well i really like the ford and only had that problem with it. i guess reading all these posts got me nervous about driving it a long distance. This ford is better than any GM i had.

 

I drive mine cross country all the time, it's only ever broken down once, and that was because of a bad alternator. Not a bad history. I trust this truck more than any other vehicle I've ever driven. Most of the time you hear bad things about them on the forums, simply because people tend not to say anything if all is well.,,,,98

 

I got the letter & had been scared that week by mystical steering problems trying to kill me driving rural roads in Missouri. Within 90 minutes had the idler arm replaced and allignment appointment made for next day.

The only thing I can think of was applying 4WD during a teflon snow storm and applying gas too early before right hub had engaged... >>>BLAM<<< with huge wheel hop. While I avoided certain accident caused by over confident driving habits I wonder what other damage exists....

 

What did it cost to replace your pitman or idler arm and how does the truck drive now?

 

I made a big mistake - I took off the idler arm before I had a replacement. I then had to walk up to the local auto parts store and took what they had in stock which was a Moog arm and cost me $69. I believe I was quoted $115-$140 for the FOMOCO part. That's what I get for tearing into it in someone elses driveway.

The ford arm has allignment dimples which center the bolt-through mount - the moog part lacks them and the arm bracket mount holes are oversize so has alot of variance depending on how it gets tourqed in place.

The geometry between the two arms is similar but since the casting/stampings are different I can't tell if it is identical.

After changing it out I sure noticed a new truck feel to it, but it loosened up after a while. I've got 4,000 miles on it already and seems to be holding up okay but I think one of the bushings, right lower, is muffed up plus too much freeplay elsewhere but I haven't torn into it yet.

I think I will be purchasing the ford idler arm once I commit to buying new tie-rods and bushings; kinda all depends on finding a nearby dealer who will give fleet / wholesale price instead of retail..

 

I had a similar problem. I filled out a customer claim form on this site. You might want to check it out http://www.tierodlitigation.com/

 

quick question...
went to pep boys to have all 4 (inner and outer) tie rods replaced. Asked for MOOG because obviously its the top choice around here, and they didnt stock it. said they could get them for me but it would double to price. THAT SUCKED. so then they say they use PERFECT CIRCLE - anybody heard of those? they dont have grease zerks or grease fittings(i think those are the same thing though) and so i was bummed i couldn't get the ones everybody talks so highly about. There is a lifetime guarntee on these though (the guy said, but there was no formal paper statement in writing declaring that) so i was sold on that idea - but was i wrong? should i go back and ask for a piece of paper with the guarntee in writing? and are perfect circle good tie rods? THANKS for help everybody!!!

 

You may have a Napa store around, try them? They are fairly easy to replace yourself. Measure the length of the old ones from the centers of where the grease fittings would be, and when you install the new ones in the sleeve, make it match as close as you can. Then take it to a trusted alignment shop. I wouldn't let Pep Boys change my wiper blades!,,,,98

Last time I had anything done at a Pep Boys, was an alignment about 4 years ago. The steering wheel was about 5 degrees off center after they got done with it......