i'm gearing up to buy a wakeboarding boat at the show in a couple weeks... this will be the first thing I've towed with the SCrew (I haven't towed anything since my grandfather's old bass boat with his old chevy years ago).

other than a hitch ball, I should be all set with the ford tow package, right?

the boat is 3200 pounds, not sure what a tandem trailer will add to that. I will have the boat in dry storage most of the year, so i actually won't have to tow much as they'll launch it for me 90% of the time. one trip annually up to lake oroville, san jose or sacramento now and then for maintenance, and that's about it.

anyone towing a similar setup? anything I should be aware of/watch for?

thanks,
Wes

 

The trailer will add about a thousand pounds. Add in the fuel and other incidentals and you'll still be under the max towing limit. Your truck should handle that load without a problem.

My only suggestion is to put your truck in 4x4 mode when backing down the ramp. Locking the front and rear axles together will make braking a lot easier and more controllable. When backing down a ramp, the center of balance of your truck will shift towards the rear, lessening the weight over the front wheels. In 4x2 mode, this will make your front wheels lock up first before the rear wheels and might cause you to slide down the ramp without any steering control. In 4x4 mode, at least one of the front wheels and both rear wheels will be practically connected together. You won't be able to lock up both front wheels without locking up the rear wheels too. With all the weight on the rear wheels, it will take a lot to lock them up.

 

pesos, depending on the year and/or make of your trailer, you may have the newer style 5 pin wire harness on your boat trailer. I bought a new boat and trailer 9 months ago, and it had the 5 pin connector on it.

If yours does (assuming the trailer has surge brakes) you may have to do some re-wiring on your truck. Some trailer mfgr's are adding an electric lockout on the trailers with the surge brake system and disc brakes. The 5th pin in the harness will be connected to your back-up light circuit. When you put the truck in reverse, there is a small solenoid that opens and the brake fluid is sent back into the master cylinder instead of the wheel cylinders.

I tried to back the trailer up a few feet before I rewired the truck, and unlike the older drum brakes, the disc brakes will not let the wheels turn.

I Installed the small 6 pin trailer plug on my truck(s) and trailer. I made adaptors (the Ford flat 4 pin is used to supply the newly installed six pin) for both truck and trailer so that all of the original wiring and plugs were still available for use, and nothing was cut or destroyed. I also left the Ford big six pin connector on the truck. I wanted to keep all of options available in case someone else towed my trailer, or I wound up towing some other trailer with a flat 4 pin plug or large 6 pin plug.

I didn't want to tap into the actual back-up light wires on the trucks main wiring harness, so I installed the backup light relay that is necessary to make the back-up light wire functional in the large trailer plug and used that as my source to release the brakes on the trailer when backing.

I also added an additional set of LED brake/tail lights to the back of the trailer. (I figured I might as well use the 6th pin to power something) I wired these so that they are brake-tail lights only, and do not flash with the turn signal. There is a wire under the back of your truck that is intended to be used for a 3rd brake light on a topper, so I used it to power the additional brake lights.

If you are headed up to Lake Oroville, give me a holler....I try to spend at least one day of the weekend out there during the summer. I'ts great living nine miles from the launch ramp!


(added in edit) BTW, Nice looking rig you got there! How does the exhaust sound?

 

I would like to add something to Dennis's post,

I also think that putting the truck in 4x4 Low is great for keeping things under control when launching a heavier boat on a steep/slippery ramp. Just remember to take it out of 4x4 as soon as you reach the top of the ramp. When turning on pavement with 4x4 engaged it tends to cause the transfer case to bind.

With the tow group we have the round 7 pin connector and the flat 4 pin connector. I have a tandem axle trailer with disc brakes that require me to lock them out before going backward. I installed both the 7 pin connector and the 4 pin connector to the trailer so that I would have the lockout feature of the 7 pin connector and in a pinch, the trailer could be towed with any 4 pin vehicle.

 

Great advice on the previous posts. One additional consideration is the drop on your hitch to match your boat height. You will want to get the right hitch to make the trailer ride level or slightly nose low, especially with a tandem axle trailer. I have a barefoot boat (See my home page from the link in my signature.) that is very similiar in weight, length, and trailer configuration as what you are getting. The difference is mine is an outboard (for barefooting) so I can tilt the engine up where you will have the tail dragger inboard. Nothing wrong with that, but you will have a tendency to drag the prop guard going across dips if you don't have the proper drop on your hitch. That is why I would have the nose slightly lower. I use a 3 1/2 inch drop on mine.

Happy boating! The S'Crew will pull it like a champ.

 

I have pulled a variety of different boats and have not really seen any need to use 4x4 on a consistent basis to launch a boat.

It all depends on the launch ramp. Specifically, the condition of the ramp, the degree of incline and the amount of sun the ramp receives are the major factors (I won't mention weather since you probably won't be launching a wake board boat in below freezing temperatures - it is interesting to do though).

Any time you are backing down the ramp, and this depends on the degree of incline, shift into drive, the weight of the boat and truck will pull the truck backward, the brakes will work better without the engine pushing everything backwards. If the ramp is not steep enough, use neutral.

Certainly on shallow inclines, pulling the boat out of the water is usually not a problem, unless of course the ramp receives little sunlight. Sunlight drys the ramp and eliminates algae, mold, mildew growth that greatly reduces traction.

Learn to back the trailer using your mirrors. Some trailers are not visible without the boat with the tailgate up. It is not that hard if you make a point to learn with the mirrors.

One final tip, when backing the trailer, instead of placing your hand on the top of the steering wheel, use the bottom. That way, when you need the trailer to go to your left, you move your hand to the left (which is natural) and to the right to go to the right. It solves much of the "Can't remember which way to turn the wheel syndrome" which can make you look silly on the ramp.....

John

PS, Dan8844 is right about the hitch heighth. You want your trailer to travel level, it will handle and track much better (more safely) on the road. For your 4x4 you will probably need a 2-4" drop hitch.

 

Pesos - Just purchased a 2001 Centurion Air Warrior this past summer (see gallery). Have not had any problems towing, launching, anything (2-wheel drive truck). As far as the new braking system for the trailer, you can buy an adaptor for the round plug on your truck that will fit the the 5-flat plug on the trailer - no rewiring needed. Essentially the fifth wire on the 5-flat plug is to void the trailer brakes when you shift into reverse and try and back the trailer up a hill.

What kinda boat you getting?? Just went to the Boat Show here in the ATL yesterday - some nice ones out there!!!

 

if all goes well, a super air team edition :-)

http://correctcraft.com/teamEdition_index.cfm

 

Spendin' the big bucks!!!

Looks great - good luck with it!!!

 

Looks like your replies just about covered it…Except a spare tire, jack/jacking board and bearing buddies.

 

Oh yeah! Bearing Buddies. They're essential for long hub/bearing life. Keep them pumped up with grease and you could go years before bearing failure.

Pesos, I sure hope you get some training beforehand. If I'm not mistaken, Correct Craft builds inboards. Straight shafts (V-drives?). Single inboards are "fun" to dock. At least it's fun to watch a clueless newbie try to dock one.

 

thanks dennis :-) luckily i've had some experience docking school's ski nautique... fun fun fun ;-)

Wes

 

Yeah, I would be one of those clueless newbies!!! Mine is a V-drive and man that thing was hard to dock the first couple of times. No throttle - no steer!!! Pretty much have the hang of it now. Now if we could just get some rain to fill the lake (Lanier) back up for next summer!!!!

 

Lake Lanier! Do you know a lady named Peggie Peal? She's got a Trojan on that lake. Her business deals with MSDs (Marine Sanitation Devices). She's the "Goddess of Poop."

 

Oh yeah! Newbies don't realize you gotta goose that throttle when docking! Remember, right hand props backs to port. Left hand props backs to starboard!

Watching some of the old timers docking their single screws is like poetry in motion. I can do a credible job and look like a pro, but when the wind kicks up... Those guys know how to use the wind! Me? I'm used to the brute force of twin screws and outdrives.