i used a djm 4"&6" kit but it didn't really come down 6" in the rear, but i'm happier with the way it turned out. my wheels are 17X8 in the front with 225/50/17 tires and the backs are 17X9.5 with 275/50/17s both are front and rear are nitto extremes and look very good. the ride after lowering it was better than before i dropped it, i attribute this to the original shocks being wore out,but the ride is a little stiff now with the low profile front tires but still good. my front end guy said it fell into alignment. overall i would reccomend this kit for this model truck, here are my pics. http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293754633

 

Verrrrryyy Niccccce!! I want to lower mine
but my fiance is dead set against it. I figure I can get away with a 2*3* maybe a
2*2* and she won't notice,hehehe. I guess I could sneak some bags in it,but
if I ever forgot to lift it when I came home.
ooh boy! hmmmm...I wonder if she would
like it lifted,lol

------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT
K/N gen.II fipk
Custom duals w/glasspacks
color matched Snuglid
headlight covers.
doin the monochromatic boogie on the front end.
on the way(headers,air dam,wheels and tires,etc...........................

 

Just got done lowering mine also. I bought the Motorsport Kit from Downs Ford.It is the 2"/4".It is actually the Ground Pounder kit.Your truck looks awesome!! I was afraid to go that low the first time. Mine also rides better now. Did you install your kit? I did my own and those @!#$%^&&%$#@ rivets were as bad as I had heard! The front was a breeze. I would highly recommend this kit.By the way our trucks look identical except mine is a standard cab...

------------------
97 F-150
5.4,Auto,2wd
3.55
Blue/Silver
K&N filter
WMS Velocity Tube
Superchipped
40 series FlowmasterDelta Flow(3" inlet/dual 2.5" outlet side exit w/dual 3"chrome tips(looks better than stock Lightning).LEADFOOT!!

 

clay, yes i installed mine myself. didn't have to do the rivet thing because the rear was a flip kit, but i did have to cut my rear frame rails for the c-notch. just got my hellwig rear sway bar today, should add a little to the handling. i haven't dragged bottom yet and i've been driving it like i did before it was lowered, i do watch the road more closely. hey post a pic of your truck, love to see it. sorry it took so long to answer but i generally hang out at the lighning board.

 

Hey guys,

I just did the 2" drop hangers on the rear...yes, that was a PITA, but to be honest, I'm having more trouble with the front...believe it or not.

I tried getting the upper A-arm loose from the knuckle, but cannot get it to budge. Tried the lower A-arm to knuckle...no dice. I used an old gear puller I had and it didn't work. Successfully dropped the shock and the sway bar end link to the lower A-arm.

Can I unbolt the two bolts that hold the upper A-arm to the frame and then lower the jack down so the spring just falls out (obviously, I'd secure it with rope first...so it won't come flying out)?

Frustrated,

------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

W A 2 Fast
After you remove the cotter keys from both the bottom and the top of the spindle,back the nuts off untill they are flush with the bolt heads. Take a mallet and tap on the spindle(forcefully if you need to). This should cause the spindle to drop off both the upper and lower ball joints. Once it drops, you should be able to leave the top one on and just remove the bottom one. Make sure before you try to take the nut off the bottom ball joint,that you take the pressure off the spindle by jacking up the lower control arm. Once you have taken the pressure off the lower control arm you can loosen the nut and lower the control arm slowly and the spring will fall out. You also need to remove the sway bar from the side that you are working on, as you are doing that side. Hope everything works out for you!!

------------------
97 F-150
5.4,Auto,2wd
3.55
Blue/Silver
K&N filter
WMS Velocity Tube
Superchipped
40 series FlowmasterDelta Flow(3" inlet/dual 2.5" outlet side exit w/dual 3"chrome tips
Motorsport 2"/4" Drop Kit
LEADFOOT!!

 

Thanks for the tip.

I tried that method and for some reason my control arm to spindle joints were just frozen.

Anyway, I ended up just removing the two bolts that hold the upper A-arm in place. The thing will have to be aligned anyway, and I won't drive it anymore except up to the alignment shop next week. Doing it by dropping the upper a-arm was a piece of cake. Took no time at all.

I know this is not the _correct_ method as outlined by the manual I bought, but it worked fine.

------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

NO NO NO, you don't have to take the spindle off at all or loosten it. Yes, you can remover the upper A-arm bolts and let the jack down to release the spring and pull them out. In fact this is the best way because the lower A-arm will still be supporting your brake calipers and lines and make it much easier on you.

 

nytling, I am wanting to lower mine with a 3/4 belltech, but after I saw yours I might be talked into going a little lower. How much did your kit cost and how hard was it to install on your own?

------------------
99 F-150 4.2L
True duals W/Magnaflows
Jacobs Ignition
K&N filtercharger
Custom programed chip
throttle body spacer
ported&polished throttle body
ported mass air flow sensor
Black Magic electric fan

 

f150freak, i don't recall the cost exactly but somewhere around 650. but i would recommend the western kit over the djm. they have a better c-notch and i think they did better research on thier front lower a-arms. try sport truck direct, they're in most trucking type mags. i just couldn't wait when i wanted to order mine and western was still working on thiers. the hardest part about doing it myself was getting enough friends together at the same time to lift off my bed. you do need to cut your frame for the c-notch, i used a sawszall, wasn't that difficult. sorry for the delay i've been on the lightning board.

 

f150freak,
I agree with nytling92. The Western Chassis does have a better kit and the a-arms are well thought through and won't hit the brake calipers like many of the "other" brands.
You can get the kit at Sport truck Direct
@ 800-876-6226. They are really cool to deal with. Make sure to also purchase a 6 degree shim (for rear to keep drive line and axle lined up) and the alignment kit for the front because I'm not sure they are in the kit.
Good luck and lets see some pics

Later...Bigmike

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http://www.my-f150.com/big.mike/

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[This message has been edited by big.mike (edited 09-13-2000).]

 

Clay,
Can you post a picture of your truck with the 2-4 drop? I have the exact same truck as you (except for the 5.4L) and I want to do a 2-4 or a 3-4 drop.

Thanks,
Steve

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My Ride: 1997 F150XLT,Two Tone Moonlight Blue & Silver,3.55 LS,Class III Tow Package, 4.6L Auto, Std Cab Styleside, 2 WD.
Sound System: Alpine CD Player, Soundstream Rubicon Amp (200W), Kicker Solo-Baric Sub, Boston Pro Separates.
Appearance: Tinted Windows, Stull Billet Grille, Hella Micro DE Fog Lamps, Ford Bed Liner, Extang Black Max Soft Tonneau, 2" Drop Shackles.
Performance: Gibson Exhaust, K&N Filter, Superchipped, WMS Velocity Tube, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Hellwig Sway bar, Michelin LTX M/S 255/70 16" Tires.

 

I can E-mail some to you or you can go to zip.com 1997 f-150. Let me know.