How Long Do Stock Shocks Last???
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From: GA
How Long Do Stock Shocks Last???
Hey All,
I have an 2000 F150 5.4 2WD with 90,000 miles. When should I start thinking about shocks? Also, which ones are best for my truck? Are there some types that raise the truck up a little higher? I know these are probably *newbie* questions but I am new to this site. I appreciate recommedations.
BrewMonkey
I have an 2000 F150 5.4 2WD with 90,000 miles. When should I start thinking about shocks? Also, which ones are best for my truck? Are there some types that raise the truck up a little higher? I know these are probably *newbie* questions but I am new to this site. I appreciate recommedations.
BrewMonkey
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From: Chicago Burbs
It's hard to tell with shocks. Yours may be still good, but most likely need replacement. Look for any telltale signs of leaking. If the shock is damp from the fluid leaking out, the shock is dead or dying. One of my oem hd front shocks started leaking at 12,000 miles.
There are a lot of good brands of shock available. I went with Bilsteins for my 01 Scab which improved the handling a bit.
There are a lot of good brands of shock available. I went with Bilsteins for my 01 Scab which improved the handling a bit.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Dec 1997
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Brew,
At 90,000 you are probably exceeded the useful life of the OEM shocks. Shocks are not intended to raise the truck. They are there to dampen the oscillation, up and down motion, of the axles. Any major brand is a good choice.
Edelbrock, http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Rancho, http://www.gorancho.com/Flash_gorancho_main_new.htm
Bilstein, http://www.bilstein.com/oldindex.html
I have Rancho RSX on mine. I am due to change them as I have over 108,000 kms. 69,000 miles of hard use on them. I am looking at the rancho 9000s. I like the adjustable feature of them.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
At 90,000 you are probably exceeded the useful life of the OEM shocks. Shocks are not intended to raise the truck. They are there to dampen the oscillation, up and down motion, of the axles. Any major brand is a good choice.
Edelbrock, http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Rancho, http://www.gorancho.com/Flash_gorancho_main_new.htm
Bilstein, http://www.bilstein.com/oldindex.html
I have Rancho RSX on mine. I am due to change them as I have over 108,000 kms. 69,000 miles of hard use on them. I am looking at the rancho 9000s. I like the adjustable feature of them.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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From: Bakersfield, CA, USA
There is no comparison between the stockers (even if new) and a good quality aftermarket shock like the Edelbrocks. I replaced my stockers at 11,000 miles. In my experience, low quality shocks will degrade substantially around 20,000- 30,000 miles.
Way less body lean with the Edelbrocks, but more plush on sharp hits. A quality shock with a sophisticated design can be stiff on slow shock shaft movements (like cornering) but not lock up on rapid shock shaft movements (like potholes). The low tech stock shocks are the opposite - tons of body roll when cornering but knock your fillings loose on pot holes.
My Edelbrock's have about 64,000 miles and have recently started to feel like they are wearing out. Time to look into what the 'lifetime warranty' means.
Way less body lean with the Edelbrocks, but more plush on sharp hits. A quality shock with a sophisticated design can be stiff on slow shock shaft movements (like cornering) but not lock up on rapid shock shaft movements (like potholes). The low tech stock shocks are the opposite - tons of body roll when cornering but knock your fillings loose on pot holes.
My Edelbrock's have about 64,000 miles and have recently started to feel like they are wearing out. Time to look into what the 'lifetime warranty' means.
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From: GA
Thanks for the reply, guys.
I put about 30k miles per year on my truck without any problems, until last week. The #7 cyl shut down and it drove like crap - directly to my mechanic and he replaced the plugs & did an "injector clean" / butterfly clean. It does drive a lot better. I guess not bad for 90,000 on the original plugs.
It seems like the handling has really gone downhill (all over the road) and the first thing I thought of was the shocks. I am also looking to maybe add poly bushings to the front sway bar and add a rear sway bar, too. I have read about the Hellwig and Hotchkis. I really don't want to fork out the $$ for Hotchkis.
Any more input would be appreciated.
Again, thanks. This is a great site!
Brew on...
BrewMonkey
I put about 30k miles per year on my truck without any problems, until last week. The #7 cyl shut down and it drove like crap - directly to my mechanic and he replaced the plugs & did an "injector clean" / butterfly clean. It does drive a lot better. I guess not bad for 90,000 on the original plugs.
It seems like the handling has really gone downhill (all over the road) and the first thing I thought of was the shocks. I am also looking to maybe add poly bushings to the front sway bar and add a rear sway bar, too. I have read about the Hellwig and Hotchkis. I really don't want to fork out the $$ for Hotchkis.
Any more input would be appreciated.
Again, thanks. This is a great site!
Brew on...
BrewMonkey
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Orlando, FL
I installed Rancho 5000s on my 2000 F150 2WD Sport in January at about 62,000 miles. So far I am pleased with their performance. It's tight, but not too tight. They're a vast improvement over stock. I was seriously considering 9000Xs, but the 50% lower price for the 5000s won. I got them at www.truckperformance.com. Even if you want different shocks, try this site. They have the best prices I've seen with the largest selection.
If you plan to do the work yourself, you may find this write-up useful. I wrote it just after performing the work.
If you plan to do the work yourself, you may find this write-up useful. I wrote it just after performing the work.
Removal and installation of the fronts was easy enough once I got the right tool (two 21mm open-end wrenches, or one and channel-locks, were required for removal of the upper bolt on my Sport). Removal takes longest, since it took about 50 turns each with an open-end wrench, and they were on pretty tight. Lower bolts require 1/2" socket. For installation of the new shocks I had to jack up the springs because the new shocks were shorter than the originals. One hour, including prep.
Removal and installation of the rears was a real B. The upper bolt is inside the frame, making access extremely tight. Two pairs of hands are a huge benefit on this one, and backing the truck onto ramps and removing the spare tire also added much-needed space. I turned the ratchet while my friend held it on-target. This removal requires a 3/4" deep socket and a 3/4" open-end wrench (or channel-locks). Again installation was much easier with the new upper bolt being a 1/2". The lower bolt was a 3/4". A 19mm can be substituted for 3/4" in nearly all cases. Three hours, including prep.
I hope this helps make your experience a little easier. Remember, though, that sizes may differ with your equipment my truck's info is below (signature).
Removal and installation of the rears was a real B. The upper bolt is inside the frame, making access extremely tight. Two pairs of hands are a huge benefit on this one, and backing the truck onto ramps and removing the spare tire also added much-needed space. I turned the ratchet while my friend held it on-target. This removal requires a 3/4" deep socket and a 3/4" open-end wrench (or channel-locks). Again installation was much easier with the new upper bolt being a 1/2". The lower bolt was a 3/4". A 19mm can be substituted for 3/4" in nearly all cases. Three hours, including prep.
I hope this helps make your experience a little easier. Remember, though, that sizes may differ with your equipment my truck's info is below (signature).
Last edited by ucfperspicere; Jul 7, 2003 at 11:33 PM.
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From: GA
Hey Jeff,
That looks identical to my Sport, sans the dual exhaust. I just installed the Magnaflow cat back.
Great instructions - THANKS! But why in the heck does Ford use half SAE and half Metric???? Strange. After driving this morning its seems not to really wander but more leaning and not real great cornering.
Thanks
That looks identical to my Sport, sans the dual exhaust. I just installed the Magnaflow cat back.
Great instructions - THANKS! But why in the heck does Ford use half SAE and half Metric???? Strange. After driving this morning its seems not to really wander but more leaning and not real great cornering.
Thanks
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 9,417
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Brew,
The F-150 is metric. Some Metric and SAE are very close in specs giving the impression that both are used. Ie:¾ in is 19.0500mm so a 19mm might fit. ½in is 12.700mm so a 13 sometimes fits.
JMC
The F-150 is metric. Some Metric and SAE are very close in specs giving the impression that both are used. Ie:¾ in is 19.0500mm so a 19mm might fit. ½in is 12.700mm so a 13 sometimes fits.
JMC
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From: Orlando, FL
American automobile manufacturers are in the midst of changing from American/"Standard" system to metric/SI system. This does create a big pain in the butt. I believe JMC is correct that the F150 is mostly metric, but some parts (such as the 5/8" spark plugs) are still standard. And some aftermarket parts (such as my Gibson exhaust system) still use standard measurements.
To convert a standard (inch) measurement to metric (mm), multiply by 25.4. Conversely, to convert a metric (mm) to standard, divide by 25.4.
Thus, 0.5" x 25.4 = 12.70mm, as JMC said. If you're using 6-point sockets, once you're past ½"/13mm or so, interchanging becomes relatively easy because the difference of less than half a mm is negligible. If you're using 12-point sockets, though, you may not be able to interchange easily until about ¾"/19mm.
-Jeff
To convert a standard (inch) measurement to metric (mm), multiply by 25.4. Conversely, to convert a metric (mm) to standard, divide by 25.4.
Thus, 0.5" x 25.4 = 12.70mm, as JMC said. If you're using 6-point sockets, once you're past ½"/13mm or so, interchanging becomes relatively easy because the difference of less than half a mm is negligible. If you're using 12-point sockets, though, you may not be able to interchange easily until about ¾"/19mm.
-Jeff