SICK OF STOCK, GOIN' DOWN 5 & 6
Thats it, I can't take it any more! Ordering my drop kit asap! Anyone have any suggestions on the kit, I want to go 5 and 6, and got a price on the AIM kit $504.00.
Kit includes:
3 inch spring
2 inch lower control arm
6 inch flip kit & c-notch
shocks
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1999 4.6 Extra Cab-Short Bed
Silver Clear Coat Metalic
K&N Airfilter
17 Inch 2000 Chrome 4X4 Wheels Wrapped in 275/60/17 ZR Yokahama AVS
White-Faced Luminescent Gauges
Flowmaster 3 inch Cat Back 40 Series Exhaust
3.5 Inch Polished Thermal Research Exhaust Tip
Clear Corner Lenses
Super White Headlight and Turn Signals
Trends Billet Antenna
Stull Billet Grill
e-mail SILVERFORDF150@AOL.COM
Kit includes:
3 inch spring
2 inch lower control arm
6 inch flip kit & c-notch
shocks
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1999 4.6 Extra Cab-Short Bed
Silver Clear Coat Metalic
K&N Airfilter
17 Inch 2000 Chrome 4X4 Wheels Wrapped in 275/60/17 ZR Yokahama AVS
White-Faced Luminescent Gauges
Flowmaster 3 inch Cat Back 40 Series Exhaust
3.5 Inch Polished Thermal Research Exhaust Tip
Clear Corner Lenses
Super White Headlight and Turn Signals
Trends Billet Antenna
Stull Billet Grill
e-mail SILVERFORDF150@AOL.COM
FORDTRK, don't go AIM...they s*ck!!!
I have 2' AIM A-arms and I had to do alot of modification to them in order to keep them from rubbing on the brake calipers (very bad engineering on their part). Many others have also posted there complaints about AIM.
Call up the guys at Sport Truck Direct in Arizona and order the Western Chasis kit. It's a little more expensive but from what I here they do an EXCELLENT job in designing a kit that fits like factory. (I bought my rear kit and am going to get their "smooth ride" springs for the front...I have 2" but want 3" for a total of 5" in the front)
BTW...I have also heard that DJM has the same problem with their A-arms. What happens is there is no stopper welded on the a-arms so when you turn the wheel completely to one side or the other it hits the caliper and bleeds the brake fluid back through the system and prevents the brakes from working on the first stop after the turn. I had to weld a bead on the a-arms to prevent this. And also the sway bar does not line up correctly (that I will fix when I get the new springs but it requires cutting and welding in the sway bar brackets)
Sorry to be so long winded but I just want to keep you from buying a product you will definitely regret
Later...Bigmike
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http://www.my-f150.com/big.mike/
[This message has been edited by big.mike (edited 08-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by big.mike (edited 08-30-2000).]
I have 2' AIM A-arms and I had to do alot of modification to them in order to keep them from rubbing on the brake calipers (very bad engineering on their part). Many others have also posted there complaints about AIM.
Call up the guys at Sport Truck Direct in Arizona and order the Western Chasis kit. It's a little more expensive but from what I here they do an EXCELLENT job in designing a kit that fits like factory. (I bought my rear kit and am going to get their "smooth ride" springs for the front...I have 2" but want 3" for a total of 5" in the front)
BTW...I have also heard that DJM has the same problem with their A-arms. What happens is there is no stopper welded on the a-arms so when you turn the wheel completely to one side or the other it hits the caliper and bleeds the brake fluid back through the system and prevents the brakes from working on the first stop after the turn. I had to weld a bead on the a-arms to prevent this. And also the sway bar does not line up correctly (that I will fix when I get the new springs but it requires cutting and welding in the sway bar brackets)
Sorry to be so long winded but I just want to keep you from buying a product you will definitely regret
Later...Bigmike
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http://www.my-f150.com/big.mike/ - [*]
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[This message has been edited by big.mike (edited 08-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by big.mike (edited 08-30-2000).]
Thanks bigmike! good stuff to know! is there another company that makes a 5 and 6 drop? I also plan on running 20 inch wheels, do you think that they will work?
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1999 4.6 Extra Cab-Short Bed
Silver Clear Coat Metalic
K&N Airfilter
17 Inch 2000 Chrome 4X4 Wheels Wrapped in 275/60/17 ZR Yokahama AVS
White-Faced Luminescent Gauges
Flowmaster 3 inch Cat Back 40 Series Exhaust
3.5 Inch Polished Thermal Research Exhaust Tip
Clear Corner Lenses
Super White Headlight and Turn Signals
Trends Billet Antenna
Stull Billet Grill
e-mail SILVERFORDF150@AOL.COM
------------------
1999 4.6 Extra Cab-Short Bed
Silver Clear Coat Metalic
K&N Airfilter
17 Inch 2000 Chrome 4X4 Wheels Wrapped in 275/60/17 ZR Yokahama AVS
White-Faced Luminescent Gauges
Flowmaster 3 inch Cat Back 40 Series Exhaust
3.5 Inch Polished Thermal Research Exhaust Tip
Clear Corner Lenses
Super White Headlight and Turn Signals
Trends Billet Antenna
Stull Billet Grill
e-mail SILVERFORDF150@AOL.COM
Western Chassis is really the way to go. I have their 3/5 kit and quality is top notch!
They now have their website online at www.sporttruckdirect.com
They now have their website online at www.sporttruckdirect.com
fordtrk, i have lowered trucks for quite awhile and i would turn and run from aim, be affraid be very affraid! i used a djm kit to lower mine 4&6. the kit is pretty straight forward and easy to install,BUT, if i had it to do again i would have used western components. at the time i ordered my stuff they were still in the development stage and i guess i just thought i couldn't wait. the things i don't like about the djm kit are the c-notch doesn't have the support to the bottom of the frame rails and as stated the holes for the front sway bar didn't line up. go with western. also if you go down 5 in front you will want to go down 7 in the rear or will be raking(pointed down hill) very hard. best of luck.


