My 99 F-150 sits lower in the front than the back (as we all know). What are my options as far as leveling it? I would like to do it the cheapest, easiest way, and without voiding my warranty if possible.

See my truck specs below.

Thanks.


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1999 F-150 XLT Styleside, Black On Black, SuperCab, Short Bed, 4x4, ORP, 4.6L Auto, 3.55LS

Add-Ons: Extang Soft Tonneau, DrawTite Class III Hitch, Smittybilt Grill Guard/Brush Guards, KC Daylighters, Custom Dual Exhaust-Straight Out The Back, Airaid FIPK, SuperChips Chip, Bug Deflector

 

Well your truck is a 4x4 so you could just crank up the torsion bars till it's level.

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98 F150 2WD,Bright Red, Regular Cab, 4.2, 3.55, Superchip, 3 Inch Bullseye Lift Spindles, Manik Grill Guard,Nerf Bars, Vent Visors, Fog lights, Kc Lights, Alpine CD Player, 2 Kenwood Amps, Tinted Windows. And Coming Soon: 3&1/2 Inch Fabtech Lift Kit, 16x8 American Racing Baja Wheels Wrapped With 33's

 

Any instructional pages on-line that detail how to do this? (I'm no mechanic, by ANY stretch of the imagination.)

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1999 F-150 XLT Styleside, Black On Black, SuperCab, Short Bed, 4x4, ORP, 4.6L Auto, 3.55LS

Add-Ons: Extang Soft Tonneau, DrawTite Class III Hitch, Smittybilt Grill Guard/Brush Guards, KC Daylighters, Custom Dual Exhaust-Straight Out The Back, Airaid FIPK, SuperChips Chip, Bug Deflector

 

I'm with Conqsoft on this "distraction" except my truck is a 2-wheel drive 4.2 swb. I had a buddy tell me to remove one of the leaf springs. If so, which one and what will be the disadvantages to doing this? Any input will be appreciated. The truck runs and drives perfect. But I would like to make the truck look level. Thanks in advance.

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1998 F150 xl reg. cab, 4.2L, 3.55
gear, auto, Lund tonneau bed cover, Pioneer CD receiver, EVERYTHING on the truck is black(including bumpers, grille, handles), aluminum wheels, K&N filter.

 

HI!... TODD212809 your friend is totally wrong. What ever you do, DO NOT REMOVE a leaf.If you do your towing capability will drop severely, so will your payload. your truck will have a terrible ride feel.You will most likely void your warrenty. By removing one or more leafs from the leaf spring bundle, you are putting extreme preasure on the remaining leafs and they were not designed to take the weight of your truck and what it is designed for.Now back to your question.To level my truck I used a set of BELLTECH 2" lowering shackles. The truck sits level and best of all it does'nt effect your ride or towing and payload capabilities.The part # is BEL-6400 and it's about $65.00U.S and takes about 25 minutes to install.After that you should try to get a HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, it will make a big difference as well. Hope this info helps you out.

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NEAL [ the horsepower freak ] NEWMAN
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 3.55L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, **** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, AUTOMETER guage pod and tranny temp guage, custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, SUPERCHIP (truck won't start,"DAM"!!, soon to be installed 4.10 gears.

 

Neal,
I sure do appreciate the recommendation on the leaf spring topic that I posted. This web site should be treasured by all who view it because of the loyal members like yourself. Where else can you go and get "friendly, knowledgeable, and free service?" Thanks to you and
150online.com. I will install these new "toys" this weekend.

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1998 F150 xl reg. cab, 4.2L, 3.55
gear, auto, Lund tonneau bed cover, Pioneer CD receiver, EVERYTHING on the truck is black(including bumpers, grille, handles), aluminum wheels, K&N filter.

 

So, what are the rammifications of cranking the torsion bars?



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1999 F-150 XLT Styleside, Black On Black, SuperCab, Short Bed, 4x4, ORP, 4.6L Auto, 3.55LS

Add-Ons: Extang Soft Tonneau, DrawTite Class III Hitch, Smittybilt Outland Grill Guard/Brush Guards, KC Daylighters, Custom Dual Exhaust-Straight Out The Back, Airaid FIPK, SuperChips Chip, Bug Deflector

 

From what I've seen you will have a slightly harsher ride in front and possibly a slight increase in tire wear (not enough to worry about). People do this when they install a heavy winch and grill guard combo. If you do it just remember to crank each side equally (count each turn of the wrench) or you will have uneven tire wear and poor handling.

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'99 F150 XLT SC SB 5.4x2
3.55 limited slip trailer towing
Harvest Gold
Covermaster 1000 topper w/ wing
BugflectorII

 

Ok. Sounds good. (Since I have a grill guard already, and will be adding a Warn 9000i soon.)

So. Now. Where/what are the torsion bars?


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1999 F-150 XLT Styleside, Black On Black, SuperCab, Short Bed, 4x4, ORP, 4.6L Auto, 3.55LS

Add-Ons: Extang Soft Tonneau, DrawTite Class III Hitch, Smittybilt Outland Grill Guard/Brush Guards, KC Daylighters, Custom Dual Exhaust-Straight Out The Back, Airaid FIPK, SuperChips Chip, Bug Deflector

 

When you tighten your torsion bars you are changing the front end settings on your truck. If they are tightened any amount, you should have your alignment checked. Tightening the bars not only affects alignment, it also affects other front end parts. This includes: ball joints, idler arm, tie rod ends, and can also affect shocks also. This isn't to say that tightening the bars can't be done, just do it properly if you decide to do it at all.

 

HI!... So today I had the appointment from my dealer to bring my truck to the local spring shop to see what they could do for my saging leaf spring on the passenger side. I told the guy there that it has a 2" BELLTECH drop kit on the rear, but it actually needs a 3" inch drop to make the truck sit perfectly level.He also has a "98" F-150 EC,LB that he dropped 5" all the way around. Looked pretty good. So when he made the new leafs for the right side , he also "dearched" the left side slightly so the whole truck sits perfectly level. The truck really looks good now.

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NEAL [ the horsepower freak ] NEWMAN
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 3.55L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, **** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, AUTOMETER guage pod and tranny temp guage, custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, SUPERCHIP (truck won't start,"DAM"!!, soon to be installed 4.10 gears.

 

Under the truck, about where the doors are, there should be a bar comming from the lower "A" arm. At the rear of this bar is a cross member, inside this cross member are the bolts. They are the ones to tighten. Only do a couple turns at a time. Tighten both the same turns then bounce the front a couple of time to get it to settle. WWBF150 is correct, anytime you change anything about the frontend it should be checked.

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'99 F150 XLT SC SB 5.4x2
3.55 limited slip trailer towing
Harvest Gold
Covermaster 1000 topper w/ wing
BugflectorII



[This message has been edited by Firezap (edited 07-30-1999).]