Greasing the pitman arm
I have squeek whenever I turn the wheels, I think its the pitman arm after researching it on this forum. I decided to grease it and went out and bought the needle tip grease fitting for my grease gun. My question is what tool do you use to cut a hole in the boot without it being too big,Knife,hole punch, owl? How much grease do you put in?
How long will it last,since the pitman arm is supposed to be sealed.
Thanks for the info.
How long will it last,since the pitman arm is supposed to be sealed.
Thanks for the info.
PAR,
I shot up about a month or so ago. I have not had a problem since. You don't cut the boot just stick the needle in. At first I tried to go around the top edge but after awhile I just said the h**l with it and stuck it. I did leave a little grease on the outside to keep the dirt away from the hole. As for how much, just keep an eye in the swelling of the seal. Since the needle diameter is small it seems to take a while. I'm not sure how long it will last but it was a cheap, quick fix. The noise was driving me crazy. I had nothing to loose, if it does work I'll replace it. I checked the pitman before to make sure hat there was no play in it. I don't think it was worn out it just needed some grease. IMO the perminate grease fittings are sh*t.
I shot up about a month or so ago. I have not had a problem since. You don't cut the boot just stick the needle in. At first I tried to go around the top edge but after awhile I just said the h**l with it and stuck it. I did leave a little grease on the outside to keep the dirt away from the hole. As for how much, just keep an eye in the swelling of the seal. Since the needle diameter is small it seems to take a while. I'm not sure how long it will last but it was a cheap, quick fix. The noise was driving me crazy. I had nothing to loose, if it does work I'll replace it. I checked the pitman before to make sure hat there was no play in it. I don't think it was worn out it just needed some grease. IMO the perminate grease fittings are sh*t.
I'm on my second pitman arm, and it is failing too. I will try the suggested fix, but maybe putting some rubber cement or caulk on it would work...
------------------
1998 F-150 XLT SC 5.4L
------------------
1998 F-150 XLT SC 5.4L
Par:
You don't need to cut or punch a big hole in the rubber boot, provided that you bought the right grease needle. Do this:
1. Attach the needle to the grease gun.
2. stick it through the boot.
3. Pump a good 10 or 12 strokes, or until the grease starts bleeding out the side of the hole
4. Start your truck and turn the steering wheel side to side, lock to lock. You will hear the noise go away.
5. Seal the hole with RTV silicone sealant.
This is the needle. $3.95 at Autozone
While you pump grease, try not to wiggle the needle too much, so it don't make the hole bigger than you need.
------------------
'97 F150 XLT SC, 2WD, 4.6 Auto
* 3" Bullseye spindles
* 2" Superlift angled blocks in rear
* Rancho RS5000's
* AR Baja's 16X8
* Gorilla locknuts (all 20 lugnuts are locknuts)
* 285-75-16 Firestone Wilderness AT III's
* E150 "Triton V8" emblems
* Donmar Sunroof
* Sony CD player
* SuperChip
* K&N Filter
* Bedliner
* Weathertech Ventvisors
* Ford locking gas cap
* Delta aluminum toolbox
* Putco shorty chrome bedrails
* 4:10 US Gear ring & pinion, complete with gear whine.
(It's the Turbo, Son, it's the Turbo!)
[This message has been edited by Roberto (edited 11-04-2000).]
You don't need to cut or punch a big hole in the rubber boot, provided that you bought the right grease needle. Do this:
1. Attach the needle to the grease gun.
2. stick it through the boot.
3. Pump a good 10 or 12 strokes, or until the grease starts bleeding out the side of the hole
4. Start your truck and turn the steering wheel side to side, lock to lock. You will hear the noise go away.
5. Seal the hole with RTV silicone sealant.
This is the needle. $3.95 at Autozone
While you pump grease, try not to wiggle the needle too much, so it don't make the hole bigger than you need.
------------------
'97 F150 XLT SC, 2WD, 4.6 Auto
* 3" Bullseye spindles
* 2" Superlift angled blocks in rear
* Rancho RS5000's
* AR Baja's 16X8
* Gorilla locknuts (all 20 lugnuts are locknuts)
* 285-75-16 Firestone Wilderness AT III's
* E150 "Triton V8" emblems
* Donmar Sunroof
* Sony CD player
* SuperChip
* K&N Filter
* Bedliner
* Weathertech Ventvisors
* Ford locking gas cap
* Delta aluminum toolbox
* Putco shorty chrome bedrails
* 4:10 US Gear ring & pinion, complete with gear whine.
(It's the Turbo, Son, it's the Turbo!)
[This message has been edited by Roberto (edited 11-04-2000).]
Wow,Roberto. Great pic, I know exactly how to do this when mine starts squealing. My fingers are crossed,though,no squeal at 49,000 and no P/S either. I recently found out that I have a windsor 4.6. I've been lucky with this truck, none of the typical problems.
------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
Viper 500HF Security system
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam, etc..etc.......
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.Billet grilles on order
www.my-f150.com
Fender Guitars,ROCK!!!
------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
Viper 500HF Security system
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam, etc..etc.......
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.Billet grilles on order
www.my-f150.com
Fender Guitars,ROCK!!!
Roberto
Congrats on a great post. Well explained.
------------------
My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift, Lift Lips and Daystar front anti-sway bar polyurethane bushings.
Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
Congrats on a great post. Well explained.
------------------
My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift, Lift Lips and Daystar front anti-sway bar polyurethane bushings.
Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
Roberto,
Great Job on the post! Was looking through for help with the wife's Expedition. After finally finding the grease needle (5 stops) it took all of 2 minutes to KILL THE SQUEEK MONSTER!
Had to hold back and not do all the other zertless joints.
------------------
94 F-150 XL, 4.9L, Ext. Cab, 2WD, 3.08 limited slip, towing package, HD Cooling (ex-fleet vehicle) Upgrades: Leveling Coils, Extended Length Shocks, 30x9.50 BFGs, Powerstroke Front Bumper, Custom Front Seats - console, Side Steps, Extang Tonno cover, Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender flares, AVS-Side Shades: Hood Protector: Step Guards: Rear Visor: Vent Shades, Bedliner. 130K and still going strong!
Great Job on the post! Was looking through for help with the wife's Expedition. After finally finding the grease needle (5 stops) it took all of 2 minutes to KILL THE SQUEEK MONSTER!
Had to hold back and not do all the other zertless joints.
------------------
94 F-150 XL, 4.9L, Ext. Cab, 2WD, 3.08 limited slip, towing package, HD Cooling (ex-fleet vehicle) Upgrades: Leveling Coils, Extended Length Shocks, 30x9.50 BFGs, Powerstroke Front Bumper, Custom Front Seats - console, Side Steps, Extang Tonno cover, Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender flares, AVS-Side Shades: Hood Protector: Step Guards: Rear Visor: Vent Shades, Bedliner. 130K and still going strong!


