Amsoil Signature Series extended mileage use?
Thanks for the info Otto. Very helpful.
I'm not sure I'm sold on Amsoil. From what I've read Redline is the only ester based oil. So I am torn between the two. I have been using Mobil 1 fully syn in everything I own since I was a teenager. Very pleased with it. Currently I use the 5w20 in the truck and change it every 2000-2500 miles or right after drag racing. I understand the needs of doing this based upon fuel getting past the rings (especially with FI) and the stress the oil is under in this motor. In my other vehicles over the years I have enjoyed the extended change intervals of the fully syn but I would never do it with this truck. I dont mind the frequent oil changes but if something is out there that can provide better protection then I want to know about it.
I'm not sure I'm sold on Amsoil. From what I've read Redline is the only ester based oil. So I am torn between the two. I have been using Mobil 1 fully syn in everything I own since I was a teenager. Very pleased with it. Currently I use the 5w20 in the truck and change it every 2000-2500 miles or right after drag racing. I understand the needs of doing this based upon fuel getting past the rings (especially with FI) and the stress the oil is under in this motor. In my other vehicles over the years I have enjoyed the extended change intervals of the fully syn but I would never do it with this truck. I dont mind the frequent oil changes but if something is out there that can provide better protection then I want to know about it.
Scamsoil is nothing more than a blender and packager of oil. They buy their base stock from REAL oil companies. The real problem is they use a pyramid marketing scheme that highly inflates the price of their products, and this is why they push extended oil change intervals to justify the high prices. Also, if your vehicle is still under warranty, only a few of their oils are API certified. ALL US vehicle manufacturers require the use of API certified oil products for the warranty to stay valid.
And check this TSB from Scamsoil out. For manufacturers with engines known to sludge, they recommend using XL (an API certified oil) and
following the manufacturers recommended oil change interval, none of this 15K mile BS!
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/T...dge-issues.pdf
Some engines are more prone to sludging than other engines. VW and Audi have these engines, so they developed their own test and specs for oil
sludging. Here are the oils that PASS their tests:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf
http://dejong947.com/audi/tsb/audi.tb.17-05-01.pdf
Notice there are NO Scamsoil products listed, but Mobil 1 is.
Check this out, an excellent article on engine oil:
http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm
My favorite line from this article is:
"I stay away from Amsoil for reasons that are far too detailed."
Last edited by Takeda; Jan 11, 2012 at 11:31 AM.
I wasn't looking into amsoil to save money, just be able to extend the interval at which I change my oil. Again not trying to skimp on the change, but at times when i am putting miles on like crazy its a pain in the a** to constantly have to change it.
Maybe ill just guinea pig and run the amsoil, and have it tested at certain mileage intervals.
Maybe ill just guinea pig and run the amsoil, and have it tested at certain mileage intervals.
I wasn't looking into amsoil to save money, just be able to extend the interval at which I change my oil. Again not trying to skimp on the change, but at times when i am putting miles on like crazy its a pain in the a** to constantly have to change it.
Maybe ill just guinea pig and run the amsoil, and have it tested at certain mileage intervals.
Maybe ill just guinea pig and run the amsoil, and have it tested at certain mileage intervals.
After reading Takeda's post maybe I won't.
Guess I should use something like Mobil 1 and have the oil analysis done at intervals to truly determine at what mileage interval I need to be changing my oil. This way I know for sure.
Guess I should use something like Mobil 1 and have the oil analysis done at intervals to truly determine at what mileage interval I need to be changing my oil. This way I know for sure.
It's a shame that you'll let one guys negative reply run you off from a high quality, proven product. Hater's are gonna hate. There's a ton of negative info out about Mobil 1 recently but everyone want's to bag on Amsoil.
Last edited by Galaxy; Jan 11, 2012 at 01:45 PM.
So ill try out both oils eventually. I'm thinking ill still start with the amsoil and sample it at certain intervals. Since most are using Mobil 1 and already know its great, ill try out the amsoil.
I'm not really concerned about sludging, I would never let my oil change interval go that long. I'll have the testing done someone previously mentioned, I've got more research and learning to do before I go about this though. As I stated before I know very little about oil products.
I'm not really concerned about sludging, I would never let my oil change interval go that long. I'll have the testing done someone previously mentioned, I've got more research and learning to do before I go about this though. As I stated before I know very little about oil products.
I'm actually thinking of switching over to Amsoil 10w30 a.d extending the change intervals a bit. Right now I run Mobil 1 fully syn 5w20. But with the 170 stat I run I'm leaning towards 10w30 with the Amsoil. I'll forward you a link to some info on this from the GT500 forums.
What makes you want to change to 10w30 from 5w20 when you change the thermostat?
My 0w20 looks almost new when I do an oil change once a year. Maybe its due to a synthetic only oil filter I dunno but it looks great. I've seen all sorts of things shooting down every kind of oil and you just have to try it and see for yourself, that goes for all oils.
Good question. I wont delve into my opinions/inputs about cooler thermostats because I know very little about forced inducted motors but as a general rule, running a cooler thermostat (combined with an appropriate radiator with the capacity to make it run as cool as the thermostat is rated) is going to force your oil to run a bit cooler. Don't know why you'd want to run a heavier oil with cooler temps. These motors don't run hot on the oil temp anyways, usually averaging around 100 degrees over ambient, which is barely warm, much less hot by oil standards.
Run Amsoil, everyone has an opinion on this subject. I searched the web and in independent tests Amsoil always won out over redline, rpurple, and mobil1 . If it hadn't I wouldn't be running it. I'm sure the others are more than sufficient . I just drive hard and want the best for my truck. Surf the web for independent studies and documented proof, On here or any forum you'll always get someone who claims to know it all and most likely doesn't know s**t.
I'm not going to promote or degrade any oil company. Each has their own method of business, which has nothing to do with the composition of the oils. The sludging claims are really a misnomer. Most every oil has pretty good protection against it, especially Group III+ oils. Some people still believe SOPUS products, for example, sludge which is an age old myth. Those lists are engines that will sludge with the best or worst oil, hence the recommendation. Same with the certifications, yes a certified oil you can be sure it meets the specs, but if an oil isn't certified doesn't mean it doesn't meet the standards. The company just hasn't put the thousand of dollars to get the certs. We live in a great age where we have VOA, UOA, and base composition information. Find or do a VOA of an oil you want to use, compared the add packs against each other, use the oil of your choice, then do UOA to see how it held up. UOA isn't the end all be all to it, but it gives a good reference point for your application. Beating the dead horse of "I hate ABC company because I like XYZ company" really isn't constructive. If you're an oil nut like myself, I invite everyone over to BITOG where you'll find more info on oils.
I'm going to give the amsoil a go, just not yet. I'd still like to learn more about oils and additives before I start trying to increase the miles between changes. Like twinskrewd said, its not worth it to ruin the motor over a few bucks or laziness to change the oil at shorter intervals, but if I can do it and know its safe thats something I will try out. During the summer my truck goes through hell like temperatures, moving at slow speeds on the hot soft sand, constantly towing people out. I imagine my oil would break down rather quickly than most of you who don't put your truck through heat like that. I always watch my temps though to keep everything safe.
Galaxy: I thought he was just talking about sludging from not changing it often enough, guess not lol
Galaxy: I thought he was just talking about sludging from not changing it often enough, guess not lol
I've spent a little time today at Bob's, great info there but too much to take up in one day! Lol. It's tonne take me a little while to fully understand everything, after that I will start my personal "experimenting" with the amsoil.
Those lists are engines that will sludge with the best or worst oil, hence the recommendation. Same with the certifications, yes a certified oil you can be sure it meets the specs, but if an oil isn't certified doesn't mean it doesn't meet the standards. The company just hasn't put the thousand of dollars to get the certs.


