ProComp spindle and add a leaf pics?
ProComp spindle and add a leaf pics?
I am looking for pics or info on ProComp 3" Lift using spindles and add a leaf, I just ordered this kit from 4WP and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this kit or even better has pictures of it installed. Thanks !
2002 F-150 Supercrew 4x2
2002 F-150 Supercrew 4x2
Here's a link to my 98 F150 2WD with the Procomp 3" Spindle lift and 2" Fabtech blocks in the rear on 265X75X16 tires. I ordered my kit from 4WP as well but changed out the add-a-leaf that normally comes with the kit and opted for blocks. Add-a-leaf tend to shiften the ride a bit...with the blocks and spindle, the ride is like factory and actually better. You turning radius will improve with the spindles up front. I have basic mechnically skills and very basic tools, but found the kit easy to install. You will need to have your truck aligned once the kit is installed.
Good luck and excellent choice by going with a spindle lift over a body lift or some other lift that would affect the factor ride.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=4397
Good luck and excellent choice by going with a spindle lift over a body lift or some other lift that would affect the factor ride.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=4397
Crane,
Thanks a bunch for the reply...What was the difference in price for blocks over leafs? I went in and talked to the guys and they quoted me a price for kit and install, the price included the spindles, leafs, shocks, shock boots and alignment after install $1096 out the door including tax and labor, how does this sound? I am going in on Thursday so it is not yet too late to swap leafs for blocks but is their a difference in height also? Your truck looks great I am going to put 285/75/16's and will try to get some pics up as soon as I am done.
Thanks again for the reply !!
2002 Supercrew 2wd 4.6L V8
Flowmaster Delta Exhaust
Altezza Chrome Rear Lights
Tinted Windows
Stainless Nerf Bars...More to come!
Thanks a bunch for the reply...What was the difference in price for blocks over leafs? I went in and talked to the guys and they quoted me a price for kit and install, the price included the spindles, leafs, shocks, shock boots and alignment after install $1096 out the door including tax and labor, how does this sound? I am going in on Thursday so it is not yet too late to swap leafs for blocks but is their a difference in height also? Your truck looks great I am going to put 285/75/16's and will try to get some pics up as soon as I am done.
Thanks again for the reply !!
2002 Supercrew 2wd 4.6L V8
Flowmaster Delta Exhaust
Altezza Chrome Rear Lights
Tinted Windows
Stainless Nerf Bars...More to come!
Hunt5877,
I appologize for not responding sooner, but I was away and did not check the board. I've had my kit on for about 2 years now and best I recall there was about $30-$40 difference in cost by buying the parts separately compared to the kit. The individual parts were cheaper. I brought spindles, blocks, and a cam block kit for the alignment. I beleive I paid around $500 for the parts and whatever the alignment was. I later added a set of blisten extended gas shocks for the rear and regular length blisten shocks for the front as the spindle will not affect the stock shock placement. Two inch blocks in the rear level your truck out and give it a nice look. I believe the add-a-leaf is about the same on height in the rear. As I recall, several guys quoted me around $1000-1200 for the kit and installation which included an alignment. It will take several hours to install. So, the price you have is about right or actually better since they are going to provide shocks. This is truly something you can install yourself if you have the time. It looks harder than it is...the right tools will make the job easy. The guys on this board provided me with some excellent detailed instructions and that's what I followed along with a Haynes Repair book to do my install. I am the least mechanically inclined guy on the board probably and I was able to do it. I will see if I can find the old post with the instructions and post it next. Even if you go with someone else to do the install, these instructions are great to make sure everything was installed properly.
I appologize for not responding sooner, but I was away and did not check the board. I've had my kit on for about 2 years now and best I recall there was about $30-$40 difference in cost by buying the parts separately compared to the kit. The individual parts were cheaper. I brought spindles, blocks, and a cam block kit for the alignment. I beleive I paid around $500 for the parts and whatever the alignment was. I later added a set of blisten extended gas shocks for the rear and regular length blisten shocks for the front as the spindle will not affect the stock shock placement. Two inch blocks in the rear level your truck out and give it a nice look. I believe the add-a-leaf is about the same on height in the rear. As I recall, several guys quoted me around $1000-1200 for the kit and installation which included an alignment. It will take several hours to install. So, the price you have is about right or actually better since they are going to provide shocks. This is truly something you can install yourself if you have the time. It looks harder than it is...the right tools will make the job easy. The guys on this board provided me with some excellent detailed instructions and that's what I followed along with a Haynes Repair book to do my install. I am the least mechanically inclined guy on the board probably and I was able to do it. I will see if I can find the old post with the instructions and post it next. Even if you go with someone else to do the install, these instructions are great to make sure everything was installed properly.
Last edited by crain; Jul 13, 2004 at 09:54 PM.
Below are the instructions that one of the guys provide me on this board in 2002. Search for "spindle lift install" dated 11-11-02 under my name CRAIN and you will find further decision on this subject that I think you will find helpful. Good luck. Oh, by the way. I am still planning to go with a 32 or 33 inch tires such as a set of 285/75/16 as you are, but my 31s were brand new when I did the install and still has too much thead left that I cannot justify throwing them away.
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lift install
I installed my lift , and it was pretty tough by myself. I did it one day though. The front was pretty straight forward. Jack up the truck, put the jack stands under the a-arms. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, tie rod, sway bar link, brake line retaining bolt, and upper control arm bolts. Pull the upper a-arm out and seperate the spindle from the a-arms. I used a ball joint tool, pitman arm puller, and a big hammer to knock out the ball joints. The new spindles go on in reverse. The front took about an hour on each side for me, with regular tools, no air tools. The rear was a different story, the blocks were harder to do than the entire front lift. I had to go buy another, taller jack and the tallest jack stands that I could find. What I ended up doing was jacking up the truck as high as I could from under the differential and putting the jack stands under the lowest, most rear point that I could find. This was around the door area where the frame runs parallel to the ground. I put them as far back as I could right before the frame bends up toward the bed. The top of the tailgate of my truck was over my head. Then I used two jacks to lower the axle after I removed the u-bolts. I tried just one, but as I lowered the axle, the driveshaft would cause it to rotate really far and put the springs in a bind. I put one jack under the pinion part of the axle and another under the cover. I lowered them together as low as I could. As I lowered them, I had to manipulate the rear by hand to free it from the springs. With the jacks all the way down, I had about a 1" gap between the axle and springs. I then pushed the axle down, teetering on the jack, and installed the blocks on each side. The new u-bolts were a pain! Unless you have the world's longest socket set, you have to use a wrench. I wish I had a ratchet wrench that big. The whole rear took me several hours. Anyway, I don't know how much installation is at a shop, but if you aren't 100% you can do it, or have somebody that can help you, then you might want them to do it. Hope this helps.
----------------------------------------------------------
lift install
I installed my lift , and it was pretty tough by myself. I did it one day though. The front was pretty straight forward. Jack up the truck, put the jack stands under the a-arms. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, tie rod, sway bar link, brake line retaining bolt, and upper control arm bolts. Pull the upper a-arm out and seperate the spindle from the a-arms. I used a ball joint tool, pitman arm puller, and a big hammer to knock out the ball joints. The new spindles go on in reverse. The front took about an hour on each side for me, with regular tools, no air tools. The rear was a different story, the blocks were harder to do than the entire front lift. I had to go buy another, taller jack and the tallest jack stands that I could find. What I ended up doing was jacking up the truck as high as I could from under the differential and putting the jack stands under the lowest, most rear point that I could find. This was around the door area where the frame runs parallel to the ground. I put them as far back as I could right before the frame bends up toward the bed. The top of the tailgate of my truck was over my head. Then I used two jacks to lower the axle after I removed the u-bolts. I tried just one, but as I lowered the axle, the driveshaft would cause it to rotate really far and put the springs in a bind. I put one jack under the pinion part of the axle and another under the cover. I lowered them together as low as I could. As I lowered them, I had to manipulate the rear by hand to free it from the springs. With the jacks all the way down, I had about a 1" gap between the axle and springs. I then pushed the axle down, teetering on the jack, and installed the blocks on each side. The new u-bolts were a pain! Unless you have the world's longest socket set, you have to use a wrench. I wish I had a ratchet wrench that big. The whole rear took me several hours. Anyway, I don't know how much installation is at a shop, but if you aren't 100% you can do it, or have somebody that can help you, then you might want them to do it. Hope this helps.
Crane,
It never ceases to amaze me how willing others are to help out and provide assistance on this site. You have been a huge help and I really appreciate all the info...believe it or not in the last four days I changed my mind and decided to bite the bullet and go with the ProComp 6" suspension lift. The more I looked I figured I would be upset later if I didn't just get the lift I wanted I also got some great info and pictures from Wandell and my truck should look like his by the time it's done, as far as height goes.
I am going to have it all installed and pay out the a**, you know how it goes the labor is going to be about as much as the kit. Thanks again I will try and get some pics up by friday truck goes in to FWP on Thursday.
It never ceases to amaze me how willing others are to help out and provide assistance on this site. You have been a huge help and I really appreciate all the info...believe it or not in the last four days I changed my mind and decided to bite the bullet and go with the ProComp 6" suspension lift. The more I looked I figured I would be upset later if I didn't just get the lift I wanted I also got some great info and pictures from Wandell and my truck should look like his by the time it's done, as far as height goes.
I am going to have it all installed and pay out the a**, you know how it goes the labor is going to be about as much as the kit. Thanks again I will try and get some pics up by friday truck goes in to FWP on Thursday.
Hunt5877,
Man, the 6 inch spindle lift is the way to go. When you start doing mods to these trucks, you always want more...more heigh, more power, etc. With the addition of 33" tires, you will be glad you went with the 6 inch lift. If I had it to do all over, I would go with the 6 inch. Once you add 33" tires, consider regearing to a set of 4:10 gears. With your 4.6, it will feel sluggish with 33" tires and stock gearing. Note my mods below, with these and the 4.6, you will never be last off the line and you will enjoy your truck even more. My only regret with my mods is that I waited so long to do them.
Man, the 6 inch spindle lift is the way to go. When you start doing mods to these trucks, you always want more...more heigh, more power, etc. With the addition of 33" tires, you will be glad you went with the 6 inch lift. If I had it to do all over, I would go with the 6 inch. Once you add 33" tires, consider regearing to a set of 4:10 gears. With your 4.6, it will feel sluggish with 33" tires and stock gearing. Note my mods below, with these and the 4.6, you will never be last off the line and you will enjoy your truck even more. My only regret with my mods is that I waited so long to do them.
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Crane,
Hey working on my truck...not so much, my patience is nill and I got stuck with wood shop instead of auto tech in high school. Every mod I consider I also need to add the cost of the labor, what are new gears and installation of said gears going to cost me? I ordered the accu-speed speedomter recalibration tool and should receive within 2days. Is their anything else I need to consider replacing or adding to my truck in light of the suspension lift? Should have my truck back in two hours or so...man I'm excited! Thanks for the help buddy!
Hey working on my truck...not so much, my patience is nill and I got stuck with wood shop instead of auto tech in high school. Every mod I consider I also need to add the cost of the labor, what are new gears and installation of said gears going to cost me? I ordered the accu-speed speedomter recalibration tool and should receive within 2days. Is their anything else I need to consider replacing or adding to my truck in light of the suspension lift? Should have my truck back in two hours or so...man I'm excited! Thanks for the help buddy!
The price for gears vary, but you will probably drop $500 or more depending on who you get to do them. I found a reliable Ford Mustang Shop and the guys only charged me $120 for labor. I hate to misquote the price, but I think the Ford Racing gears were around $300. I also believe I have read on the board where guys have paid near a grand to re-gear. Nevertheless, big tires and a stock 4.6 don't go together in my book as well as a 4.6 and new gears. As far as performance, I noticed the single best increase in power with the e' fans and chip, but the combination of intake, e' fan, under drive pulley, cat back, headers, etc. work great on the 4.6. Good luck with your truck and enjoy the future of modifications.
Crain,
Hey lift looks great, thanks again for all the help on this one, I still don't know how to post a link to my gallery but I posted the pics on my gallery check them out and let me know what you think.
Search gallery for hunt5877
Hey lift looks great, thanks again for all the help on this one, I still don't know how to post a link to my gallery but I posted the pics on my gallery check them out and let me know what you think.
Search gallery for hunt5877


