How much will it settle? just cut stock springs
How much will it settle? just cut stock springs
I just cut 9/16 of a coil off my stock 35k mile front spring. Dropped it 3/4". I've only driven it a mile, will it settle and get any lower? if so how much?
I am really looking for a 1-1.25" drop.
I am also installing L shocks at the same time and trimmed 1/2" off the factory bump stop.
I am really looking for a 1-1.25" drop.
I am also installing L shocks at the same time and trimmed 1/2" off the factory bump stop.
Originally posted by racer47
Hows the ride quality effected ?
Hows the ride quality effected ?
It should not settle any with that mileage on it . They have already settled all that they will....I think.
Unless you cut with a torch, then the heat may have weakende them.
When you get both sides cut you will see the true drop. With only one side done,,the other side is still holding you up a little. I bet when you cut the second side ,,you will see the first side drop a little more.
I have experience in this area, setting up race cars that have to run stock suspensions.
racer47
Unless you cut with a torch, then the heat may have weakende them.
When you get both sides cut you will see the true drop. With only one side done,,the other side is still holding you up a little. I bet when you cut the second side ,,you will see the first side drop a little more.
I have experience in this area, setting up race cars that have to run stock suspensions.
racer47
Good points.
I didn't use a torch, sawzall didn't like them so I got out the air cut off tool (grinder type thing).
My car has settled 1/8" after changing suspension setups (but using the same springs). I've got a 60mile drive tomorrow, I'll see if its any lower when I get home.
Right, the other side could be holding it up.
I didn't use a torch, sawzall didn't like them so I got out the air cut off tool (grinder type thing).
My car has settled 1/8" after changing suspension setups (but using the same springs). I've got a 60mile drive tomorrow, I'll see if its any lower when I get home.
Right, the other side could be holding it up.
The cut-off wheel is the best tool to use to cut coil springs IMO. You can use the piece you cut off the first coil to measure the other one, this helps to ensure that you cut equal amounts off both coils.
It wont settle much but be prepared for a stiffer ride.
Good luck.
It wont settle much but be prepared for a stiffer ride.
Good luck.
OH MAN! I am glad I found this thread............
Even after bigger swaybars, djm lowering kit, hardbed cover, and lower profile, 52 psi tires........I still have far too much body roll in cross winds in my 99' f150 supercab flareside 4.6. It feels like my shocks and or springs have weakened over a few months. I should have saved and waited to buy a quality Belltech kit from this sites online store!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I need stiffer front coils and stiffer shocks. Area 52 was correct from the start.
I was going to cutt my DJM 2 inch drop front coil springs to get a 3 inch drop and trash the 5 month old toxic shocks for either some stock lightning Bilsteins or nitro active shocks.
Does anyone know the following:
1. Will cutting the DJM 2 inch drop coil spring to a 3 inch drop cause the spring to be "softer" or "stiffer" or no change?????
2. what is stiffer, a DJM 2 inch drop coil that has been cut to a 3 inch drop or a Belltech 3 inch drop coil??????????????????
3. What is the stiffest shock for a 3 inch lowering front lowering, a stock Lightning Bilstien or a nitro active drop shock
Any help is appreciated!!!!!!!!

NOTE: Found answers to coil questions in the Suspension thread, "Just another inch" by scarecrow!
Even after bigger swaybars, djm lowering kit, hardbed cover, and lower profile, 52 psi tires........I still have far too much body roll in cross winds in my 99' f150 supercab flareside 4.6. It feels like my shocks and or springs have weakened over a few months. I should have saved and waited to buy a quality Belltech kit from this sites online store!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I need stiffer front coils and stiffer shocks. Area 52 was correct from the start.
I was going to cutt my DJM 2 inch drop front coil springs to get a 3 inch drop and trash the 5 month old toxic shocks for either some stock lightning Bilsteins or nitro active shocks.
Does anyone know the following:
1. Will cutting the DJM 2 inch drop coil spring to a 3 inch drop cause the spring to be "softer" or "stiffer" or no change?????
2. what is stiffer, a DJM 2 inch drop coil that has been cut to a 3 inch drop or a Belltech 3 inch drop coil??????????????????
3. What is the stiffest shock for a 3 inch lowering front lowering, a stock Lightning Bilstien or a nitro active drop shock
Any help is appreciated!!!!!!!!

NOTE: Found answers to coil questions in the Suspension thread, "Just another inch" by scarecrow!
Last edited by iron horse; Feb 7, 2003 at 01:05 PM.
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I got 1.5" from cutting 3/4 of a coil in the front.
I got 1.5" from making the stock shackles longer, they clear the bed by about 3/16". I was hoping for more lowering from them, oh well.
I got 1.5" from making the stock shackles longer, they clear the bed by about 3/16". I was hoping for more lowering from them, oh well.
On a 99' F-150 supercab flarside 4.6, after the springs settled and seated after a weeks of driving I got a 3.25 inch drop (or 1/4 of an inch lower than the drop provided by BellTech 3 inch lowering coils) from cutting 1.25 coils from each of a STOCK pair of coil springs.
Cutting 1 full coil gave me the same drop as DJM 2 inch lowering coils provided.
Removing 1.5 coils per coil spring is "unalignable" (yeah I trashed two sets before I got it right!)
For me, cutting the coils and greatly increasing the spring rate and making them much stiffer, was the best thing I have done so far, for reducing cross-wind body roll (and I already had a lowering kit, shocks, harder sidewall, wider, lower profile tires, front and rear swaybars and hard bed cover). The down side is, you will feel every bump in the road.
Cutting 1 full coil gave me the same drop as DJM 2 inch lowering coils provided.
Removing 1.5 coils per coil spring is "unalignable" (yeah I trashed two sets before I got it right!)
For me, cutting the coils and greatly increasing the spring rate and making them much stiffer, was the best thing I have done so far, for reducing cross-wind body roll (and I already had a lowering kit, shocks, harder sidewall, wider, lower profile tires, front and rear swaybars and hard bed cover). The down side is, you will feel every bump in the road.
Originally posted by iron horse
On a 99' F-150 supercab flarside 4.6, after the springs settled and seated after a weeks of driving I got a 3.25 inch drop (or 1/4 of an inch lower than the drop provided by BellTech 3 inch lowering coils) from cutting 1.25 coils from each of a STOCK pair of coil springs.
Cutting 1 full coil gave me the same drop as DJM 2 inch lowering coils provided.
Removing 1.5 coils per coil spring is "unalignable" (yeah I trashed two sets before I got it right!)
For me, cutting the coils and greatly increasing the spring rate and making them much stiffer, was the best thing I have done so far, for reducing cross-wind body roll (and I already had a lowering kit, shocks, harder sidewall, wider, lower profile tires, front and rear swaybars and hard bed cover). The down side is, you will feel every bump in the road.
On a 99' F-150 supercab flarside 4.6, after the springs settled and seated after a weeks of driving I got a 3.25 inch drop (or 1/4 of an inch lower than the drop provided by BellTech 3 inch lowering coils) from cutting 1.25 coils from each of a STOCK pair of coil springs.
Cutting 1 full coil gave me the same drop as DJM 2 inch lowering coils provided.
Removing 1.5 coils per coil spring is "unalignable" (yeah I trashed two sets before I got it right!)
For me, cutting the coils and greatly increasing the spring rate and making them much stiffer, was the best thing I have done so far, for reducing cross-wind body roll (and I already had a lowering kit, shocks, harder sidewall, wider, lower profile tires, front and rear swaybars and hard bed cover). The down side is, you will feel every bump in the road.
iron horse, I think it's about time you break out the welder, buy some 1/2" iron rod, and weld a piece on either side of the front springs, making sure to hit each coil. On the rear, you could just take the springs out, and weld the axle to the frame with a spacer to get the desired effect
Sorry man, you must have the stiffest riding, best handling 150 on the boards already
,,,,98
Hey Screamer, long time no write!
Yeah it was very nice until........my cheapo Toxic shocks became weak. I still have a very stiff ride, but now I have a slightly bouncy yet hard hitting bump ride. I intend to get some stiff yet faster return rate shocks with more cushion over bumps ......if such a shock exists
Yeah it was very nice until........my cheapo Toxic shocks became weak. I still have a very stiff ride, but now I have a slightly bouncy yet hard hitting bump ride. I intend to get some stiff yet faster return rate shocks with more cushion over bumps ......if such a shock exists


