or is there more to it?
Any help would be appreciated and details would be great.
Remove the tire, the Swaybar link on the lower control arm and then remove the nut and seperate the ball joint from the Knuckle. Position the knuckle aside, out of the way, and then remove the snap ring so you can press the ball joint out of the control arm. Support the lower control arm and pound the shït out of the ball joint so it will come out of the control arm hole. Hit the ball joint square on the head or you will damage the control arm. To replace it push it into the hole in the control arm and using a socket, of a size smalll enough to fit the ball joint but big and deep enough to clear the stud on the ball joint, placed on the jack you hit the control arm. The Arm goes down and becasue the ball joint is supported by the socket/jack it doesn't move. This drives the ball joint into the hole in the arm. They you use the snap ring supplied with the ball joint and reassemble the joint onto the knuckle tighten the castellated nut to 83-112 ft/lbs and insert the cotter pin. NOTE: With the ball joint you should get a new nut, cotter pin and a snap ring. If you have a grease fitting it may need to be screwed in. Then grease the fitting. NEVER BACK OFF THE CASTELLATED NUT. Torque it tio about 100 lbs and then continue tightning it till the holes line up for the cotter pin.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
PS pound. pound and pound some more. The joint will not pop out unless you pound and pound.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
PS pound. pound and pound some more. The joint will not pop out unless you pound and pound.
I'm considering doing the same replacement on my 2001 SCrew. I looked at it last night, and it doesn't appear that there's enough room to get the ball joint out of the spindle. The drive axle boot looks like it will get in the way as you try to lift the a-arm/balljoint out of the spindle.
Anybody know for sure that it can be done without messing with the axles????
Thanks.
Anybody know for sure that it can be done without messing with the axles????
Thanks.
Last edited by tgienger; Aug 5, 2004 at 04:36 PM.
I had to cut the studs on mine becasue I was too lazy to push the stud up into the ball joint to make room for it to clear the axle. A worn ball joint allows the stud to drop out of the ball. A few seconds with a zip blade took care of any clearance problems.
The new one went in without a problem.
The new one went in without a problem.
I just wanted to say thanks for the advice and the tips.
I borrowed al little frome each of you. I had to cut the old ball joint on the way out for easy removal, and on the way in I first pressed in a new ball joint, but after realizing that i didnt have enough room to clear the axle boot, ended up useing the slip in and pound method. I pounded and pounded and pounded until it went in!
Thanks agin for the help
I borrowed al little frome each of you. I had to cut the old ball joint on the way out for easy removal, and on the way in I first pressed in a new ball joint, but after realizing that i didnt have enough room to clear the axle boot, ended up useing the slip in and pound method. I pounded and pounded and pounded until it went in!
Thanks agin for the help
Last edited by gman007; Aug 9, 2004 at 11:22 PM.



