5.L turbo charger

Old Oct 12, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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5.L turbo charger

I have an '02 King Ranch 4x4 and I want to put a single turbo on it. What size turbo should I run? I don't want to go extreme or anything (whatever a 24lb injector would support) probably not wanting to push over 6psi at 3000 rpm.

I have a single in/out flowmaster 40 series with both rear cats removed, sct programmer that I can have tuned for the turbo, and 5.13 gears for my 38" tires. I just want a little more get-up but don't want to go crazy and BLOW-UP.

Planning on getting beefed up coils, 90mm mass air, cold air intake, underdrive pulleys, 24# injectors (that i got new for $60), along with custom tune regardless of whether I do turbo or not.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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What do you know about turbo charging? Not trying to offend you but im guessing not much if you plan to run 24s. I run 39s on my truck and a 70mm turbo, motor is 4.6l

Are you building the kit or is some one else building it?

Front mount or rear?

You don't need a bigger maf, stock size will be fine.

Ditch the flowmaster, chamberd mufflers and turbos don't mix.

anything between 62 & 70mm will work for you.

How much money do you plan to spend. The fact they you are sticking with the 24s because you got then cheap makes me worried you aren't prepared for the expense.

Please don't take offense to anything I said just trying to help
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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Luckythirteen13:
No, I don't know much about turbos, but I imagine it would be cheaper to piece together than buying all the parts for a lightning s/c swap. The 24# injectors I just picked up from a guy and figured that $60 wasn't a bad price for them being new (they all work for sure) but I'm not against upgrading. If I were to run a turbo I would probably run it under the cab. I don't do much offroad anymore and I think an air filter would be fine under there.

I'm not wanting to push much out of it so if it's not worth it, what do you think about running these mods:

75mm throttle body (already installed)
Cold air intake
Shorty headers
Mass air sensor
Leave the 40 series w/ just the two cats (current setup)
Hotter coils
24# Injectors
BBK underdrive pulleys
SCT custom tune to bring it all together

What would you leave out of this list or add to it?

Thanks for the info
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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Pretty much get rid of half of that list

75mm throttle body (already installed)
Cold air intake
Long tube headers
BBK underdrive pulleys
SCT custom tune to bring it all together

The other stuff you had listed wont help any.

Also 38's 5.13's and turbo=new transmission every month, plan to have a built trans with that setup.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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Thanks for the help, a lot of this stuff will be done a little at a time
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=151181.0

You might want to do some reading here.....
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=146119.0

here are a bunch of pics from my build. the only thing i changed since the pics were taken is the intake where the maf is mounted. i ended up just buying a stock diameter maf housing and using the stock maf sensor. about $1500 in parts total so you are correct, much cheaper then a supercharger but i can also cut and weld metal. if you cant its going to cost a lot more. you can also go to corral.net and look for turbo parts. i found a guy on there selling a brand new turbo, wg, bov, intercooler and a bunch of pipping for about $450 or so, saved me a fortune. his loss was my gain.
..........i am aware corral is a mustang site but they gave a huge classified section and turbo parts are universal......

sell the injectors and go bigger. even if you stay n/a, the 24s wont get you any hp. they are a supporting mod, only need to upgrade the fuel system when your motor is pumping through it more air then the current injectors can handle.

i have 37s on my truck and was worried about the tranny too. i ended up buying a performance valve body from troyer to ensure higher tranny oil pressure so the clutches wouldnt be able to slip (leading to heat and shortening the life of the tranny). so far so good, the tranny is still plenty strong, no issues what so ever. even towed my mustang (3400#ish) on a uhaul trailer (2200#) from socal to vegas a couple weeks ago. no issues with the tranny and temps were plenty cool

under the truck is the easiest way to do it. there is where mine is. my truck only had 2 cats stock and they are still in place so i can still pass smog just as the truck sits........just passed smog when i registered my truck in vegas 2 weeks ago


if you dont go turbo, dont bother with installing the 24s, different coils, cai or a new maf sensor. none of them will get you any power

if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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luckythirteen13
I clicked on the link you sent and got a 404 error or whatever. Thanks for the info, I do know some guys that can do the pipe fab for me for a case of beer or two so I'm good there...So what sizes of injectors and blowoff valves/wastegates blah blah blah do I need? What psi should I expect? And I can get my trans shift pressure up through programming but is that as good as doing a different valve body? What particular turbo model are you working with?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
You want to use a valve body to increase the flow then the custom tune will dial in the line pressures among other thing.....
 
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 88racing
You want to use a valve body to increase the flow then the custom tune will dial in the line pressures among other thing.....
absolutely correct. tuning can only get you so far, then you need mechanical parts to take you further.

i run a 38mm wg and i think the bov is the same. i have a 10psi spring in my gate and im seeing 8psi. thats with the boost line running from the intake manifold to the wg in the back of the truck. if i hooked the boost line directly to the turbo, the turbo would only make about 6psi. point is, your combo of parts and where you run your boost reference line will effect how much boost you get from a given spring. id buy a gate with an 8psi spring and get a boost controller. that way you can adjust the boost on the dyno without changing the spring. i didnt bother to do that with my truck, it just runs off spring pressure. my mustang tho i have an electric boost controller. the ebc is nice you can set a spring pressure which is the pressure you want the gate to open. what most people dont realize or think about is that the wg opens before the spring pressure is reached to slow the turbo down so you dont have any boost spikes just before the gate opens. this causes you to hit full boost at a slightly higher rpm. the ebc can keep the gate closed till a set pressure is hit. not really needed since you probably arent going to race the truck.

try this link
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=146119.0
 
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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I have a list of questions for you...to build some knowledge...
1. Where did you tap into the motor for oil line?
2. What size is all your intake piping from turbo to tb?
3. Same question as #2 for the exhaust.
4. What brand of turbo should I go with?
5. What size intercooler and are those things a non-fluid type cooler?
6. Are any of those 38mm ebay bov's/wastegate combos good?
7. Did you have to upgrade fuel pump?

So basically I want to "steal" your design for my truck (because it looks great) and once its all together let a performance shop take it from there... I have the friends with the smarts and skills and I can basically map out your setup. Am I in over my head?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 12:46 AM
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poor truck, 24#ers run out of fuel with a decent N/A setup, let alone under boost so they might support 3# of boost with stock heads and cams

not to mention the 90mm MAF
 

Last edited by stoffer; Oct 15, 2011 at 12:49 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 03fx4driver
I have a list of questions for you...to build some knowledge...
1. Where did you tap into the motor for oil line?
2. What size is all your intake piping from turbo to tb?
3. Same question as #2 for the exhaust.
4. What brand of turbo should I go with?
5. What size intercooler and are those things a non-fluid type cooler?
6. Are any of those 38mm ebay bov's/wastegate combos good?
7. Did you have to upgrade fuel pump?

1. you dont have to tap anything. i unhooked the oil pressure sending unit from the bottom driver's side of the motor and put a t fitting on. then i hooked the sender back on and then off the t ran the oil line back to the turbo. since with a rear mount kit you need an oil pump to send the motor back to the motor, i just ran the oil line to the valve cover on the passenger side.....stole that from sts
2. the piping from the turbo to the tb is 3"
3. exhaust is stock until you get to the catback. i had a magnaflow on there before which is 3". i used some of the catback and a couple of 3" pieces my buddy donated to me to finish off the exhaust.
4.depends on how much money you want to spend. i run a turbo that came from on3performance (chinese turbo). i run twin 57mm ebay turbos on my stang (also chinese) and have never had any issues with them. if you want to go with a higher quality but dont have a ton of cash, go with masterpower. great quality and low price......think they are in finland. and if you want top of the line, turbonetics
5.i run an a/a intercooler but they do make a/w intercooler. pointless unless its a really high hp car that sees most track time or you dont have room up front for an ic but on our trucks there is PLENTY of room. i dont recall the dimensions of the ic but i know it has 3" inlet/outlet so i know the core is 3" in thick. its about as wide as the radiator but not quite as tall. with our trucks, if your going to mount yours like mine, its almost impossible to buy one that is too big.
6. the wg on my truck is a tial which is top of the line. my mustang runs twin ebay wg's (chinese) and they work perfect. if you buy off ebay, take the wg apart and make sure the piston moves freely. china has stepped up there game and is making some decent knock offs. i would never spend big bux on a bov, ebay all the way. same thing with that tho, take it apart, make sure the spring isnt too stiff, or that there are two springs in it, and make sure the piston moves freely.
7.im running the stock fuel pump with a BAP

take your time doing research and youll be fine. there are a lot of parts to a turbo kit but its not voodoo.

another build you can look at. has some good videos to watch too
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=142130.0

this is the oil pump i use
http://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_23220_series.html
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Luckythirteen13
You have been a LOT of help...just a couple more questions and I'm out of you hair I PROMISE...
1. You said you use an a/a intercooler...whats a/a? I'm not too good with acronyms.
2.Will I be ok with just the two stock pre cats and 2.5" exhaust to the turbo then 3" from the turbo back? I kinda want to run a Y pipe with 2.5" and magnaflows after turbo if I dual it, but is that ok or should i just go with single 3" and a magaflow?
3. Truck is an 02 5.4L 2V, so with the setup you are running, should I expect higher, lower, or about the same HP gain?
4. What size flanges do I need for exhaust side and intake of the turbo?
5. I have an SCT X3 Powerflash...will I be able to get all the parameters that I need set with that model?

I appreciate the help and I will send you pics of my progress after I get rolling on this!!!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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Oh crap...and will I be ok running stock exhaust manifolds?
 
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