I was considering buying a belltech lowering kit for $440 from summit racing. However, i dont know how hard it would be to do the install myself. I have a complete set of tools like wreches floor jacks, but will i need any special tools to do this job? The kit comes with all the lowering hardware and the active shocks.

Thanks for your help!

- Rick -

 

I installed mine by myself and you dont need any special tools, it would help if you had a spring compressor but I just let the truck down slowly with the jack so the spring would compress slowly and once the stress was taken off, I pulled it out and put the new ones in, and I have factory airbags in the back and they are easily lowered with a small bracket.

 

Were there instructions that came with this kit? lol.

- Rick -

 

I just received my Belltech 3/4 last week and it had instructions... If it ever gets warm outside I'll install it..

ks

 

Somebody said i might need a tie rod tool for the fronts. He wasnt sure, but is this true?

Thanks again,

- Rick -

 

Like I said you might be able to use a pry bar, but a tie rod separator would be much nicer, and alot of part stores will let you rent them for not much money. I know autozone will let you rent them for free. You give them a deposit (the amount the tool is worth) and when you return it you get all your money back.

 

From the research I did in the archives last week the most difficult part of the install is removing the front leaf spring hangers. Apparently the factory rivets create new curse words to comeout during their removal I have an industrial die grinder and carbide bit that I will use so I'm not too concerned at this time..

I don't remember anybody needing to remove the tie rod ends tho but it prolly depends on if you remove the lower ball joint or upper ball joint.

ks

 

I don't know how or where you got the idea that your 2wd has front leaf springs. The only Ford trucks in the last 20 years to get front leaf springs is the 99+ Superduty 4x4s and the 80-96 F250/350 4x4s. Everything else is either coil sprung or torsion bar suspension depending on what truck and year you have. I can break it all down for you if you REALLY wanna know. But you do NOT have front leaves, you have front coils.

Now as far as separating the tie rod you may not have to if you separate just the bottom ball joint, but from my epxerience working on trucks this would be a MUCH easier job if you disconnected the whole spindle assembly from the truck. Just one less thing to try and manuver parts around. Yes its a little more work, but its not that hard to pull it the rest of the way off. All it takes to pull the spindle assembly is pulling off the caliper (2 bolts) and then take off the king nuts from the tie rod end, upper and lower ball joints, then use a tie rod separator or pry bar to pry them lose, and then before all this has been done remove the shocks. Just make sure you have a jack underneath the bottom A-arm so when you disconnect that lower ball joint the force of the spring doesn't shoot it out.

Now what you said about drilling the rivets is true, they'll be a bitch to take out and you'll more than likely much a drill bit or two in the process. Now you WOULD have to drill the rivets on the REAR leaf spring hangers when you go to replace those. But there is NO leaf springs on the front.

 

I Think he ment the front of the rear leaf springs. or, thats what I inetially thought when I read the post.

 

YOU'RE A DORK!!!!!!!


Correct..

 

Better watch it there kid. You'd be suprised at the number of people who come here thinking that. And the way I read your post it sounded like you were another one.

You'd better watch the attacks there or you may be in for a rough ride here. You obviously can't tell the difference between posting information and a slam. My post was not a slam at you, if I'd wanted to do that I'd have said something along the lines of "What can you expect from a person from Lincoln, NE nothing good has come out of there" but I didn't. What I posted was just information about suspension. From here on you better watch your tounge, cause newbies who come here shooting their mouth off don't usually get much of a warm reception.

 

Alright Powerstroke, way to tell that hot head.

Thanks for the help and all Kevin, but ive been talking to Powerstroke on aol instant messanger lately about this drop kit, and he really knows his stuff. So lets just all get along, its not like he is a loyal chevy owner, so treat everybody here as fellow Ford owners.

- Rick -

 

hmm.. what appears to be another poor assumption on your part..

I don't care about how much experience you have. I know more "Newbies" that have more dignity than some people with thousands of posts. If you automatically believe that everyone that posts a question is a punk kid and deserves a snotty reply without any forethought on your part then I have no respect for ya. Ditto on the attempt on the slam about where I live which YOU brought up. From YOUR words others must think the same thing that I do.
Life is too short to argue over the petty things so this is the last of it from me. I came here to gather info and pass info along.

Rick, My sincere appologies for dirtying up your thread. As a moderator myself I hate this crap when it goes on.

Peace.
ks

 

Even if f150Nascaro4, has already received the needed help, I would like to post so that someone does not get hurt when dealing with the front coil springs at least on a late model F-150.

1. THe front coil springs are under high tension. The coil spring is held in place by an upper and lower control arm and a spindle. To relieve this dangerous tension, you can LOOSEN the nut on the lower ball joint, BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT YET! Leave the nut threaded at least the depth of the nut. Then use a pulley puller (some use a hammer) to unseat the control arm-spindle assembly from the ball joint bolt. The tension from the spring will slam the spindle into the nut that you left threaded on the bolt. YOU may also wish to use a spring compressior as well. BUT, REMBER, IF YOU DO NOT LEAVE THE NUT THREADED THE SPRING COULD FLY OUT AND INJURE OR WORSE! (you will need two floor jacks to do this properly)

If you do not take the proper safety precautions and do not understand the proceedures, don't do it! If you intend to, read and understand your repair manuals, and consult experts. However, if you understand how to do it, it is no big deal.

2. The hardest part of a standard lowering kit install is the Rear Front hanger RIVETS! The cheapest fastest way, is to grind the rivets flush to the frame and while they are hot, hit the rivet with a small socket as a center punch with the shortest handled heaviest headed sledge hammer (not much space to work). The key to rivet removal is to get them as hot as possible. But, using a torch near a gas tank could be very dangerous!!!... so just grind on them until they are flush and hot and then immediately begin to knock them out.

Best way is to have a shop at least remove the rivets and install new rear front hanger. Or do not remove the rivets and rear front hangers and just get some lowering leaf springs.


NOTE: I am not an expert and my statements should not be used as a guide. ALways seek expert advice before attempting a potentially dangerous proceedure such as these.

 

Call 734-466-6253 ask for Eric you can get the kit for $675 usually $1200... You'll have it installed in HALF the time ..WITHOUT a torch or air chisle it uses rear leaf replacments.. ....Just trying to help avoid the hanger nightmare! You dont need a spring compressor either! You might want to remove the front shocks first then stick a good sized chain down through the A arms and coil where the shock was then lock it...it will keep the coil from shooting out if your really worried about that.....