Have any of you had to replace your brakes on your truck? I have a 2001 Supercrew 4 x 2 with just over 41,000 kilometers on the truck. I am getting a slight shudder when the brakes are applied, but it goes away when the truck is warmed up. At what mileage if any have you had to replace your brakes or have them checked.

Also, at what mileage interval did you have to replace the stock tires. Mine are the General AW Grabbers. I'm wondering if I should be looking for new tires this summer. I want some that are better in snow and rain. Any suggestions.

Thanks


__________________

 

Tie rod ends, one acutally broke in the parking lot at work when I was pulling into my parking space, 4 new rotors, and the second set of pads on all 4 at 61,000 miles.
2nd set of tires at 55,00 miles.
2001 SCrew 4x2 XLT, 5.4, deep wedge with gold trim, chip,filter, dual exhaust, undercover lid, bucket seat mod with TV in rear of console for kids on road trips. Runs 15.90's . Run hard and put away wet daily.

 

sydscrew,

Sounds like you need to have your rotors turned. The OEM rotors suck!!!!!!!!!! I have a 97 Lariat and had the rotors turned twice, then replaced. At less than 100,000 miles. When you get, or have the work done, it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to some higher quality pads either. Good Luck.

 

 

Brake job at 28K miles for me.

 

pads and rotors at 45 or so.......tires at 48.......

 

I did the tires at 35k, and I am getting ready to replace the rotors and pads either this weekend or next. I bought carbon metallic pads from National Fleet parts.com and bought rotors from frozenrotors.com. I bought drilled rotors, and they cryogenically freeze them for strength. I just turned 40k miles and have started to feel a slight shutter when breaking hard. I was amazed by how much pad was gone in such a short time frame. I'm use to driving sticks, so this is something new to me.


Rick

 

I had to have the front brakes replaced @ 43,000 miles. I now have 55,000 miles and have not had to have the rears done, yet. I was getting "surging", prior to having to have the front ones done. I get a "LOT" of brake dust on front wheels, but no surging! Good luck

 

What a load of marketing crap....and I have beachfront property for sale in Oklahoma.

This just sounds as fishy as it does ridiculous. Plain carbon steels can have their structural and mechanical properties changed based on how the final product is heated/cooled (heat treatment). An austenite crystalline structure (steel at temps greater than ~750°C usually during forging) can be converted to a martensite crystilline structure by a rapid cooling via water quench. Once the temperature reaches ~ 200°C the crystalline transformation is over. The martensite will give the steel a higher "hardness" thus increasing it's wear life and reducing it's ductility which decreases warping but increases brittleness. Air cooling steel rather than using a quick water quench yields a pearlitic crystalline structure which is not has "hard" as the martensite, but at the same time is a bit more ductle and that prevents the steel from being so brittle (cracking).

Now the notion of "freezing" the steel makes no sense to me because after 200°C the games over because the steel has already formed the appropriate crystalline structure based on how it was cooled.

Sounds like marketing smoke and mirrors to me.

TonyPTX

 

Do a little research Tony, it's actually a very highly reguarded and used technique of most high performance race teams and builders. Just not well known, here's a few sites that have info about is.

http://www.mondellotwister.com/cryogenics.html
http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/motorspo.htm
http://www.onecryo.com/motorsp.htm
http://www.sub-zero-cryogenics.com/cryoarticle.html



Rick

 

You need to be a more careful before you call someone out like that..

I have known of this technology for years and it works. Currently the biggest public use is for razors (like mach-3, gillete etc..) and people buy a pack of razors and each razor will last for months, not days or weeks.

If I remember correctly, the flash freezing re-aligns the molecules in the steel an a row, thereby making them MUCH stronger. Kind of like molecular fibers, instead of a jumble of molecules.. Does that make sense?

What do you think is accomplished when a blacksmith dunks red-hot metal into a bucket of water? Same general idea, it treats the metal...

 

If it came of that way, I appologize. I didn't intend on calling anyone out. I only spoke of my personal experiences and classes taken in college 5 years ago working on my Mech. Engineering degree. We had several materials classes where we had labs that dealt with this particular heat treament of plain carbon steels. I was always under the notion (based on comments from professors and graphs from various properties of materials handbooks) that after steel cooled below 200°C the hardness could no longer be changed. Guess times and technology have changed since then. I'm still a skeptic even after reading all of those links provided above.


I knew this already as stated in my original post. The "dunk" is referred to as "water quenching" in the "industry."

Tony

 

No problem... I understand where you're coming from...

I don't know if you have, but if you read about that cryo treatment, the thing that stands out over normal "water quenching" or quick flash freezing is that cryo is a very slow process. i.e., the metal must be cryo'd for something on the order of 20+ hours and not interrupted (heated in any way)....

I too thought this was a load of BS, but then I saw it in action, no special this or that and the proof was undeniable...

Later and take care!
Chris

 

Technically, steel is already frozen. It's a solid.

 

Frozen Rotors heres the scoop

I used to play in a band with a singer who designed electronic circuits for a electronics company. We used to argue over tube amps vs transistor amps. He said they could reproduce the wave and signal exactly with a transistor. We if its true or not, tubes are bigger in use today then ever, even with this digital age. Seems they just sound better.

Now to Frozen Rotors.

I used to race C5 Corvettes with SCCA and know about rotor cracking etc. I have never used frozen rotors but my brother who races BMW's has. And a racer knows his car and exactly when rotors wear, etc. The frozen rotors DO last longer for some reason. Like the tube amps, maybe it does not make sense from a engineering perspective, but in the real world it works.

I ran hard pads on my C5 and went through 4 sets of rotors before changing the pads. The rotors will get small 1" cracks in them and then watch out.

As far as on a street truck I think you will not see much performance or longer life. The rotors on my car would glow hot red under braking. Pretty cool looking.

I think the frozen aspect plays in when your rotors get red hot then cool down for many cycles. The kind of heat you will not see on the street (unless your going down a mountain). The frozen rotors handle this cycle better.

Anyway hope this sheds some light on things.