Dang. Every time I think I have figured out everything I need, something else pops up. Now its a PIAA valence....Just read two-year old thread where PIAA quit making them and everyone wants one now. I got into '97-03 F150's about 5 years late.....Thanks for info.

 

PIAA or STX or Harley are good choices for valences

 

lol you dont need a PIAA valence.

is there a way you can remove the license plate on the front?

 

Well, I have a hard time distinguishing between s--t I need and s--t I just want.

I was trying to figure out where I could move the plate to, but everywhere I thought of was just too weird. Maybe the state of Texas won't mind if drill a
s--tload of holes in my plate. It would be the trickest license plate "porting job" ever seen on an F150. Even better I'll mount fans behind it......No one on else on here will have a Spal-equipped license plate.........

 

The more I think about Str8tSix's comment the funnier it seems..... What I "need" is a 2-wheel drive XL F150 with a six-cylinder engine for nifty gas mileage. But what I've "got" is a pretty cherry 5.4 FX4 XLT and a $2,500 pile of blower parts and big f--ing monkey on my back telling me I need $2,500 more (including the gauges I am jones'ing for), and a wife shaking her head in combined irritation and mystification at the entire phenomenon..........

k9dr

 

LMAO!!!


i hear ya on that! but what fun is a 2wd xl 6cyl when
you can have a big powerful supercharged 4wd beast!!

 

As many jokes as I crack, I think that is about the first time I have succeeded in making anybody on here laugh (well, one other time maybe, but at the same time everyone else was getting worked up and telling me to quit beating my dog......)..............

Next objective: Tarajerame. That crusty $#$#@!! doesn't laugh at s--t.

 

Cool. Thats a big HE!

 

Well, where The Commander and carparts are concerned, I have a couple of advantages: 1) She has had for years a huge f--ing moneypit called a HORSE. Trust me, a boat has nothing on a horse. Can you say "colic?" 2) Her disinterest in automobiles and their innards verges on autism. E.g. the blower has sat for two years on a spare tack trunk in the garage where she has to walk around it to get to her car and she has not once asked what it is or what it is doing there or (crucially) what it cost me.

That being said, Mama didn't raise no dumb boy. When I resumed buying carparts, I was having her do PayPals for me because I am kind of a Luddite where computers/internet are concerned. We hit the $250.00 mark and she asks me "what ARE those packages?" I say, blandly..."carparts." No comment (Thank you, Horse).

Next day got my own paypal account. Attached to my own checking account. Stealthier than a radar-absorbing B-2. Muahahahahahahaha......!

k9dr

 

Thats a lot of info. That is going to take some digesting. I did buy a Lightning harness with my blower but I thought that there was no point in using it because my NA PCM will not have the "channels" for "other" IAT and the BAP.........I don't have a Lightning PCM and no point in having one because it won't work with my 4r70w and 4X4.......

k9dr

 

Crash! Quote:

"Once the conversion is done the PCM can compensate for altitude. Once you are up and running, and change altitude, go WOT and hold it for over 10 seconds and the PCM will recalibrate automatically. Then over time the PCM will revise the lookup tables based on your driving technique.

Called an Adaptive Strategy, the PCM learns how you drive. Car computers have been learning since 1984. Now they are good at it. Drive like grandpa and it will retard timing and reduce injector PW. Drive it like you stole it, and timing is advanced and it adds fuel. It takes time to write to the long term fuel trim tables so this process needs to take place over a week or so."

That is wild-- I didn't know that. Where can I read more about it? WTF are "look up tables" and "fuel trim tables?"

Quote:

"The F-stock F-150 does not have a BAP. The BAP is used for reference for a boost dump system that will open the blower discharge side at a set over rev or boost level. This I have only seen during a burnout and ignorance led the driver to hit the rev limiter. Then it trips the light, sets a code and the run is over, time to hit the pits."

"The BAP and rev-limiter are used to prevent embarrassing boost dump on burnout or a high RPM launch, because the PCM goes to "Limp Home mode", the truck lays down, and sets a code. No more racing unless you have a scan tool handy to clear the code and make another pass."

OK, now you are addressing something I am very curious about-- the role of the BAP on L engine. It has to do with the boost dump? It somehow prevents boost dump when boost dump is wrong course of action? Boost is dumped when you hit over-rev or over-boost, right? So how is barometric pressure related to that, to preventing boost dump from occurring when not necessary?

But this does imply to me that I can do without the BAP-- my Powertrain (NA engine and PCM and harness, with blower bolted on, PCM re-tuned, and IAT reading post-intercooler temp) will function just fine on closed loop operations using MAF and O2 sensors and all.....

Quote:

"to find there are three tapeouts (Harness connectors) that have no home, like IAT 2 and the BAP and Boost dump."

OK, answers another question. So exact difference between NA harness and L harness (and between the two PCMs) is the presence of the BAP and boost dump tapeouts/functions (according to your post I quote above these are related functions and not essential to the engine's operation) in the L, and the presence of IAT1 in the L (nice to have but not essential, can be "tuned around").

I think "vice" sums them up nicely-- my new Ford habit and wife's horse deal. "Hobby" does not quite express what is really happening......

I am no racer. I'm a daily driver. I generally drive like a grandpa but I like something to happen (besides the engine just making more noise) when I hit the gas to pass somebody. I think I am going to install the OEM I/C in the stock location behind the bumper, maybe extend the brackets to give it a little more space, and strap a couple fans to it, and see how it goes.

 

Thanks!Crash! Cool references. I have a notebook and when I find or get shown cool s--t like this I print it out and put it in the notebook and study it. F--ing fascinating.

You appear to not mind answering questions, so I'll keep asking. How does the introduction of metered amounts of exhaust gas to intake manifold at partial throttle prevent detonation?

Yeah, I've been in contact with Mike Dunn quite a bit, and now that my kit is mostly complete I am finishing it off with some MAD products- looks like I will get the first edition of the brand new Dual MADfan. I hope that will be a good thing.

k9dr

PS-- Who is JDM and how are they with f--ing noobs and stupid questions?

 

Reading Jbravo's thread and the advice given to him brings questions to my callow mind:

6Jeff6 Quote: "Your tune needs to be more aggressive but you have to have the injectors and fuel system to put it there safely."

Q1: Meaning if you are bringing in tons of air and your fuel supply hits its limits one or more cylinders can go lean and Boom? Is this what all the fuss is about with people buying '97 rails and aftermarket fuel regulators and then 60lb injectors? Not just to make horsepower but to keep from starving fuel, going lean, and going Boom?

Crash! "Quote: Lose the Iridium plugs. No Platinum plugs either. Blowers need a copper plug, a cooler heat range, and a .035" gap. Do NOT take a .045" plug and narrow the gap to .035". The relationship between the electrodes needs to be perfectly perpendicular. This is more important than the actual gap."

"On the 2-valve engines... For the NON-PI heads, the Motorcraft part number is an AWSF 32C. For the PI heads, it is an AGSF 32C. Both gapped to .035". Use an NGK equivalent, as the side electrode will burn off and kill the cylinder BEFORE you blow the ring lands or hammer holes in pistons."

Q2: What do you mean "NGK equivalent?" I have been told to use NGK TR6. Would you have same advice for me? (Bone stock N/A F150 with L blower strapped on and making maybe 8 lbs boost-- I.e. Grandma's daily driver).

Q3: Whats a PI, NON-PI head?

Crash! Quote: "For blown applications, back pressure is imperative."

Q4: I don't get the back-pressure thing. Resistance means flow and horsepower lost, at any RPM, right? Or are there some effects of resonance/interactions between exhaust pulses that i am missing?

Crash! Quote: "NEXT is oil control. The cheapest and an effective way to do this on the ProCharger is to install a brake booster check valve inline between the manifold vacuum source and the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover."

Q5: Oil control on Procharger is different matter than on OEM eaton right? Same problem but different vacuum/PVC routing and fix? I have read that the cheap oil separators out there work great at first, but then quit working as they clog and also are a PITA because one has to drain the oil. I was planning on biting the bullet and buying the $180 L&S. Different advice?

Crash! quote: "If you have one (oil separator) installed, it needs to be sealed on a draw thru MAF setup. Air can only be metered ONCE to ensure calibration. A vent is the same as a vacuum leak and will alter A/F ratios and cause drivability problems. On a blow thru MAF, it is OK to have the separator vent to atmosphere, and you can also vent the bypass to atmosphere because this occurs before the charge enters the MAF."

Q6: With an Eaton L setup, I am running a draw-through MAF setup. The vents for PCv etc are after MAF, before blower. Problem?

Crash! I'd be happy to call if it would be easier for you, and if you would allow. Some of the info in JBravo's thread may not apply to me because I am building Grandma's S/C ride, but even when it does not apply, I like learning more. I'm in it because I want to learn about engines and cars, and.....Who knows, I may wind up getting bored with Grandma's ride and going bigger one of these days!

Thanks,

k9dr