2001 5.4 engine with piston slap
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: BOSTON
Piston Slap 5.4 lt.
Mine just started doing this too,19,000 miles .I had it at the dealer wednesday , And They say piston slap is normal with the 5.4 lt. engine. no repair at this time , I guess when it reaching 36 k thens its on my money..
but for over $30k dollars for the truck this should not happen...
What else should I do? ,
I like the truck but it sound terrible.
Also I talked to a guy at Work with a 1997 F250 lightduty withover 100,000 miles ., his has no piston slap noise.
but for over $30k dollars for the truck this should not happen...
What else should I do? ,
I like the truck but it sound terrible.
Also I talked to a guy at Work with a 1997 F250 lightduty withover 100,000 miles ., his has no piston slap noise.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,247
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon, CA
I have almost 25000 miles on my 2001 5.4 SCREW and have not had any noise. I belive this is more a problem with the newer Chevy engines than the Ford engines. It normally is not a serious problem as it should go away within the first 30 seconds or a minute. If it stays around longer than that then you may have a problem.
Here is a copy and paste from a site I found about piston slap...
Piston slap occurs as the piston impacts the liner. When piston slap is present, a strong vibration spike will coincide with the maximum cylinder pressure or with the point of maximum piston side force. Excessive piston liner clearance, improper ring loading, detonation, and uneven cylinder fuel combustion may contribute to piston slap.
Piston and bore wear is characterised by piston slap, a light metallic rattle caused by the piston rocking in its bore at the top and bottom of each stroke. It is likely to be most noticeable when the engine is first started and will diminish as the piston warms up and expands. If you suspect piston slap, try pouring a little engine oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole. Refit the plug and start the engine. The oil will tend to damp out the worst of the noise for a few moments, after which it will be scraped off the cylinder walls and the noise will return. Another good indication can be gained by performing a compression test. Low compression is a good indicator of bore wear, and will often confirm your diagnosis of the noise. On four-strokes, add a little oil to each bore and repeat the compression check. If the reading improves, bore wear is confirmed, but if the same reading is found the compression loss may be due to leakage at the valves.
I use Kendal 5/20 GT1 and have had no engine issues at all.
But I dont think this is an oil issue for you. Just the factory tolerances were close on your block but not far off enough to toss it so you may have to live with the issue or get new cylinder liners etc.
luck
Here is a copy and paste from a site I found about piston slap...
Piston slap occurs as the piston impacts the liner. When piston slap is present, a strong vibration spike will coincide with the maximum cylinder pressure or with the point of maximum piston side force. Excessive piston liner clearance, improper ring loading, detonation, and uneven cylinder fuel combustion may contribute to piston slap.
Piston and bore wear is characterised by piston slap, a light metallic rattle caused by the piston rocking in its bore at the top and bottom of each stroke. It is likely to be most noticeable when the engine is first started and will diminish as the piston warms up and expands. If you suspect piston slap, try pouring a little engine oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole. Refit the plug and start the engine. The oil will tend to damp out the worst of the noise for a few moments, after which it will be scraped off the cylinder walls and the noise will return. Another good indication can be gained by performing a compression test. Low compression is a good indicator of bore wear, and will often confirm your diagnosis of the noise. On four-strokes, add a little oil to each bore and repeat the compression check. If the reading improves, bore wear is confirmed, but if the same reading is found the compression loss may be due to leakage at the valves.
I use Kendal 5/20 GT1 and have had no engine issues at all.
But I dont think this is an oil issue for you. Just the factory tolerances were close on your block but not far off enough to toss it so you may have to live with the issue or get new cylinder liners etc.
luck