For you guys out there who had lowered their F-150s, through your experience was it better to used the air chisel on the hangers rivets or the angle grinder to grind the huge rivets out? I'm ready to do the 2/4 drop this weekend and those are the two tools left I'm negotiating on. I already got the spring compressor and the pitman arm puller. Any advise and inputs are deeply appreciated.Thanks.steve

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1997 XLT Supercab emerald green,4.6 auto superchip, rear dual exhaust, Atlas wheels w HP 275/60/17 tires, Lund steps and quarter window shades, Outland grille guard w KC daylighters, piaa 1000 in bumpers openings, Trenz billet grille, edlebrock ISA shocks, Powerslider, stainless steel fender trim, Delta toolbox, putco bars, fluidyne cooler, Airaid kit, Gentex electronic compass dimming mirror,Downey SST tonneau cover, Snugtop topgun is on the way, customize hood next.

 

MIF-150, let us know how it goes.... I am getting ready to lower my truck very soon and will do it myself. Pitman arm puller? I didn't know you needed one when lowering a F150.

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99 F150 XLT Silver 2WD S/C 4.2 5-speed, Superchip, Flowmaster muffler // Rear door switch guards - check them out at http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/show/5031

 

Darin, I read on the factory manual the pitman puller will fit on the both balljoints and the tierods. So less banging with the hammer. I'm stilling waiting if any more reply on the grinding or chisel thing.
I'll let you know after I get it lowered, Darin.

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1997 XLT Supercab emerald green,4.6 auto superchip, rear dual exhaust, Atlas wheels w HP 275/60/17 tires, Lund steps and quarter window shades, Outland grille guard w KC daylighters, piaa 1000 in bumpers openings, Trenz billet grille, edlebrock ISA shocks, Powerslider, stainless steel fender trim, Delta toolbox, putco bars, fluidyne cooler, Airaid kit, Gentex electronic compass dimming mirror,Downey SST tonneau cover, Snugtop topgun is on the way, customize hood next.

 

MIF-150, When I did my Mustang springs I did not have to touch the ball joints I am not saying you won't on a F150 but I would be surprised. If you have a quality spring compressor you should be able to get away with just removing the shock. In regards to grinder or chisel... have you thought about drilling the rivets out? Found this info from a post by Cableguy under the topic Drop kit -- The rear shackles took only about an hour, as far as the hangers (what a *^%&^%), that took about 4 hours. You have to drill (starting small and then gain in size, don't over size the last one though), then grind it flush, and beat the geebers out of the hangers to get them off. Raising and lowering the jack VERY carefully poped it off near the end (big help). The front coils only took about a 1/2 hr. each, no problems.

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99 F150 XLT Silver 2WD S/C 4.2 5-speed, Superchip, Flowmaster muffler // Rear door switch guards - check them out at http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/show/5031

[This message has been edited by Darin (edited 08-12-1999).]

 

Darin, I'm not removing the balljoints, I'm just using it to separate the control arm so the springs can pop out. On the post about the 4 hours on the hangers. I don't want to go through that. I saw the program Trucks! on TNN and the guy used a grinder to grind it off. On the other hand, the store that sold me the kit advised me to use a air chisel. That is why I'm asking on this post what is better so I don't have to go through the 4 hours process on the hangers. steve

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1997 XLT Supercab emerald green,4.6 auto superchip, rear dual exhaust, Atlas wheels w HP 275/60/17 tires, Lund steps and quarter window shades, Outland grille guard w KC daylighters, piaa 1000 in bumpers openings, Trenz billet grille, edlebrock ISA shocks, Powerslider, stainless steel fender trim, Delta toolbox, putco bars, fluidyne cooler, Airaid kit, Gentex electronic compass dimming mirror,Downey SST tonneau cover, Snugtop topgun is on the way, customize hood next.



[This message has been edited by MIF-150 (edited 08-12-1999).]

 

I'm not sure what rivets you guys are talking about. But, I've changed lots of riveted ball joints. I tried to use a air hammer once. It took forever. The air chisel just seemed to smear the metal around. I've always had the best luck with a die grinder with a 3" fiber cut off saw(wizzer wheel).

 

When I removed the factory hangers, I tried a grinder, an airchisel, and ended up drilling them out anyway. The problem is that you can take the heads off of them, but the rivets will still not fall out because they are sholdered on both sides. As far as coil springs, jack the truck up, remove the tire, place jack under the center of the lower control arm. Put just a wee little bit of tension on the spring. Now unbolt the two back bolts that hold the lower control arm on and slowly let the jack down. The reason this works is because the spring fully extends when there is no weight on the front corner. I almost got mine out without unbolting the lower control arm.