lowering my 01 S'crew
lowering my 01 S'crew
Does anyone know if the Ford Racing Perf. Parts lowering kit #M3000L will fit my 01 screw. It is for the Lightning/HD but I think that they have the same suspension as my 01 2wd.
yea it should fit your truck just fine, get aligned after you put the new coils in. And to get it aligned properly you may need a camber kit.
If you lower any more then 2" i get new shocks. But i would recomend getting new shocks anyways b.c the stock ones suck big time.
Ive got stock SVT coils in the classifieds which i am selling for 75, and you can pick up any set of shackles, i would recomend 2 or 3" and you will get the same amount lower for probably around 50 bucks less.
And here is the link to the parts if anyone cares : http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=5169
-Patrick
If you lower any more then 2" i get new shocks. But i would recomend getting new shocks anyways b.c the stock ones suck big time.
Ive got stock SVT coils in the classifieds which i am selling for 75, and you can pick up any set of shackles, i would recomend 2 or 3" and you will get the same amount lower for probably around 50 bucks less.
And here is the link to the parts if anyone cares : http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=5169
-Patrick
I have the same question he does. A friend of mine and I were riding around and I seen a good looking supercrew lowered on 20s and he said it was a 4-2 drop. Would you recommend going that low, or something like a 3-1 with 20s????
The L coils alone, will lower 1" at the most, with the control arms, you may get closer to 1 1/2" once it settles, but this is just what ive learned here, i havent done it in person myself.
2/4 isnt really that low. ive got a 2/3 right now, or maybe its 3/4 but anyways, ive got a little rake to the front, and i dont have any problems dragging, or anything like that, infact i took it off pavement yesterday for a little photo shoot...



-Patrick
2/4 isnt really that low. ive got a 2/3 right now, or maybe its 3/4 but anyways, ive got a little rake to the front, and i dont have any problems dragging, or anything like that, infact i took it off pavement yesterday for a little photo shoot...



-Patrick
Patman that is one sweet looking Screw. I am going to Lower My f-150 this weekend. i just need to decide on what shocks to get. I think I am going to get the Hotchkis/ Bilstein's the "GO" with the lowering kit I have. What shocks are you running Patman?
Scotty
Scotty
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
howd it go? you got any pics yet?
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=10925
Scotty
looks pretty good. Did everything come out as expected. And do you have a before and after measurements, to know how much it actually lowered it?
Now you can participate in this older thread....
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...01#post2020201
See if youve gained any mpg in the next few weeks.
Oh also if you droped more then 2" up front, let me know if you have any rubbing issues on the frame, or on the sway bar itself. (I do
)
-Patrick
Now you can participate in this older thread....
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...01#post2020201
See if youve gained any mpg in the next few weeks.
Oh also if you droped more then 2" up front, let me know if you have any rubbing issues on the frame, or on the sway bar itself. (I do
)-Patrick
DRop is supposed to be 2-3. I ordered The Hotchkis TVS, which is a handling kit as well as lowering kit. New front springs & sway bar, and the new rear leafs, and a swaybar on the rear(the rear dids not have one stock). I ordered the kit through LFP (Lightning Force Perfomance). When I ordered they told me that i would see 2 1/2 front and about 4 in rear. 4 inches is what the rear dropped for sure. The front was 2- 2.5. Now to answer your question. Yes I have experinced some slight rubbing in extreme turning, and spring loading. For the most part it is not bad at all.
If you saw my thread then you know the lower ball joints were shot and one tierod end. I installed the lowering kit myself, but after one FULL day of working to lower I had local shop put in the ball joints and tie rod ends.
With everything that has changed on the suspension, I honestly cannot say how well the TVS by it self performs. But I am extremly happy with the handling with all the components being changed. Like Night and DAY. And the Look, which is what I was really after, is incredible. Couple more months I will put on some new wheels. The tires I Have now are less than 6 months old. I want to get some more miles on them before buying new tires and wheels, and money needs to be there also.
Sorry for the BOOK LOL
SCotty
If you saw my thread then you know the lower ball joints were shot and one tierod end. I installed the lowering kit myself, but after one FULL day of working to lower I had local shop put in the ball joints and tie rod ends.
With everything that has changed on the suspension, I honestly cannot say how well the TVS by it self performs. But I am extremly happy with the handling with all the components being changed. Like Night and DAY. And the Look, which is what I was really after, is incredible. Couple more months I will put on some new wheels. The tires I Have now are less than 6 months old. I want to get some more miles on them before buying new tires and wheels, and money needs to be there also.
Sorry for the BOOK LOL
SCotty
Last edited by Scotty08; Apr 23, 2006 at 05:32 PM.
yea it really is night and day difference over stock on everything. I dont have the high end drop like you do that replaces everything, nor do i have a rear sway
but yea
i have rubbing in the same times you decribed, its not terrible, ill probably pick up lightning bump stop kit just to be safe
I too have had my tires for less then a year, and they are 80.ooo mile warranty so ive got quite a ways to go
Sounds good tho,
later
-Patrick
but yea
i have rubbing in the same times you decribed, its not terrible, ill probably pick up lightning bump stop kit just to be safe
I too have had my tires for less then a year, and they are 80.ooo mile warranty so ive got quite a ways to go
Sounds good tho,
later
-Patrick
OK, another hijack...
How hard is it to get the rivets popped out on the rear hangers? I've almost got my wife talked into the Belltech 3/4 kit for my birthday in June, but don't wanna pay someone to install it. The rivet removal is the only thing I can see as being hard to do. I'm very mechanically inclined, so the rest doesn't bother me... So, torch, grinder, air hammerchisel thingy (sorry for that one - only one cup of coffee and the real name of the tool escapes me at the moment...)
How hard is it to get the rivets popped out on the rear hangers? I've almost got my wife talked into the Belltech 3/4 kit for my birthday in June, but don't wanna pay someone to install it. The rivet removal is the only thing I can see as being hard to do. I'm very mechanically inclined, so the rest doesn't bother me... So, torch, grinder, air hammerchisel thingy (sorry for that one - only one cup of coffee and the real name of the tool escapes me at the moment...)
On mine, they werent too bad once you figure out a trick that works.
We used a die grinder, to grind off the head of it, then used wd40 and a drill, and drilled a nice dimple in it (i think we used like 3/8" bit) and then air chiseled around the outside edges to push all the tapers in that the grinder may have missed, then punched it through with the air chisel.
I didnt have access to a torch, nor was i too crazy about heating up my frame that much....
-Patrick
We used a die grinder, to grind off the head of it, then used wd40 and a drill, and drilled a nice dimple in it (i think we used like 3/8" bit) and then air chiseled around the outside edges to push all the tapers in that the grinder may have missed, then punched it through with the air chisel.
I didnt have access to a torch, nor was i too crazy about heating up my frame that much....
-Patrick




I might just lower my rear 2"s