Have any of you installed a dome light under your tonneau and wired it into the SCrew's electrical system? If so, what route did you go with the wires (both the physical routing and the tie-in to the electrical system)? What dome lights have proven to give off the best all-around light and where did you get them? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Mike

 

When it stops raining (like that will ever happen ) I am going to install some TruckLite lamps I got from NAPA. They are the model 19 white/clear license plate lamps (they also have them in red, amber and some LED units as well). The NAPA part number is 1901W and the base for it is part number 9389.

The wires will have a quick disconnect so that I can still take the cover off if need be. They will probably be run through one of the access holes in the front of the bed (on the bulkhead) and then under the truck to the battery or an aftermarket fuse block (likely - see Painless Performance Wiring Cir-Kit Boss fuse block). I am going to put the switch on the underside of the tonneau too. That way it easily accesible and is only on when I need it to be (I don't want to have to turn on the courtesy lights just to light up the bed area).

Hope this helps.

 

I rewired the dome light and stop light that is part of my Leer 100xq cap. I ran the wires through the hole in the bed near the left turn signal. Here I tapped into the lights for the brake light, and ground. Then I ran a wire up the frame into the truck coming in through a hole into the storage compartment. There I ran across the storage area and tapped into the rear 12v power plug.
Also, I wired in a plug between the cap and truck just in case I need to remove it. I bought a 4 pin tow plug for this. I also wired a small toggle switch for the dome light.


If you need more help, just let me know. I can probably get pics as well.



Rick

 

Rick and Wombat,
Thanks a bunch for the inputs. I am on the fence right now between battery-powered and 12-volt. I like the longevity of the 12-volt system, but battery-powered has its advantages as well. Either way, I'll keep you posted on the outcome. Thanks again.

-Mike

 

I tapped into the wiring harness (larger of the two) under the passenger side rear door step. My 01' screw has a black/blue wire there that supplies +12v to the cargo light. I fused it right at the tap and ran the wire through the rubber grommet/plug that's already there. I drilled a 3/8" hole near the top front passenger side of the bed to run the wires ( my grommet there ) into. There, I put a 2 wire HD plug harness to easily disconnect it for lid removal. I have an undercover lid so was able to fish the wires through the lid to keep them out of sight. I mounted 2 small cargo lights with the 10 watt fuse type bulbs on the front side of the ribs underneath the cover. This works perfectly as you cannot directly see the lamps when standing at the tailgate. But they illuminate the whole bed without glare. And they only come on when you open the doors or turn your cargo light on. I couldn't be more pleased with how it turned out. I think it was well worth the effort.