Well, to all of you considering cranking up your torsion bars to "level" your truck, I have done just that.

I cranked 4 complete circles on each tensioner bolt. It raised the nose a little more than an inch. Looks extra beefy now.

So, then I drove it. There's less body roll in the turns, no more tire squealing. It actually feels taller. It handles all the bumps and potholes in the road better.

When you crank on the tensioner bolt, you are putting more tension on the torsion bar. Unlike a normal coil spring, the torsion bar twists to give you your suspension. By cranking up on the bolt, you preload the suspension more, increasing the spring rate, making a firmer ride.

Downsides however, it throws off your camber. Your tires will have a tendancy to wear on the outside edge now, so you will want to get it aligned. If your tires are wearing on the inside edge slightly (like mine were) you may cancel this out, and "correct" it so to speak.

It's an 18mm socket and a long ratchet that you'll need. Remember, righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. Make sure you do each side evenly, and you may want to check ride height before and after with a tape measure from the upper fenderwell to a level driveway or similar surface.

Hope this helps all of you. And remember, if you wind up that you don't like it, you can just back off 4 turns to return to stock height. This only took me 3 minutes to do.

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1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Ford hvy dty rubber floor mats, Kenwood 10-disk cd changer, Kenwood am/fm cassette head unit, PYLE 2000 Plus speakers, Ford bugshield, Chrome Grizzly Wrap Around Push Bar with 2 KC 100w Daylighters, Ford wheel locks and spare tire lock, Lund Lunar Visor, Ventshades, AVS slotted taillight covers painted to match, Ford bedliner, Lund Premier tonneau cover, cab and bed professionally undercoated, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, Ford alarm, Realistic CB with Wilson Little Wil antenna, ported MAF sensor, Motorsport 9mm wires, dual platinum motorcraft plugs, K&N filter, and Lots of TLC!! (Besides being an F-150 nut, I am a Ford auto technician.)

http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/wyldf150.html

 

Told you so..........Get some pics I want to see......STeve

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• -1999 Ford F-150 Supercab Flareside ORP
• -4.6 Liter V-8, Auto, 3.55 LS Rear
• -Deep Wedgewood Blue
• -Flowmaster Delta Flow Series 40 single 2.5" inlet w/dual 2.5" outlets
• -two 18" adcar stainless steel exhaust tips
• -Lund Lighted Moon Visor (painted)
• -Lund Interceptor Bug Guard (painted)
• -Deflecta-Shield Window Rain Guards (painted)
• -Delecta-Shield Slotted Tail Light Covers (painted)
• -Manik Grille Guard
• -Ford Factory Cab Steps
• -Extang Soft Bed Cover
• -Yellow Under Car Strip Lights
• -Tinted Windows (5% totally illegal)
• -Pioneer P725R CD Player w/Flip Face Head Unit
• -Superwhite Headlight Bulbs (from Online Store)
• -K&N Air Filter
• -Air Box Silencer Removed, Tail Light Modification
• -Cranked Torsion Bars to Level Truck Out

In Loving Memory of Craig W. Menth Sr. Maltese Cross Fire Memorial Sticker



http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/index.html
www.my-f150.com/steveo
steveo@f150fanatic.com




[This message has been edited by steveo (edited 07-14-2000).]

 

yeah, works great. You have more upward travel. Downside is that you have less downward travel now.

With my alignment, the only thing that was off is the toe. Think about it: if you move the a-arms past level, you do not have enough slack in the steering to keep the toe centered. So what happens is the tires get pinched in.

now all I need is new shocks. There are still the stockers in there and with the larger tires, they dont do a good job.

 

Good information. Question, do you guys jack the wheel off the ground first or leave it on the ground before cranking the torsion bar? Does it ride rougher? What do you think about the possibility of breaking the bar with the extra tension in it? Sounds like this is what I want to do to my truck. 4 turns = 1" only?

------------------
<URL=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=321294&a=3025856>

Mine:1997</URL> F150, XLT, SC, Oxford white/maroon 60/40 cloth, 4x4 ORP, 4.6L, 3.55LS, 17" ORP wheels w/GY AT/S LT265/70/17, auto, 6 CD,Towing package, alarm, Rhino grill guard w/PICCA lights, dual exhaust. Bought new June '96

Wife: 1999 Explorer Limited,pearl white/tan leather,4.0L,4:10LS,CD,sunroof,towing pkg.,alarm. Bought new Sept. 1999

Next: SuperCrew, 5.4L, 4x4,3:55LS,tow pkg. etc..

Previous: '65 Mustang 289 HiPo, '70 Chevelle SS 396, '70 Vette Conv. 350/350, 72 Datsun PU,'74 Vette TTop, '79 Blazer, '81 F150, '83 Bonneville, '84 Gran Marquis '89 TBird Super Coupe 3.8L SuperCharged, '93 Explorer 4.0L




[This message has been edited by Dewayne Fuller (edited 07-14-2000).]

 

leave the weight on the truck. You will need a 18mm socket and 1/2" socket wrench or breaker bar. just go slow and measure about every full turn.

 

Well, the ride is stiffer, not rough by any means though. You hardly notice it being stiffer though, and it handles muuuuch better. Any higher and I don't think I'd be too happy.

So steveo, you're right. I was sitting around, thinking of my cookie cutter tires, and said, hmmmmm, lets get 'crankin' so to speak. I wanna get the 3" body lift and some 34" M/T Baja Belted's, but I got no money now that I'm buying this house. Supposed to close august 25th, so maybe by September or October we got one more place for a NJ truck club meeting.

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1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Ford hvy dty rubber floor mats, Kenwood 10-disk cd changer, Kenwood am/fm cassette head unit, PYLE 2000 Plus speakers, Ford bugshield, Chrome Grizzly Wrap Around Push Bar with 2 KC 100w Daylighters, Ford wheel locks and spare tire lock, Lund Lunar Visor, Ventshades, AVS slotted taillight covers painted to match, Ford bedliner, Lund Premier tonneau cover, cab and bed professionally undercoated, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, Ford alarm, Realistic CB with Wilson Little Wil antenna, ported MAF sensor, Motorsport 9mm wires, dual platinum motorcraft plugs, K&N filter, and Lots of TLC!! (Besides being an F-150 nut, I am a Ford auto technician.)

http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/wyldf150.html

 

I found it much easier to adjust if you jack the frame up.

 

WELL.....I ADJUSTED BOTH BOLTS ALL THE WAY...MY TRUCK IS ABOUT 1/4 TO 1/2 OF AN INCH OFF. I THINK THIS IS FOR THE WEIGHT OF THE DRIVER. I HAVE FINALLY INSTALLED MY "****" CEPEK 2" BODY LIFT. IT WAS NOT VERY DIFFICULT. MORE INTERESTING THAN ANYTHING. NOW I HAVE AMPLE CLEARANCE FOR THE 35X12.50 SWAMPERS.....I AM IN NEED OF NEW TIRES...LIKE 315'S? ANY SUGGESTIONS...I'LL POST SOME PICS AS SOON AS I RECIEVE MY SCANNER.

TIM WEIGEL
98 4X4 LARIAT EX-CAB
BRIGHT RED, SILVER METALLIC FROST
GRAY LEATHER
2" CEPEK BODY-CRANKED TORSION BARS-ADD A LEAF IN REAR
35X12.50 SWAMPER SSR'S
16X10 AR BAJA'S
WESTIN GRILL/BRUSHGAURD
WESTIN DOUBLE/SINGLE BAR
6 CEPEK 130 WATT LIGHTS
WESTIN NERFS
5% WINDOWS


------------------
TIM WEIGEL

 

An interesting item I found in my 1997 F150 brochure states the 4X4 has "height adjustable front torsion bar suspension". I had forgot about that. So I guess it is a safe optional way to raise, or lower, the front.

 

I hate to bring this back up. But Dwayne Fuller was right. In the pamphlet, it says that. But, do you really have to get the vehicle realigned? I mean, as long as you do the same on one side as you do to the other and check to ensure equal elevations, it should keep straight. But then, what do you do about the toe in factor?

 

I hate to bring this back up. But Dwayne Fuller was right. In the pamphlet, it says that. But, do you really have to get the vehicle realigned? I mean, as long as you do the same on one side as you do to the other and check to ensure equal elevations, it should keep straight. But then, what do you do about the toe in factor?

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1999 Red F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab
Towing Package
Corporate 9.75 Rear Axle, 3.55 Limited Slip
Corporate 8.8 Front Axle, 3.55 Open
K&N Generation II
Jet Chip
32x11.50 Super Swamper SSR
coming soon
Gibson Headers
40-Series Flomaster exhaust

 

Would it be safe to assume that the factory may have the torsion bar settings different for each F150? For example… I have the towing package. Would Ford assume that I tow every day and that my rear end should be initially higher? So when I load my bed, the truck would then be level...and so they would have the torsion bars set at minimum stress. What about the Off-Road Pkg.? Would they already have the torsion bars set to their max to get the greatest possible front end clearance? Would another theory be (probably better): Ford sets the torsion bars EQUAL on every F150 off the line. And some people have already adjusted their torsion bars. I know that on some trucks, you can just look at them and tell they have their torsion bars already adjusted tighter. I’ve always thought the F150’s stance to be very tall. But in my eyes (inferiority problem), it’s hard to say that my truck is tall. You know: “Everyone is taller than mine!”

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1999 Red F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab
Towing Package
Corporate 9.75 Rear Axle, 3.55 Limited Slip
Corporate 8.8 Front Axle, 3.55 Open
K&N Generation II
Jet Chip
32x11.50 Super Swamper SSR
coming soon
Gibson Headers
40-Series Flomaster exhaust

 

Didn't some 150's experience a problem with
torsion bars snapping in two? I wouldn't crank them up too much if I were yall.

 

No, not too much. Just an inch is what seems to be the safest bet. When my truck had the stock 235/75R16's on, it looked like a 2WD (if it didn't have the sticker).

 

I have a 2002 FX4...my front tires are wearing on the inside-- kind of a cupping, feathering wear. I have new shocks, new tires...would you recommend cranking the torsion bars to eliminate this wear, or is there something else I should check? My buddy has a 2002 Expedition, and his tires are doing the same thing. THanks, Lance