Dealer R2 drivers side master switches ops ck gd and under warranty so no cost involved. Sounded like they have a few of those bad by the way they commented about it. The new switches have a more positive feel to them as well.

 

Not to bring this thread back from the dead but this has happened to me twice on my 05 F150 FX4 Crew.

1st time was at 44,000 miles. I can't remember but at least 2 of the buttons failed to roll up the windows. Dealer replaced the switch and charged me $150 for everything (parts/labor).

Now with 66,000 miles on the truck the passenger side front window is doing it again.

Does anyone know if the design was changed with newer parts? I'd hate to have to spend money on this every 20,000 miles.

 

my father have a xlt 07 and i have a 05 xlt, and but of us have this probleme and dont know for the newest model but 07 have the same problem!

 

Might as well let you know mine is doing it too.

 

I replaced the switch on my '06 after it did the same thing. The driver's side window switch was the only one effected. I thought maybe the rain falling on the switch had rusted out the contacts. However, when I bought the replacement it didn't look like there was any way for rain water to get into the contact portion of the switch.

It started out by being just a little difficult to get it to roll the window up. You could apply a little English on your finger and still get it to work. After a while it'd never work the same way twice.

I did it about 2 months ago and it's still working fine.

 

I had to replace all of my passenger door window switches. I had them replaced around 2 weeks ago.

 

Sounds like Ford needs to stop being cheap and have a RECALL for once.....The dealer I bought my truck from wants $81.50 for a passenger side switch.....I repalced the passenger side and the driver side already....and guess what....they're screw'n up already.....kinda frustrating!!

 

You may look into replacing the motor. It seems to be a popular problem on 05's....assuming the window has been up and down much more as the vehicle gets older. Once the window reaches its peak or its lowest point it puts a greater load on the motor when its no longer moving. So over time it will burn up the switch.

 

I had the same issue on a 1995 Explorer, my 2000 F150 and now with my 2006 SCREW. I see Ford finally changed the switch in the 2009 and newer trucks. The only good point was that changing the 2006 switch takes about 1 minute and no tools. My Explorer and the 2000 F150 I had to remove the door panel.

It really drives me crazy that Ford will not change or fix their poor designs (spark plug, speedometer, odometer, brakes, etc.). Maybe just maybe they would not have so much problem with what they say is, "The perception of their product vs. Toyota or Honda". They continue to be short sited...don't fix the problem; just try to make money from the spare parts. They don't understand that people like me get fed up and go buy a Toyota or a Chevy over little things that never get fixed.

 

Its appearent that Ford has an issue with the switches going out. I have an 05 fX4 and my drivers window switch, passenger "front and back" switches have gone out. All have been covered under my extended warranrty through the dealership.

Talking with the dealership, they said that there have been a ton of people with this same exact problem and that it really should be a recall, but it isnt...

Scott

 

So, being the handy fellow I am, I decided to see what it would take to dismantle the switch and actually repair it since the switch is not hermetically sealed and is held together by two separate sets of plastic clips.

The problem with the design of the switch is there are no capacitors built into the switches and the motor current is high, causing an arc across the contacts which eventually melts, you guessed it, the driver's side window up switch (rolling the window up requires a lot more current than rolling it down).

This consistently happens to the driver's side switch because not many of us use the passenger side rear window switch as much as the driver's side window switch.

I am going to attempt a repair on the switch using solder, in the hopes that $0.03 worth of solder and 15 minutes of labor will save me $40.

 

After dismantling the switch, there are 4 nearly identical switch assemblies. I say nearly identical because the actuator arm on the driver's side front window (with the dual detent for down or auto down) is black and the other actuators are white.

On the left side bottom are the driver's side window actuator pads. The first and second pads from the left are the up pads for the driver's side front seat window. The third and fourth pads are the driver's side back seat window. Note that even the ground pad on the front seat window is showing signs of burn-through, while the motor-up pad is nearly burned away. The "click" you hear when activating the switch is the actuator arm striking the pad. When the pad is burned off, as seen here, the arm is about 1/100th of an inch from the pad and the only movement of the window is caused by electricity arcing across this gap, burning the pad down further until the 13.8Vdc can no longer strike an arc.

I will post another picture once this has been repaired.

 

It doesn't take a soldering iron or solder to fix this issue, as it turns out.

On the actuator arm itself are three spring-loaded pins. I noticed the pin which actuates the window-up side had mushroomed. I removed this pin and the center pin and swapped places and it works like a champ.

I plan on dismantling the whole thing again tomorrow to take detailed photographs from start to finish in the hopes that someone else will be able to benefit from this labor-only solution to the window-not-rolling-up issue.

 

Did you ever get those photos taken? I'm interested in this.