I've been playing with my torsion bars...
...for 3 hours.
Just testing things out. (It really is only an EASY 30 min. job though, if that.) At stock, my driver's side was 1/4" lower than my passenger. I jacked up the driver's side, and cranked it 3 complete turns. Then, I jacked up the passanger side 2 cranks. I then, hopped up and down the curb a few times, to "break" everything in, and now my driver's side is 1/8" higher than the passenger side, to allow for my 185 lbs. @ss.
Ride is great, CV joints look fine, and I got about an 1" to 1 1/4" lift. I love the way it feels in the corners and braking. Looks AWESOME, IMO. I don't see any problems happening, but I will let you all know, See sig. I now have 1,800 miles, and I have an appt. tomorrow morning with Ford to get an alignment. I told them I was going to do the mod. I also called a local truck performance shop today...they said that they do 2 turns, for a 3/4" lift, then send it to Ford for an alignment. Their cost is only $20, for the cranking, and their a damned good shop here in K.C. Very reputable.
Anyway, I set my torsion bars at several different settings to get a feel for it. What I posted above, was just what I did in the long run. First, I did 2 complete turns on each side, than set it down. I jumped on the bumper, and measured. I found that I had exactly 1" at this setting, and the wheels really bowed inward like a baja truck. So, I drove it up onto the sidewalk, then back down, and re-measured. This time, I only had 3/4" of lift, and the wheels looked fine. To get the truck level, I gave the driver's side and extra turn. (Again, in the long run.) I'm tempted to turn them further, but I've afraid of stressing the CV joints, and having Ford tell me that I need a camber kit. That'll take it from a $40 job, to a $140 job, I'm sure. HOw many cranks have you all done? I'm not quite level, but hey, It's an Off-Road...the @ss end sticks up more than a standard 4X4 XLT. (I think. I.E. Heavy Duty Shocks.) Any opinions before I get to the shop at 9:00 in the morning? Thanks. BTW, GO FOR IT!!!
-AR
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- 2001 F-150 XLT 4X4 Off-Road, S/C, FS, Black
- 4.6L Triton V8 (20 H.P. Increase)
- 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle
- Keyless
- Premium Audio CD
- Mods.
- K&N Cold Air mod.
- Flowmaster 40 (Stock Setup with 3 1/2" Gibson Tip)
- Bugshield
- Bedliner
- Ventshades
Just testing things out. (It really is only an EASY 30 min. job though, if that.) At stock, my driver's side was 1/4" lower than my passenger. I jacked up the driver's side, and cranked it 3 complete turns. Then, I jacked up the passanger side 2 cranks. I then, hopped up and down the curb a few times, to "break" everything in, and now my driver's side is 1/8" higher than the passenger side, to allow for my 185 lbs. @ss.
Ride is great, CV joints look fine, and I got about an 1" to 1 1/4" lift. I love the way it feels in the corners and braking. Looks AWESOME, IMO. I don't see any problems happening, but I will let you all know, See sig. I now have 1,800 miles, and I have an appt. tomorrow morning with Ford to get an alignment. I told them I was going to do the mod. I also called a local truck performance shop today...they said that they do 2 turns, for a 3/4" lift, then send it to Ford for an alignment. Their cost is only $20, for the cranking, and their a damned good shop here in K.C. Very reputable. Anyway, I set my torsion bars at several different settings to get a feel for it. What I posted above, was just what I did in the long run. First, I did 2 complete turns on each side, than set it down. I jumped on the bumper, and measured. I found that I had exactly 1" at this setting, and the wheels really bowed inward like a baja truck. So, I drove it up onto the sidewalk, then back down, and re-measured. This time, I only had 3/4" of lift, and the wheels looked fine. To get the truck level, I gave the driver's side and extra turn. (Again, in the long run.) I'm tempted to turn them further, but I've afraid of stressing the CV joints, and having Ford tell me that I need a camber kit. That'll take it from a $40 job, to a $140 job, I'm sure. HOw many cranks have you all done? I'm not quite level, but hey, It's an Off-Road...the @ss end sticks up more than a standard 4X4 XLT. (I think. I.E. Heavy Duty Shocks.) Any opinions before I get to the shop at 9:00 in the morning? Thanks. BTW, GO FOR IT!!!
-AR
------------------
- 2001 F-150 XLT 4X4 Off-Road, S/C, FS, Black
- 4.6L Triton V8 (20 H.P. Increase)
- 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle
- Keyless
- Premium Audio CD
- Mods.
- K&N Cold Air mod.
- Flowmaster 40 (Stock Setup with 3 1/2" Gibson Tip)
- Bugshield
- Bedliner
- Ventshades
I cranked my torsion bars up 2 complete turns. I obtained a full 1" to 1.25". The reps at the service department said, " as long as you don't turn the screws more than 2 turns, you won't need to get the truck realigned." The wheels sit striaght. I dropped a plumb bob along the center. Everything checked out for both left and right tires. One thing, though: The passenger's side was about 0.25" higher than the driver's side. So, I backed that one off a quarter of one turn. Everything is level. This has been about 2000 miles ago. Tread wear looks fine. Suspension is normal. All the joints look fine.
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1999 F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab, Tow Pkg ORP,heavy duty alternator, factory tranny and engine oil cooler
8.8 front/9.75 LS rear, 3.55 gears, K&N Gen II, 40 Flomaster (w/4" chrome tip), Superchip, 32x11.50 Swampers
-future mods
JBA headers (Jet-hot coated), Flex-a-lite, JL Audio subs, Sony CD-Player, Magnacharger, cowl induction, straight axle conversion (8 inch lift w/crossover steering), 4.56 gears, 38.5x16 Boggers, Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear (Detroit locker)
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1999 F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab, Tow Pkg ORP,heavy duty alternator, factory tranny and engine oil cooler
8.8 front/9.75 LS rear, 3.55 gears, K&N Gen II, 40 Flomaster (w/4" chrome tip), Superchip, 32x11.50 Swampers
-future mods
JBA headers (Jet-hot coated), Flex-a-lite, JL Audio subs, Sony CD-Player, Magnacharger, cowl induction, straight axle conversion (8 inch lift w/crossover steering), 4.56 gears, 38.5x16 Boggers, Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear (Detroit locker)
Sounds good man. I have one problem though...I can be sitting in one place, and the driver's side is approx. 1/8" taller, but in another, the driver's side is 3/4" taller, then in another place, the pass. side is up to 1" taller...see what I'm getting at? Everywhere I park, the ground is diffent, so it's "throwing" me off a lot!!! I dunno where to go so I can get a nice level "playing field" so I can get a true measurment. I guess I'll have the Ford tards check it for me. 
-AR

-AR
Jackal
Tards checking measurements???, I wonder.
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1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift and Lift Lips.
See photos at http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
Tards checking measurements???, I wonder.
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1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.
Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift and Lift Lips.
See photos at http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck
I went up 3 full turns on each side for around 1" to 1 1/4" lift. Truck sids almost level now...still a little low in the front, but just the way I like it. I did this when I put on the new tires...but only for cosmetic purposes. It looks great. I went to the alignment shop the next day and it didn't even need an alignment.
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'97 F150 4x4 Off-Road Extended Cab Lariat Flareside white/tan, tan leather, 4.6, 3.55
Duraliner bedliner, Husky floormats, Custom seatcovers (I only cover the leather when I'm really dirty, though), Premier single-lid toolbox
285/75/16 BFG All-Terrain T/A KO's, 16x8 American Racing Python Aluminum Wheels, Torsion Bars up 1", Gibson 2.5" split-rear exit cat-back exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Rancho RS9000's w/ dual remote
http://ocu-stars.okcu.edu/cvenable.stu/index.htm#b
(new pics to come soon
------------------
'97 F150 4x4 Off-Road Extended Cab Lariat Flareside white/tan, tan leather, 4.6, 3.55
Duraliner bedliner, Husky floormats, Custom seatcovers (I only cover the leather when I'm really dirty, though), Premier single-lid toolbox
285/75/16 BFG All-Terrain T/A KO's, 16x8 American Racing Python Aluminum Wheels, Torsion Bars up 1", Gibson 2.5" split-rear exit cat-back exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Rancho RS9000's w/ dual remote
http://ocu-stars.okcu.edu/cvenable.stu/index.htm#b
(new pics to come soon
tools:
tape measure
1/2 socket wrench
wd40 or pentration oil
18mm socket
Get under the truck. In about the middle of the doors there is a crossmember. If you look at each side you will see 2 bolts there. That is how you adjust the bars. Lube them up with the oil or wd40.
First check your tire pressure. Make sure each tire has equal pressure in it!!!!
Second, measure the top of the wheel well directly thru the center of the wheel. Do this for both sides and mark the measurements on paper. Also measure the same thing on the rear. Now if one side is lower than the other, you can adjust the lower side. Basically 1 full turn of the adjustment bolts is about 1/2" of lift.
Once you get each side level up front, then crank the bars in 1/2 turns until the front is about 1/2" lower then the rear. After each 1/2 turn, bounce on the front bumper about 2-3 times and measure. Do not exceed 3 turns on the bolts or more than 1 1/4" lift in the front. This will create excessive angles on the CV joints and cause premature wear!!!!
After that, drive the truck and check the measurements again side to side. You should have an alignment done on the truck after this for maximum tire life.
[This message has been edited by Matt90GT (edited 10-06-2000).]
tape measure
1/2 socket wrench
wd40 or pentration oil
18mm socket
Get under the truck. In about the middle of the doors there is a crossmember. If you look at each side you will see 2 bolts there. That is how you adjust the bars. Lube them up with the oil or wd40.
First check your tire pressure. Make sure each tire has equal pressure in it!!!!
Second, measure the top of the wheel well directly thru the center of the wheel. Do this for both sides and mark the measurements on paper. Also measure the same thing on the rear. Now if one side is lower than the other, you can adjust the lower side. Basically 1 full turn of the adjustment bolts is about 1/2" of lift.
Once you get each side level up front, then crank the bars in 1/2 turns until the front is about 1/2" lower then the rear. After each 1/2 turn, bounce on the front bumper about 2-3 times and measure. Do not exceed 3 turns on the bolts or more than 1 1/4" lift in the front. This will create excessive angles on the CV joints and cause premature wear!!!!
After that, drive the truck and check the measurements again side to side. You should have an alignment done on the truck after this for maximum tire life.
[This message has been edited by Matt90GT (edited 10-06-2000).]


