I hate threads like this...but :(
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Easton, Pa.
Well if you didn't talk so smart about it and be more accepting, I would not have come to that conclusion. Maybe it's your normal way of relating.
I pointed out in my first reply that you have too many requirements and should listen a little instead of trying to argue all the points, then start making plans to best accomplish the most goals.
I'm not here to hold hands and give kisses, you talk firm, I talk firm, so get used to it.
Put the lift and tires on and be happy with the results as long as you already know how it's going to be so good.
I pointed out in my first reply that you have too many requirements and should listen a little instead of trying to argue all the points, then start making plans to best accomplish the most goals.
I'm not here to hold hands and give kisses, you talk firm, I talk firm, so get used to it.
Put the lift and tires on and be happy with the results as long as you already know how it's going to be so good.
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From: Somewhere between San Diego and Phoenix
Originally Posted by dmp
With an over-all increase of just a couple inches or less, the tall tires won't make THAT much difference. As-is, with 33" tires we get 14mpg - just about under all conditions.
The truck will get better mileage with 35" tires and stock, 3.55:1 gears than it would with 35" tires and 4.11's.
The truck will get better mileage with 35" tires and stock, 3.55:1 gears than it would with 35" tires and 4.11's.
Trust me on this. I used to work at a 4x4 shop. You will NOT get better mileage by going to a 35" tire, and you WILL lose power. If you are going to keep coming back and arguing with those of us who have experience with the subject, then why are you even here asking for advice? You obviously know more than the rest of us, so go make your mods.
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From: Texas in the heart
Mods
Well Jeeps&Fords, we just have to let them make the same mistakes we did. Or should say I did. After big tires and wheels, headers, Holley, trans build, new cam, on my Bronco, I just did not have the performance I wanted. Friend talked me into a gear change, what a difference! I even did it to an old 82 F150 with a 6 cyl. Thing would really lug up the hills. Gear swap and the power was there along with the fuel milage. And yes I had already tried the exhaust and Carb change. The gear change seemed to bring all the mods together and made for a great running truck. But, we learn the hard way. Or should I say expensive way!!!
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From: Armada, MI
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Well if you didn't talk so smart about it and be more accepting, I would not have come to that conclusion. Maybe it's your normal way of relating.
I pointed out in my first reply that you have too many requirements and should listen a little instead of trying to argue all the points, then start making plans to best accomplish the most goals.
I'm not here to hold hands and give kisses, you talk firm, I talk firm, so get used to it.
Put the lift and tires on and be happy with the results as long as you already know how it's going to be so good.
I pointed out in my first reply that you have too many requirements and should listen a little instead of trying to argue all the points, then start making plans to best accomplish the most goals.
I'm not here to hold hands and give kisses, you talk firm, I talk firm, so get used to it.
Put the lift and tires on and be happy with the results as long as you already know how it's going to be so good.
So it seems me 'asking for data' to support what some of you guys are saying makes some of you think I'm 'smarting off'?
Weird.
Thanks for the info, Expy - your replies are helpful.
Things just need to make sense. The calculator on that page shows my trucks current 'effective gearing' is 3.78:1 with 33" tires. That 'should' result in higher engine RPMs at, say, 60mph, compared to the factory 3.55:1 gears, right? So if I put in 4.11s in, and increase the tire size to 35", that means even higher rpms at a given speed, or to maintain a given speed, no? Higher RPMs = worse fuel economy...knowing the shorter gearing will help vehicle acceleration. I've never denied that gearing will make a difference in Acceleration; it's just the extent of the difference I'm wondering.
What am I missing here? Is it the 'sweet spot' point Expy brought up?
Now, just a point of order Jeeps&Fords, taller tires (effective gearing) won't make an engine 'lose power' - just accelerate as if it had less...it'll 'feel' different.
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From: Long Island, NY
With the proper gearing your truck wont have to work as hard to get up to speed. I had sold my mustang to buy my f-150 but before I did that I had stock 3.27 gears and went to motive 3.90s and a programer and my gas mileage went up 2 miles per gallon. (auto) every time you go up a tire size you need to go down a gear size just to keep your performance around the same as stock.
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From: Texas in the heart
gearing
Check your numbers on your effective gearing. if you have 3.55 rear gears, you can't have 3.78 with taller tires (33) Does not compute!!! If you put in 4.11 gears and install 35" tires, your rpms may stay about the same. It's late and I have to get up early. Tomorrow I will try to show you with the numbers.
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From: Armada, MI
Originally Posted by expy03
Check your numbers on your effective gearing. if you have 3.55 rear gears, you can't have 3.78 with taller tires (33) Does not compute!!! If you put in 4.11 gears and install 35" tires, your rpms may stay about the same. It's late and I have to get up early. Tomorrow I will try to show you with the numbers.
New Tire Diameter: 33"
Old Tire Diameter: 31" (approximate Stock size)
Current Gear Ratio: 3.55 (Factory)
New Gear Ratio: 3.779
What am I missing?
Thanks much!
-d
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 231
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From: Armada, MI
Originally Posted by motopsyko32
what type of bike are you selling?
my ad, on another forum:
It's time to come to terms with reality - the reality is, I put 4500 miles on my bike from December 03 to September 04. Since November 04 until today, I've put about 800 miles on the bike. I'm starting to not be able to justify having a bike sitting around not being used. I've got a medical condition affecting my knees, so riding has become a chore. As summer winds down I find I'll probably ride even less the rest of the year.
So - after my ramblings:
2004 636 ~5200 miles
Low-sided once - The damage was cosmetic; forks replaced because 'you don't want to take chances with your forks' the dealer who fixed the bike said.
Mechanically the bike is in excellent condition. Bike professionally put together by Puyallup Powersports.
Clear Title in-hand.
No mods save rear-fender eliminator, front short-stalk turn signals, and double-bubble.
Bike comes with two complete side fairings, one scratched up nicely, the other in pretty good shape - could be used as 'race fairings' with a little work.
Bike includes rear passenger seat, and I will include a LP rear stand.
Mileage on ODO doesn't match actual mileage, as the instrument cluster was replaced.
Bike dynos at 107whp on Eddie Current Dyno. (that's about 110+hp on a Dyno-Jet)
Recent photo: http://njsr.org/pics/albums/userpics...efrontyard.jpg
More pics available on request.
Asking $6250 - will accept any reasonable offer.
I get very sad to think the bike will be gone; still unsure if I'll get another eventually. I get pretty attached to cars and such, so it's a big deal to sell this bike.
Contact darin.pemberton at gmail.com
So - after my ramblings:
2004 636 ~5200 miles
Low-sided once - The damage was cosmetic; forks replaced because 'you don't want to take chances with your forks' the dealer who fixed the bike said.
Mechanically the bike is in excellent condition. Bike professionally put together by Puyallup Powersports.
Clear Title in-hand.
No mods save rear-fender eliminator, front short-stalk turn signals, and double-bubble.
Bike comes with two complete side fairings, one scratched up nicely, the other in pretty good shape - could be used as 'race fairings' with a little work.
Bike includes rear passenger seat, and I will include a LP rear stand.
Mileage on ODO doesn't match actual mileage, as the instrument cluster was replaced.
Bike dynos at 107whp on Eddie Current Dyno. (that's about 110+hp on a Dyno-Jet)
Recent photo: http://njsr.org/pics/albums/userpics...efrontyard.jpg
More pics available on request.
Asking $6250 - will accept any reasonable offer.
I get very sad to think the bike will be gone; still unsure if I'll get another eventually. I get pretty attached to cars and such, so it's a big deal to sell this bike.
Contact darin.pemberton at gmail.com
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Armada, MI
Originally Posted by motopsyko32
i cant PM wtf?
PM's are turned off, on this forum...drop an email - I'll check it at lunch (work network ***** prevent checking gmail during 'duty' hours).
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 61
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From: SC
In my .0001 cents worth. I would get the Supercharger. My thinking is like this:
-Lift will not be used very often (unless you offroad everyday)
-Tires pretty much go with the lift (So not pratically used everyday)
-More Power is used everyday you drive the vehicle. No matter what you do with it.
If it was lift or power I would choose power everytime (of course unless I offroaded everyday)
-Lift will not be used very often (unless you offroad everyday)
-Tires pretty much go with the lift (So not pratically used everyday)
-More Power is used everyday you drive the vehicle. No matter what you do with it.
If it was lift or power I would choose power everytime (of course unless I offroaded everyday)
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From: Somewhere between San Diego and Phoenix
First, quit taking things so literally. "Lose power" does not mean your engine will be less powerful, it means that you will put power to the ground less effectively. With as little as you know about the subject, you are going to sit there and bust my b*lls? Sorry, my mistake for assuming that you actually knew what we were talking about.
Higher RPM does not mean worse economy. If you drop your RPMs, you will be out of the powerband for the engine, and it actually has to work harder to push the truck. As an example, say that it takes 50 HP to push our trucks along at 65mph. With stock gearing and tires that is like 1800rpm (don't blast me for not being exact - this is an example). Just say that with the power AVAILABLE at 1800rpm, it takes 20% throttle opening to generate the 50hp. Now you put on your big tires, and the RPMs at 65 drop to 1400rpm. The engine generates less HP and torque at that RPM. Now, to generate that 50HP you have to maintain a 60 or 70% throttle opening. The fuel required to generate the 50HP is actually greater at 1400rpm than it is at 1800rpm.
Higher RPM does not mean worse economy. If you drop your RPMs, you will be out of the powerband for the engine, and it actually has to work harder to push the truck. As an example, say that it takes 50 HP to push our trucks along at 65mph. With stock gearing and tires that is like 1800rpm (don't blast me for not being exact - this is an example). Just say that with the power AVAILABLE at 1800rpm, it takes 20% throttle opening to generate the 50hp. Now you put on your big tires, and the RPMs at 65 drop to 1400rpm. The engine generates less HP and torque at that RPM. Now, to generate that 50HP you have to maintain a 60 or 70% throttle opening. The fuel required to generate the 50HP is actually greater at 1400rpm than it is at 1800rpm.