HP Harmonic Damper
The Harmonic Damper just came in for the new motor. It is made by BHJ out in California. It is approved by NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, SCCA, etc. This piece is made for the truck engine as it is an 8 rib unit. It was the last one they had in stock.

I am also installing a HP flex plate (flywheel) and the entire assembly, balancer, crank, and flexplate will be 0 balanced as a unit. I will post pictures of the flex plate when it comes in.

I am also installing a HP flex plate (flywheel) and the entire assembly, balancer, crank, and flexplate will be 0 balanced as a unit. I will post pictures of the flex plate when it comes in.
WOW, that is a fabulous, incredibly marvelously nice looking piece.
Seriously, I think you will be pleased with the damper. I am prejudiced though, I designed it. BHJ was my livelyhood until I sold it three years ago.
Be sure to have the press fit checked and follow the instructions for the interference fit.
By the way, I amsure they can/will make more.
Seriously, I think you will be pleased with the damper. I am prejudiced though, I designed it. BHJ was my livelyhood until I sold it three years ago.
Be sure to have the press fit checked and follow the instructions for the interference fit.
By the way, I amsure they can/will make more.
Last edited by madferraristi; Oct 3, 2002 at 07:37 PM.
Wow Madferristi, tell me more. I am having an ATI pulley built for it. I can't figure out how this thing works. The one I have is steel and pretty heavy. It looks like it will rust here in Florida so I was wondering if I can powder coat it with out ruining it? I sent in an email to their web site with that question. It has a ring which is crimped in place on the face and I just don't see how it works, although I know it does. I was very impressed with the workmanship and the balance. There is just one little balance hole drilled on the back side and that is all.

My stock Ford unit has two big holes drilled fairly close together which you can see in the top photo. I would appreciate anything you could tell me about it.

My stock Ford unit has two big holes drilled fairly close together which you can see in the top photo. I would appreciate anything you could tell me about it.
Last edited by Flats Man; Oct 3, 2002 at 09:20 PM.
The principle of operation of the BHJ Damper is identical to the OEM unit, while you can't see it, there is an elasomer insert behind the snap ring. I decided not to try to reinvent the wheel but to improve upon the OEM execution.
In order for a damper design to meet SFI specs. the outer inertia ring must be failsafe mounted. One side of the ring has a fence or lip extending in, past the OD of the inner hub and the other side has a snap ring that is installed after assembly (insertion of the elastomer ring) but prior to balancing. In this manner, if the rubber should somehow disappear, the ring would remain captured and not become a lethal missile. This happened numerous times back in the early eighty's and after two mortal injuries, it resulted in the NHRA adopting SFI spec. 18-1 as a requirement for all but stock classes.
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In order for a damper design to meet SFI specs. the outer inertia ring must be failsafe mounted. One side of the ring has a fence or lip extending in, past the OD of the inner hub and the other side has a snap ring that is installed after assembly (insertion of the elastomer ring) but prior to balancing. In this manner, if the rubber should somehow disappear, the ring would remain captured and not become a lethal missile. This happened numerous times back in the early eighty's and after two mortal injuries, it resulted in the NHRA adopting SFI spec. 18-1 as a requirement for all but stock classes.
CONTINUED NEXT POST-
Last edited by madferraristi; Oct 4, 2002 at 05:08 AM.
There are numerous competitive designs that also meet the SFI spec. (e.g. Fluidampr and Rattler) but the Elastomer design continues to be the most effective as witnessed by the fact that almost all Winston Cup teams depend on them for the best engine protection.
Regarding your question about powder coating the damper. I, and I hope they, will advise against it because the 400F temperature used to cure the coating can effect the elastomer. However, a coat of clear urethane (you favorite bodyshop can do it next time they are painting) works great.
I am sure you will be pleased with your selection.
By the way, check out their site at- See http://www.bhjinc.com
Regarding your question about powder coating the damper. I, and I hope they, will advise against it because the 400F temperature used to cure the coating can effect the elastomer. However, a coat of clear urethane (you favorite bodyshop can do it next time they are painting) works great.
I am sure you will be pleased with your selection.
By the way, check out their site at- See http://www.bhjinc.com
Last edited by madferraristi; Oct 4, 2002 at 05:16 AM.
madferraristi , That is great info! Now I understand how it works and I will use clear urethane for sure. You are right on about the 400 degrees, that was the problem I was having with the stock damper. Congratulations on designing a great product and thanks for the web site.


