First oil change
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: San Diego, CA
MikeF150 - thanks for the link to the fumoto valve. Looks like a great little product. But, for some reason it makes me nervous to think that anyone could just reach up and drain my oil - I know the odds are a million to 1 - call me paranoid 
I'm thinking if I get one, that I would use a peice of bailing wire to secure the valve handle in the closed position. So, that at least you would have to have something besides your barehands to drain the oil. Would also add a little more protectionwhen driving over bushes at the desert.
I'm thinking if I get one, that I would use a peice of bailing wire to secure the valve handle in the closed position. So, that at least you would have to have something besides your barehands to drain the oil. Would also add a little more protectionwhen driving over bushes at the desert.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Grand Rapids, MI USA
I didn't have any problems with the oil change either. I'm coming up on my second here very shortly. I have had tight filters in the past, and could never fit the stupid filter wrench in the tight spaces. As a fix for that I punctured the filter all the way through with a flat bladed screwdriver and used it as a lever to loosen it. It makes a mess, yes, but it is better than hassling with the filter wrench in such a tight space, and you have more control with it. Just a suggestion for those that won't come off, and you only have to clean up the first time, as you know better than to overtighten the thing again.
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My first oil change was a pain in the a$$. I have the 4x4 with 5.4L and there was hardly any room for the filter wrench. The oil filter was way tighter than it should have been. As far as the oil filter relocation kit from ford...that is a hole nother story. I looked into that and was told if you have the engine oil cooler you cannot get the remote oil filter and if you don't have the oil cooler the truck is supposed to come with the remote oil filter. So I bought a oil filter relocation kit and the fumoto valve from summit racing for $56. I'm just waiting for my next oil change to put it on.
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From: Atlanta
I am calculating fuel milage by taking the miles driven on the tank divided by the gallons I put into the tank right? I get an avg of 475 miles to a tank and put in 21.5 gallons. I drive mostly hwy at 60mph. My window sticker says 16 city and 20hwy but I also have the K&N FIPK so I guess that helps a bit. 
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Ah, Daveman, you are too easy, Friday night activities always includes an adjustable wrench and every Chevy I can find at the local mall. Its great, don't even have to be home to have fun. Any mall, anywhere will do, always plenty of Chevys.... 
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From: Chicago
Can't Be
I have the 5.4 and the best milage I ever got out of a tank was 325-330. If you are getting over four hundred you are a lucky man. I do not think there is another guy ot there getting over four hundred.
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mikef150
I got the single filter kit put out by summit racing equipment. I thought the dual filter was overkill especially since the kit uses a larger oil filter than the OEM. The best part about these kit is you put the filter where you want it instead of behind the bumper where ford puts it. There is another kit that I am considering putting on also. It is a remote mount spin on transmission fluid filter. It is sold by summit also and they say the filter is good for 50,000 miles.
I got the single filter kit put out by summit racing equipment. I thought the dual filter was overkill especially since the kit uses a larger oil filter than the OEM. The best part about these kit is you put the filter where you want it instead of behind the bumper where ford puts it. There is another kit that I am considering putting on also. It is a remote mount spin on transmission fluid filter. It is sold by summit also and they say the filter is good for 50,000 miles.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Wakuesha, WI
Well, I feel your pain also. Both my 2000 SCAB and 2001 SCREW first oil changes were a bitch-- no oil on the filter seal obviously. In fact, I had to take the skid plate off on my 2000 the first time.
Well, as some of the others mention, I get at the filter from below, that seems to work best for me. Now it's not such a bad job, just takes some getting used to I guess.
On the mileage subject, my 2000 was a 4.6, auto, 4x4, and I'd get between 13.5~16 in the 28k I put on while we owned it. My '01 Screw is a 5.4, auto, 4x4-- pretty much the same truck in terms of equipment. With only 5k miles thus far, low was 12.8, high was 15. We really haven't taken any real long trips, and I think the mileage will probably improve a bit more by 10k. After that it should be pretty stable.
IMHO, if you drive both engines the same, the mileage difference is negligible. I opted for the 4.6 the first time, figuring the extra 1mpg city/hwy would add up over the life, but since I didn't usually hit those numbers, I opted for the 5.4 the second time. For the record, my first new car (94 Mazda Protege) typically got 2~3 mpg more than the EPA ratings both city and highway. Just goes to show, it's only a guide-- every truck is different.
Later!
Well, as some of the others mention, I get at the filter from below, that seems to work best for me. Now it's not such a bad job, just takes some getting used to I guess.
On the mileage subject, my 2000 was a 4.6, auto, 4x4, and I'd get between 13.5~16 in the 28k I put on while we owned it. My '01 Screw is a 5.4, auto, 4x4-- pretty much the same truck in terms of equipment. With only 5k miles thus far, low was 12.8, high was 15. We really haven't taken any real long trips, and I think the mileage will probably improve a bit more by 10k. After that it should be pretty stable.
IMHO, if you drive both engines the same, the mileage difference is negligible. I opted for the 4.6 the first time, figuring the extra 1mpg city/hwy would add up over the life, but since I didn't usually hit those numbers, I opted for the 5.4 the second time. For the record, my first new car (94 Mazda Protege) typically got 2~3 mpg more than the EPA ratings both city and highway. Just goes to show, it's only a guide-- every truck is different.
Later!
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Orange County, CA
In my experience, EPA numbers mean nothing. For example, on my 01 Gen III 5.4 2wd Screw, the sticker said 16-19 (as I remember it) The best I've EVER seen is 15.5, and only one time for that. It usually gets 13.5-14.5. I do not drive like speedracer either.
On the other hand, my brother just bought an 01 GMC Sierra C3, that's the $40K GM all-wheel-drive hotrod pickup with a 325 hp 6.0L motor, and a Cadillac interior. (I know it's blasphemous to say around here, but it's a VERY nice truck.) His sticker said 11-14 MPG, he has seen 14.4 MPG from day one, sometimes better. He drives about like me, so its not a driving style issue (in fact, he's a bit more into the throttle than me most of the time.)
Also, my Dad historically gets outrageously good mileage in his cars, (22 out of his 99 Chevy w/ 5.3L). I guess he just knows how to drive efficently, a secret WebbDogg seems to have discovered as well.
On the other hand, my brother just bought an 01 GMC Sierra C3, that's the $40K GM all-wheel-drive hotrod pickup with a 325 hp 6.0L motor, and a Cadillac interior. (I know it's blasphemous to say around here, but it's a VERY nice truck.) His sticker said 11-14 MPG, he has seen 14.4 MPG from day one, sometimes better. He drives about like me, so its not a driving style issue (in fact, he's a bit more into the throttle than me most of the time.)
Also, my Dad historically gets outrageously good mileage in his cars, (22 out of his 99 Chevy w/ 5.3L). I guess he just knows how to drive efficently, a secret WebbDogg seems to have discovered as well.
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From: San Diego, CA