OK members, several of us have lifted our trucks, and I along with other have now a axle wrap problem. The problem is when you go forward and give it gas, their is a thunk after you get on the gas..Sometimes during a quick stop. Anybody have a solution to the problem. Traction bar-brace or anything? If you know of a site that has stuff for sale that will help us please post your answer. Anything will help....Thanks all, Dave

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[IMG]//albums.photopoint.com/j/Thumbnail?u=688963&a=5018235&p=19970291&Width=100& Height=100&Sequence=0[/IMG]
1998 F-150, SC/Flairside,oxford white 4x2,4.6,auto,3.55s,nerf bars,cls 111 towing,bed liner w/mat,atlas polished wheels w/285/75 R/16 BFG A/Ts (black side out),all plastics guards/bug shields,air raid/k & n filter, superchipped, duals out the back corners, flow master 3 chamber, snug top lid, f-150 online sticker back window-honk if you see me!!! Fabtech 3 1/2 lift .coverking dash cover, Lumi Logo's (front and rear), clear front corner lenses, muth mirrors,3" bullseye spindles, dash mounted CB, (TX Chapter requirement,lol),personalized license plates.

San Antonio
DWESSELS89@AOL.COM

 

Davensa-
Are your rear bolcks shimmed or angled properly? If not your pinion angle will be off and cause problems. If they are the proper solution is to order a custom driveshaft that is longer and designed to correct this problem. This problem is more common on Jeeps when installing a large lift. Traction bars would also help by keeping the axle from moving as much. find someone who has some back copies of Fourwheeler Magazine, they discuss this in many issues. Hope this helps a little.

 

I believe the blocks are in right, but I am going back to the installer on Thursday to check into it better and maybe look into traction bars......Thanks Dave

 

If you have 2" lift blocks you could replace them with a traction/lift. You could also use a kicker shock,traction bar or a ladder bar set-up. I've been thinking of getting something because I have some nasty wheel hop in wet weather.

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GOLD RUSH
'99 F150 XLT SC SB 5.4x2 Harvest Gold
3.55 limited slip/ trailer towing package/slip on extender mirrors/powerstop brake controller/Covermaster 1000 topper with wing/BugflectorII/Ventvisors (front&rear)/3www.f150online.com decals/Ford Lumi Logo/Steelhorse Billet grill


firezapper@home.com


[This message has been edited by Firezap (edited 05-03-2000).]

 

Actually I have 5-6 inch blockes in the back...I am wondering if anyone else has this traction set up..cost..name brand..everything that will help us. Even if I have to make it myself..

Gimpkiller,
If you are out there, I know you have made one..more photos please, of diagram...Dave

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1998 F-150, SC/Flairside,oxford white 4x2,4.6,auto,3.55s,nerf bars,cls 111 towing,bed liner w/mat,atlas polished wheels w/285/75 R/16 BFG A/Ts (black side out),all plastics guards/bug shields,air raid/k & n filter, superchipped, duals out the back corners, flow master 3 chamber, snug top lid, f-150 online sticker back window-honk if you see me!!! Fabtech 3 1/2 lift .coverking dash cover, Lumi Logo's (front and rear), clear front corner lenses, muth mirrors,3" bullseye spindles, dash mounted CB, (TX Chapter requirement,lol),personalized license plates.

San Antonio
DWESSELS89@AOL.COM

 

The following was found elsewhere on the web, anybody have these? TRACTION BARS: Super-trac™ traction bars by Superlift can withstand the tremendous torque loads generated by high output engines and large tires. With Superlift's design, the bars' rear-end attaching points are incorporated into replacement U-bolt plates. To further enhance strength and rigidity, the traction rod eyes are supported on both sides. Front mounting brackets feature a slotted hole which enables you to control the amount of rear suspension wrap-up and dial-in the desired degree of "launch". This prevents excessive wrap-up without restricting suspension travel. These are not compatible with contact overload springs.
GM/Ford--$204.00
Dodge/Toyota--$224.00

Thanks again, Dave

 

Here are some Procomp trac bars or ladder bars as they are commonly called. I have no idea on cost. That guy Fordman has some though.

 

ccla Macromotive.com http://www.macromotive.com/shopping/...1.107.0.2566.0 has that exact set-up for $340.00

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GOLD RUSH
'99 F150 XLT SC SB 5.4x2 Harvest Gold
3.55 limited slip/ trailer towing package/slip on extender mirrors/powerstop brake controller/Covermaster 1000 topper with wing/BugflectorII/Ventvisors (front&rear)/3www.f150online.com decals/Ford Lumi Logo/Steelhorse Billet grill


firezapper@home.com


[This message has been edited by Firezap (edited 05-03-2000).]

 

Im sure youre blocks are in right I was wondering if they are "shimmed" or angle cut on the top to twist the differential back into aling as much as possible. Traction bars will help but will never completely solve the problem. The driveshaft has to be brought back to the proper angle to fix the problem for good. On most lift kits this is accomplished by installing spacers that separate the Transfer case/Transmission bracket from the frame(basically dropping the whole assembly back to stock height while everything else stays lifted) which helps reset the angle close to normal. Since yours is 2wd im not sure if this can be done but you might want to look into it along with the traction bars. If the pinion angle is way off it can lead to premature driveshaft failure. If you look at the recent issue of Fourwheeler I found an article installing a lift on a new GMC and they had to shim the transfer case and realign the diffs to avoid buying a new driveshaft. Maybe you just need to let a good lift shop look at it, you might be able to have it fixed properly for the price of a traction kit. Hope this helps a little more.

 

I got ya, I understand what you are saying 100%. My dif is sitting at a angle already and I dont think its binding at all, but I am going to the shop tomorrow to see what the experts say. I will fill you all in. If nothing else the traction bars will look good, lol. And I want to change gears anyway. Thanks for the help guys, Dave

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1998 F-150, SC/Flairside,oxford white 4x2,4.6,auto,3.55s,nerf bars,cls 111 towing,bed liner w/mat,atlas polished wheels w/285/75 R/16 BFG A/Ts (black side out),all plastics guards/bug shields,air raid/k & n filter, superchipped, duals out the back corners, flow master 3 chamber, snug top lid, f-150 online sticker back window-honk if you see me!!! Fabtech 3 1/2 lift .coverking dash cover, Lumi Logo's (front and rear), clear front corner lenses, muth mirrors,3" bullseye spindles, dash mounted CB, (TX Chapter requirement,lol),personalized license plates.

San Antonio
DWESSELS89@AOL.COM

 

Davensa,
Man is this noise is really starting to both me. I took my truck in today to the shop where I had my lift put on and spoke with the mech. He is shocked!!! Doesn't understand why I have the noise. He suggested that a put a shim in to help w/the angle. I also was told by 4wheel parts that I needed traction bars @ $300 !!! Help!!! I would like to take it to Ford but we all know what they would say, "If you hadn't put that lift on..." Anyway I hope that someone comes up w/ a solution fast. I'm affraid that it is damaging my rearend gearing or something!

 

Dirtracker,
I too have talked to the installers and got the same answer. Traction bars, or you need to beef up the springs. Does yours only do it on heavy acceleration? Mine doesnt do it all the time just on heavy loads. Will keep you posted.....Dave

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1998 F-150, SC/Flairside,oxford white 4x2,4.6,auto,3.55s,nerf bars,cls 111 towing,bed liner w/mat,atlas polished wheels w/285/75 R/16 BFG A/Ts (black side out),all plastics guards/bug shields,air raid/k & n filter, superchipped, duals out the back corners, flow master 3 chamber, snug top lid, f-150 online sticker back window-honk if you see me!!! Fabtech 3 1/2 lift .coverking dash cover, Lumi Logo's (front and rear), clear front corner lenses, muth mirrors,3" bullseye spindles, dash mounted CB, (TX Chapter requirement,lol),personalized license plates.

San Antonio
DWESSELS89@AOL.COM

 

Shims would definitely help. You could also look into rear lift springs from someone like National Spring[(619)-441-1901] but that could get expensive. Might contact Fabtech and see what they offer or what they have done in the past. Keep me updated as to how you fix this problem.

 

Dont think shims will help me, everything of mine is lined up real good. I believe the problem is weak springs on the f150 is self, not made to be lifted. I think I will go with the traction bar set up, comes with 4 additional shocks. So it will have 6 shocks in the back..Think this will do the trick......It also isnt cheap.....Dave

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1998 F-150, SC/Flairside,oxford white 4x2,4.6,auto,3.55s,nerf bars,cls 111 towing,bed liner w/mat,atlas polished wheels w/285/75 R/16 BFG A/Ts (black side out),all plastics guards/bug shields,air raid/k & n filter, superchipped, duals out the back corners, flow master 3 chamber, snug top lid, f-150 online sticker back window-honk if you see me!!! Fabtech 3 1/2 lift .coverking dash cover, Lumi Logo's (front and rear), clear front corner lenses, muth mirrors,3" bullseye spindles, dash mounted CB, (TX Chapter requirement,lol),personalized license plates.

San Antonio
DWESSELS89@AOL.COM

 

Dave-
How long have you had this problem? I'm just wondering if I have this problem to look forward to with my spindle lift? I've been listening for a noise but haven't heard anything yet. Is this an obvious noise or do you really have to listen? Thanks.