Greetings!
Great to find yet another BB group to bounce vehicle problems off of!!!! Just picked up a 2001 SC about 5K miles ago with about 65K on the clock. So far so good! Oil pressure sender was bad immediately on the trip home from picking truck up, but those are easy and cheap! A couple of questions buried in my ramblings...

I have a Harvest Gold Metallic (code B2) with a code MH for interior trim. I'm trying to figure out what "tan" this is..... in order to get some new floor mats off of ebay.... anyone have the interior codes handy? (I found exterior codes via a paint shop but didn't wanna bug the dealership for an interior code...in case someone has the docs or CD's.)

Other things I've noticiced....radio fades in and out....seems to be a POS for the most part...but I can put up with it for now. Has the remote 6cd changer in the rear seat storage well. What aftermarket units fit and plug into this setup if any???? Too bad the quality of a "premium sound system" has been reduced to this..... they used to be the good stuff!

Have a low speed miss, intermittent. Saw the posts on coils/plugs. My dad has same truck, has had one coil replaced. Procedure looks like MPIA!!! To do coil OR plugs! Hate to take it in to have them pinpoint bad coil for $75 or more!!! Any hints? Tech tips on this?

I get about 20-22MPG on hwy (work commute) or about 420 miles before the low fuel lamp comes on. (4.6 with 3.55 towing pckg gears) Someone mentioned that this lamp indicates 5 gallons left??? I found nothing in the owners manual that mentions capacity or distance...... where was this mentioned as I sure would like to be 100% certain of what I have left....within reason.....!

Last (I promise!) I see some banter about key fobs. Bought some new ones (good batteries) and can't get them to work with the truck. (did the program thing in the owners manual) I do have a dealer installed aftermarket alarm (Audiovox Pro9649 or so..) which is hooked into the door locks etc. However they claim that it should operate independently of the factory system.... I will have to check and see if the factory unit (white box) is still up near the e-brake, as that is where the aftermarket unit is...but I doubt that it would plug into a factory setup..... Just frustrating having to be stuck to the aftermarket when original parts are plentiful and cheap! Do these trucks originally come with an alarm???? OR is it just unlock/lock feature and alarm is optional?
I don't have the keypad entry feature, but was looking at the "add-on" versions that are available? (However, if my keyfobs don't work these keypads also may not work?) Would like to get the factory keyfobs working first.

Thanks a heap!
Steve

 

Welcome Aboard

 

I'm thinking theres only about 2-3 gallons left when the light comes on

 

Most of your questions have been answered before, just do a search on this site

 

Agree - do a search.. There is very little you can't find nowadays that hasn't been covered already!

Enjoy the ride!

Later,
Chris

 

Steve,

Try www.paintscratch.com to look up the paint codes.
I cannot find the interior color code you have listed, then again what is on the plate on mine I can't locate either
For 2001 there are 3 interior colors listed, 2 versions of graphite, and a Medium Parchment (Interior) which lists as FA812OI ( mine shows what would be interior as F2, but that is not it, it is Med Graphite ).
So it seems you have medium parchment for the interior color, by that list.

The radio fading in and out, never seen that one myself, but I have not looked much on the topic, as I don't have it.
As for a 3rd party using the stock harness, I didn't think so, but it is easy enough to add in the harness for the mfgr of the head unit / changer that you are going to get. You will be R&R the center console anyway, and getting under the carpet where the stock harness runs is easy ( I routed a dash light circuit to the console to light the cup area ). If you are going aftermarket, might want to try some place like Crutchfield, as they have the adapter pigtails to go from your new HU to the stock harness, rather then making your own. Also they provide you with the wiring diagrams for it, if they have them. Else there is an 800 # you can call and they will look it up in the EVTM for you.

For a 2001 5.4L they are Coil on Plugs, don't know if you dad has the same setup or not. If you are actually getting a misfire, it would set the CEL, and you would have a flashing CEL light on the dash. The code number would tell you which it is ( i.e. P0302 is cylinder #2 ). I have not seen a mis-fire not cause a CEL, but I have not seen it all by any means.
The misfire or stumble might be a cracked VAC line, causing a small amount of un-metered air to get into the system, but that is a guess. Can you clarify what the low speed interment miss is ? ( Engine RPM, load / no load etc ). A post of this into the engine forum is the best place to start.

Next time you get the low fuel light on, fill it up, and subtract it from 26 Gal ( I seem to recall that is the tank cap, check the owners manual to be sure ) and that tells you the amount left in the tank. Fill it until the pump shuts off on it's own, don't top it off, if you are going for the max of 26. have seen where each one is a bit different, I think mine is 4.5 gals when the light comes on.

When you programmed the key fobs per the manual, did you get the confirmation at the end ? They should be programmed then. The factory RAP / CSM still needs to be up there, as it serves more then the function of key less entry ( this is also what the door key pad hooks to ). When you entered programming mode did you get the confirm that programming mode has been entered ? I seem to recall this is a cycle of the locks ??

The truck has a anti-thief circuit, that is coupled with the PATS, unless a Gold level remote start was ordered there is not alarm.

My gallery I have listed the differences with the SCrew door keypad install, they are slightly different then the SCab and std cab install procedures found at SVTlightnings.com.
I used the wired version, not the wireless version.

That is about it for quick answers, if they start to get involved, best bet is to start a new thread in the correct section, and copy -> paste the info into the new thread.

Good luck

 

Check and see if you have the RDS system on your radio console. If so, hit RDS switch, then keep hitting it until "TRAFFIC" comes on, and see if it reads yes or no. If yes, then the stereo automatically reduces volume when you slow down.

 

The RDS "Traffic" sign is for stations that transmit traffic warnings. Not many stations in the US do but in the UK and Europe it is popular. If you have traffic on you will receive traffic warnings from the station you are listening to if they transmit them.
Speed sensitive volume is different. I will check my truck for directions on that. If I remember correctly you press and hold your volume ****.

 

To all who replied! Grazi!

SSCULLY: Thanks for the hints on the radio adaptation. We'll see if I get that far.... I did have to call my buddy at the dealership for the interior code. "MH" = "Medium Parchment" for most trucks it sounded like at least in '01.

As for my intermittant miss at low speeds, it occurs when you pull up to a stop lite, like exiting the freeway, and at a stop, you can feel that the idle is not smooth. It is not a 100% miss, like a dead hole, but rather irregular. It's just not the smooth idle that we have in our 92 Crown Vic (4.6L) that idles so smooth you wonder if the car is running! (160K on it!) I would sorta expect similar, not a stuttering idle. Throttle response is crisp, no bogging or anything else.... I do a lot of freeway cruising, so question the logic of carbon buildup (seabreeze treatment?) I see no CEL etc....so must not be too terrible yet!

Yes, I do seem to remember the 26 gal thing...not sure why I didn't figure on doing the math thing...duh!

As for the key fob programming, no, I never do get the "completion" sorta response, which is why I questioned the whole thing. I do believe that I got the "enter mode" response. Will need to try it again... Thanks for the clarification on the alarm thing and the Gold start. I'm sure I don't have that. Still need to look up and check the wiring for a module, but I was under the impression that the ECM handled the door locks on these things as well as everything else.

RAP? CSM? Remote Access ?........? Security Module PATS and door locks run thru this? I do have new keys to program too, once I get them cut.....so I hope it is still functional! (I'd guess that it would hafta be...cuz it still starts! )

SCHMOE & NORM

Yes, I do have the RDS feature, but I would agree with Norm about the traffic issue. I just don't recall seeing info on the "auto volume" thing in the manual when I read the stereo section....but then we all know about manuals! (My 92 EVTM manual has nothing about deactivating the rolling door locks- (locks auto lock once you hit drive and go!) yet the 93 version of the EVTM has it, I guess they figured that they missed something! Go figure!)

I can play with the volume **** tonite.....in traffic!

Enjoying the ride! Thanks again!
Steve

 

Steve,
If you have a 5.4L for a rough idle, you can try looking at VAC lines, but the most notable is the rubber elbow on the back of the T/B elbow going to the PCV. This can develop cracks, and allow in un-metered air, causing this. Else it could be the IAC ( little cylinder on the back of the T/B elbow ). If the IAC is not opening all the way, the miss you might be feeling is the truck not getting enough air, and almost stalling. Just 2 SWAGs at what it might be. You can take a look at those. The complete PCV parts are like 25.00 to replace. The IAC is a PITA to take off, but can be taken off and cleaned.

Remote Antitheift Module or Central Security Module. This has several functions, like the keypad and remote key fobs. PATS is actually in the HEC, not here. Go figure. Programming new keys adds them to the list stored in the HEC. I forget at the moment what else runs through the RAP / CSM, but there is more to it then the keypad and door locks. If it is ready for the keypad, there will be a 5 digit code on it, this is the permanent code, then you can also add in a personal code as well ( only 1 ). Remember to take the permanent code card out of the manual, and keep it somewhere else

Those are the few things that I can think of at the moment.

Let us know how things go.

Good luck