none taken personally, i know squat about turbos. the input is appreciated. its nice to have someone that actually HAS a turbo setup

couple things i dont get.... hey im a noob

wouldnt extra piping cause more lag??? i quess its not noticable

i got the part where the BOV works of vacuum, not positive pressure

the sandwhich solution i was just throwing out there, although the one claims to be for turbos. i take your word for it. the fittings are large and the oil is getting pumped through ther. just as easy to tap the pan i quess

i read somewhere it had happened someone with the water getting sucked up, glad to hear it didnt happen to you.

so your are you running a I/C on your f150???

the scavanger pump, would you have a 't' fitting on the pump or run the one turbo into the other in series??????

sorry for so many q's:o

 

the extra piping makes little to no difference, a couple hundred rpm at best. look at any professional car running a turbo. the turbo will be mounted all the way at the front bumper, air is then pumped from the turbo back into the car where the intercooler is mounted in the location of the passenger seat and then it goes back through the firewall and to the motor. they run tons of piping too. the turbo is spinning 100,000rpm or more, its pumping a lot of air very quickly.

if the sandwich your looking at has large feed holes it may work, most arent designed for that, plus i think, I THINK, that oil is pre filter but dont hold me to it.

yes i am running an ic on my f150

yes, t the oil line coming from the turbos to the pump. you should run a .5" line from the turbos to the pump. or if your using AN lines, -10 hose and fittings. -8 will work but with twins id go -10 at the least between the t fitting and the pump

no reason to tap the pan, i get my oil from the factory oil pressure sending unit, just put a t on that. and then i run the oil from the pump back up to the valve cover.

and you can pump boost over your maf all day long, wont do anything to it. it has no idea. you just need to tune for it.

here is my build....not totally up to date witht he photos, i changed the air meter, no photos of that http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=146119.0

here is another thread with a great rear mount build http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=142130.0

 

thanks for clearing some of the slop up.
nice links too...

 

255 pump
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/tu270hp.html

 

This is probably all you need if ya want to save some money.
http://treperformance.com/i-6321439-...2004-2007.html

 

what are your guys opinion on running a separate oil system for the turbos?????
1#oil wont blow past seals when engine is turned off, no valve or timer needed
2#wont coke/destroy/breakdown engine oil as fast or add extra containments/fragments,especially if turbos fail.
3#can use oil specific to the turbos, ie viscosity etc
4#engine oil wont heat up as fast/much

i was thinkin maybe x2 catch tanks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Civic-750ml-...ht_5295wt_1392

then a oil/tranny cooler
universal-transmission-cooler
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-820500-U...ht_2141wt_1159

and possible a filter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trans-Dapt-P...ht_1463wt_1159

 

turbo for dummies article---->

http://www.custom-car.us/turbo/default.aspx

 

Nice!

 

completely unnecessary. a lot of people have talked about it on the turbo forums but ive only seen it done once.
i have a $10 check valve that keeps my turbo oil seals safe so much cheaper then a stand alone system.
the oil doesnt pick up contaminants from the turbo. the oil only touches the very center of the shaft and is no where near the exhaust. the only contaminants youll get will be from the motor and you have to change that oil at the same rate with or without the turbo so no reason to separate the system on that account.
the turbo doesnt need special oil, its just a spinning shaft, there is no side load. its not like a motor that relies on hydraulic pressure to keep the parts from rubbing on each other.
there is a reason your engine has a cooling system.....to keep the engine and its oil cool. even with my turbo my truck runs at 194* all day long. i cant say for all remote kits but on mine, i run copper line feeding the turbo and then copper from the pump back to the motor so all that copper line acts as a cooler. many people have posted about running a cooler before the turbo on remote kits and the answer is the same every time, absolutely no reason


when the oil pump is used as a scavenger to just send the oil back to the motor, if the pump fails, oil gets pushed into the turbo and you will know its happening because white smoke will pure from the exhaust. you simply take the turbo off, clean it out, reinstall and your good to run. nothing is damaged. there are no actual oil seals in a turbo. the oil is just sprayed in a way that it stays in the center as long as you dont force in too much oil (thats why you run a restrictor)
if the pump is used in a closed system, if it fails, the turbo is starved of oil and the turbo is ruined. there will be no way of knowing the pump died because there will be no smoke.

 

thanks for the details lucky. very informational

now im scrappin the twin ebay turbos idea for a single 'holset' turbo from a cummins 5.9l diesel.
im eyeing at the hx35 maybe the hx40.
the dsm/supra guys run them and get 500-600hp. should spool quick as well. i assume making 500hp in a 4cyl needs to move about the same air as a 8cyl.

-Hy35, flows approx 57 lbs/min
-Hx35, flows approx 60.85 lbs/min
-He351cw (Spools faster than the hx35, but makes the same power) flows approx 60.85 lbs/min
-Hx40, flows approx 70.10 lbs/min

can any1 shed some light on this

the turbo has a a t3/t4 flange and is very reliable

running the IC piping looks like the trickiest part

for now im planning on running 39 lb injectors with stock pump

my goal is not to run over 4-6 psi/350rwhp. so 400-450 crank. or when ever i run out of fuel with stock pump.....

ill run some sort of BAP and turn up the boost when i can afford a beefed up tranny(4r75e) and HD tc. im running the 4r70 and 4.6 stall which already is higher

im hoping to run stock WG and lower boost somehow? or run a external gate and maybe a boost controller

still undecided wither to have oil drain to filler cap, valve cover, oil pan or maybe oil drain plug

new price list

JY holset hx35 turbo $250
used 39/42 lb injectors $160
ebay IC + piping $140
shurflo oil pump $120
t/3 flange, vband flange, t fittings $50
oil feed + drain + fittings $50
ebay bov + flange $30

aem wideband $ 165
boost gauge $40
pillar pod $ 40

tune $400

i read a article where they installed sts turbo on a 5.3 gmc and gained 80whp with NO TUNE w STOCK injectors running at 4.75psi/.25bar. they said the A/F was safe

apparently the buick grand national 3.8 turbo didnt use a BOV

i dont get how the hx35 turbo runs 22-35psi on a 5.9 L diesel but people say its small for a 4cyl gas????

im thinking about trying using the stock plugs. running low boost .25 bar and i have HO coils. or just use stock lightning plugs

 

if you've got a single 255lph pump you'll be fine, if not, get one from a stock 5.4 truck your body style

 

so 05 3v come wtih 255?????

Those booster pumps arent that pricey and prolly easier then dropping the tank.
i was also considering those inline booster pumps like the t-rex. i was thinking sum kind of mod to hook it up through where the fuel filter is. like a loop with pump and filter then back if that makes any scense. if i drop the tank might as well get that 255 pump that drops in that you mentioned.

good website--> http://www.junkyardturbos.com/turbocharger-systems.php

so with FI i should plug the PCV right???? and run a breather???

i was going to run barb fittings for the oil lines. maybe just thread the return right into the oil drain plug hole as the return.
1/8 to turbo, 1/4 to pump then 3/8 lines(same as pump) to the return
may or may not restrictor

i still need to find those valves for the oil pressure on the inlet side

my autostart kit MIGHT have a turbo timer function, i have to look into it

i think i can utilize my stock k/n filter and DRYCHARGER with the stock housing using a 4'' to 5'' coupler like im already using. ill have to move the MAF and make custom housing using like a 4'' pipe from TB. hopefully that big enough so i dont max out the maf.

i found a local holset for 200 or best offer

after the turbo on the hot side they have a v-band turn down. i might just use that and keep it simple

 

be prepared to spend more then you estimated. hose fittings, nuts and bolts will nickel and dime to to death

 

just thought id post a few pics since these are new and how it sits now is different from when i posted my build thread both on f150forum and theturboforum



this is the breather for the crank case. the thing next to it is an oil/air separator. does a good job of keeping the smell of oil from being noticeable and also stops fine oil particles from escaping with the air



you can see how the one hose coming from the breather splits and is hooked to both valve covers


here you can see the mass air meter i run. you can also see the bov (the purple thing)


.......and just for fun

 

I might "MAN UP' and start piecing parts for a turbo set up on my 4.6

Ima ask alot of questions! lol

Oh and good work guys! Now i need motivation!!!