OK, here's the story. I really wanna see if anyone has caught this yet. Got my '02 Screw 5.4L in May and changed the oil for the first time a few weeks ago. It came from the factory with a FL-820S oil filter. I mean a filter with the labels and everything on it as opposed to a solid grey filter like you used to get. I took it off and proceeded to pour oil into the new filter before I put it on. Well, as I was pulling the new FL-820S filter (from Wally-World) out of the box, I noticed something was different right away. It was very obvious too, not something that took alot of research or a magnafiying glass to catch. The two filters were different, completely different. Here's how...

Old factory installed FL-820S-
very heavy, solid construction
gasket was pressed into filter, could not pull off
oil entry holes were round w/one larger than all the rest
top plate where entry holes are constructed very solid looking
had "zz" printed in the top piece where the oil entry holes are
(very similar in appearance/construction on this part to a
Mobil 1 M210 [I think] filter)
center threads were very solid construction with a minimum of
7-9 threads showing

New Auto parts bought FL-820S-
very poor, cheap construction...in comparison to above filter
gasket easily removable from filter. Pulled right out, pressed
back in
oil entry holes were square, all same size close to center
top plate where entry hole are constructed cheap looking in
comparison to above filter
no markings on top plate. Looked like any other FL-820S
center threads poor construction in comparison with a
maximum of 3-4 threads showing

Sorry I don't have any photos. Working on that now.

I have searched every autoparts house, dealer, store, you name it and every FL-820S filter I find looks just like the bottom one described. I can not find one that looks like the original filter anywhere. I took the old filter to the parts manager to show him and he was literally speechless at the difference in these two filters. He couldn't believe the difference in quality and construction, witht the old filter being FAR superior. He didn't have a clue. Had never seen such before. Very great guy though. He kept the filter and is going to get with his distributors or who ever else he needs to to find out something. He promised me he would figure out what was going on and get me an answer. I believe him because he new better than to BS me because he knew I knew what I was talking about.

Has anyone seen/noticed this?? I would love to find out because I would sure rather change my oil with that filter over the ones we have been buying. Someone let me know if you have seen the filter I described.

I wish I could describe just how much of a difference there really was between these two filters. You wouldn't believe it. And the outsides looked just alike. Same labels and everything. I think the only difference was the original filers lettering was all black were the new ones has Motorcraft in red or something along those lines, but anyways. I'll try to get pictures here sometime for anyone who has doubts. Thanks for the help on this if anyone's got any ideas.

 

Why does it matter?

(im not trying to sound like a *****, but in the last 8 years working at a dealership, we've put on hundreds of thousands of fl-820s, 400s, 1as, 200s, 300s, 2005s, etc. and never had any kind of problem or failure due to lesser filter housing quality. The metal case being cheaper doesnt mean that the filter material is any worse. )

 

Just curious man...I like to know the answer to things that are different. Espicially when they effect my automobile. If I can get a superior product, regardless of problems (or lack of them)with the cheaper of the two, I'll take it. You work at a dealership, why don't you get us an answer.

 

Well, i had a hernia operation tuesday, so i wont be back to work for about 3 more weeks. But, my only guess would be that the vendors are just different for the factory supplied filters. Its not uncommon to open 2 same part nos. of anything and see small differences due to mutiple vendor supply. Like for example, plastic trim parts, two parts may look the same on one side, but the back sides may be different (reinforcement, casting marks). They will have the same part no., but have been suplplied by two different vendors. I dont know how to tell you to try to find out, and i doubt a dealership can find this type of thing out. And agian, i wasnt trying to sound like a a-hole when i said it doesnt matter.

 

I would assume that it has something to do with the assembly line process that requires a stronger casing (that gorilla machine that tightens the filter).

 

My guess is that your first filter is one of a limited production run of filters produced with higher cost materials (before mass production tooling was available). The round holes would lead me to believe they were drilled (the square holes would have to be stamped). The additional threads would also lead me to believe that they were tapped by machine, rather than formed by a press operation.

This type of cost reduction is quite normal in automotive production. It is not uncommon to "custom machine" parts before production stampings are available to meet schedules.

The more likely explanation is that the first (more labor intensive filter) was produced by an offshore (probably Asian) vendor who competes with lower labor costs versus automation. Personally, I prefer automation to labor for most parts. The inspection operations tend to be automated also.

 

Hey Galaxy, take a look at the message I posted back on June 27. Sound familiar???

"Thanks for all the good advice! I decided to change the oil and am glad I did. Even with only 800 miles on the engine I did notice very small metal particles in the bottom of the drain pan. I also noted that the oil was much darker than the new Motorcraft 5W-20 blend that I put in. Man, that stuff is like water!

One other thing that really ticked me off... the Motorcraft oil filter installed at the factory that I removed was a FL-820-S. This was a very rugged filter with about 4 to 5 female threads (to thread onto the filter stub) and had a very thick case and backplate. The after market filter I installed was also a Motorcraft, but the number was slightly different (FL-820S, no dash between the "820" and the "S") This filter was crap! It had, at most, 2-3 threads for engagement, wobbled on the threaded stub to the point I thought I was going to cross-thread the thing, and was so thin you could squeeze the canister with your hand! In the absence of any other filter I put it on. The next day I called several Ford dealerships and they all sell the crap filter! No one had the "rugged" Motorcraft filter. I also checked out several other brands of filters like Puolator's Pure One, Frams top of the line, Bosch, STP, etc. and except for Fram, they all have almost no threads and are nothing compared to the one I took off. I ruled out Fram though too since they have given me startup engine knock problems before on my '75 F-100.

To make a long story short, after making sure I would not void my new car warranty with the local dealer (for not using Motorcraft parts), I removed and trashed the Motorcraft FL-820S and bought and installed a Mobil 1 "M1-210" This Mobil 1 filter is definitely rugged, even more robust that the original Motorcraft I took off. It should be too since it cost $11.99! It was listed as an approved filter for the 4.6L.

Any idea where to get the same rugged Motorcraft filters the manufacturers install at the factory? If I could find them, I would use them in the future instead of the pricey Mobil 1 filter.

Has anyone else noticed how flimsy all the new filters are or am I just being overly ****? Anyone had any problems with them cross-threading, jumping a thread and coming loose, etc.?

Anyone else use the Mobil 1 filters on their F-150s?

Thanks again for all the good advice!"