Gauges, Need help/opinions
Just an FYI.....
Autometer boost gauges suck ***, but they are still the some of the best... Expect it to be reading a wrong straight out of the box, and if it's not it soon will be. I've owned probably 10 Autometer gauges and all of them read wrong over time.
The best boost gauges are the completely all digital gauges. They just cost $$$$ compared to the Autometer.
Yes, look for one 30psi or less.
A fuel pressure gauge has saved my truck before....
Wideband a/f is the only way to go. There are many different kinds out there. I've always used the FJO so you can log on a laptop or what not. Is it really needed once you are tuned? No. Most hot rodders with several vehicles use a "LM-1" or whatnot and just transfer the 02 sensor/module from each vehicle when they need to check it.
Really the only time you "need" to keep a wideband controller in your vehicle is if you have it hooked up to another system to take advantage of it(aem stand alone, high dollar nitrous controller, etc.).
Now someone out there makes a combo gauge that shows boost and wide band(might be aem), If that's the case, I would use one pod for that, one for fuel pressure, and one for transmission temp. You have that edge though so it might give you those last two readings.
Autometer boost gauges suck ***, but they are still the some of the best... Expect it to be reading a wrong straight out of the box, and if it's not it soon will be. I've owned probably 10 Autometer gauges and all of them read wrong over time.
The best boost gauges are the completely all digital gauges. They just cost $$$$ compared to the Autometer.
Yes, look for one 30psi or less.
A fuel pressure gauge has saved my truck before....
Wideband a/f is the only way to go. There are many different kinds out there. I've always used the FJO so you can log on a laptop or what not. Is it really needed once you are tuned? No. Most hot rodders with several vehicles use a "LM-1" or whatnot and just transfer the 02 sensor/module from each vehicle when they need to check it.
Really the only time you "need" to keep a wideband controller in your vehicle is if you have it hooked up to another system to take advantage of it(aem stand alone, high dollar nitrous controller, etc.).
Now someone out there makes a combo gauge that shows boost and wide band(might be aem), If that's the case, I would use one pod for that, one for fuel pressure, and one for transmission temp. You have that edge though so it might give you those last two readings.
I found it. It's the Aeroforce Technology Interceptor.
Just an FYI.....
Autometer boost gauges suck ***, but they are still the some of the best... Expect it to be reading a wrong straight out of the box, and if it's not it soon will be. I've owned probably 10 Autometer gauges and all of them read wrong over time.
The best boost gauges are the completely all digital gauges. They just cost $$$$ compared to the Autometer.
Yes, look for one 30psi or less.
A fuel pressure gauge has saved my truck before....
Wideband a/f is the only way to go. There are many different kinds out there. I've always used the FJO so you can log on a laptop or what not. Is it really needed once you are tuned? No. Most hot rodders with several vehicles use a "LM-1" or whatnot and just transfer the 02 sensor/module from each vehicle when they need to check it.
Really the only time you "need" to keep a wideband controller in your vehicle is if you have it hooked up to another system to take advantage of it(aem stand alone, high dollar nitrous controller, etc.).
Now someone out there makes a combo gauge that shows boost and wide band(might be aem), If that's the case, I would use one pod for that, one for fuel pressure, and one for transmission temp. You have that edge though so it might give you those last two readings.
Autometer boost gauges suck ***, but they are still the some of the best... Expect it to be reading a wrong straight out of the box, and if it's not it soon will be. I've owned probably 10 Autometer gauges and all of them read wrong over time.
The best boost gauges are the completely all digital gauges. They just cost $$$$ compared to the Autometer.
Yes, look for one 30psi or less.
A fuel pressure gauge has saved my truck before....
Wideband a/f is the only way to go. There are many different kinds out there. I've always used the FJO so you can log on a laptop or what not. Is it really needed once you are tuned? No. Most hot rodders with several vehicles use a "LM-1" or whatnot and just transfer the 02 sensor/module from each vehicle when they need to check it.
Really the only time you "need" to keep a wideband controller in your vehicle is if you have it hooked up to another system to take advantage of it(aem stand alone, high dollar nitrous controller, etc.).
Now someone out there makes a combo gauge that shows boost and wide band(might be aem), If that's the case, I would use one pod for that, one for fuel pressure, and one for transmission temp. You have that edge though so it might give you those last two readings.
What is a good level for fuel pressure? at the moment I have my insight set up to show tranny temp, IAT, ECT, and MPG. I'm gunna get rid of MPG and put on Fuel pressure, is there anything else that I should put on as well being that it can read up to 7 things at once?
I like the Auto Meters myself. Heres what I have Boost Gauge 4907, A/F Wideband #4378 I have yet to add a third gauge so I have an empty spot. However they also make a double gauge pillar if you don't wanna go with 3. See the Amazon link below for the pillar.
Order the gauges thru Summit racing equipment and enter this code 2RETYV when you check out and you'll get 10% off.
http://www.amazon.com/04-Triple-Pill...4&sr=8-1-spell
Order the gauges thru Summit racing equipment and enter this code 2RETYV when you check out and you'll get 10% off.
http://www.amazon.com/04-Triple-Pill...4&sr=8-1-spell
I like the Auto Meters myself. Heres what I have Boost Gauge 4907, A/F Wideband #4378 I have yet to add a third gauge so I have an empty spot. However they also make a double gauge pillar if you don't wanna go with 3. See the Amazon link below for the pillar.
Order the gauges thru Summit racing equipment and enter this code 2RETYV when you check out and you'll get 10% off.
http://www.amazon.com/04-Triple-Pill...4&sr=8-1-spell

Order the gauges thru Summit racing equipment and enter this code 2RETYV when you check out and you'll get 10% off.
http://www.amazon.com/04-Triple-Pill...4&sr=8-1-spell

I put the link for it in the original post and I bought it through Amazon. Theres a two and a three cluster pod. If you do go with a three I would suggest something useful like tranny temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure. The list could go on and on. I don't think I'd waste time or $$ on a clock. But if you don't have one then so be it. Wheres the one on the radio?
Last edited by twinskrewd; Feb 8, 2010 at 06:41 PM.
I put the link for it in the original post and I bought it through Amazon. Theres a two and a three cluster pod. If you do go with a three I would suggest something useful like tranny temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure. The list could go on and on. I don't think I'd waste time or $$ on a clock. But if you don't have one then so be it. Wheres the one on the radio?
Here is some info I got from Autometer on the difference between the boost gauges
To help clarify, in most cases, boost/vacuum gauges are used on gasoline engines, boost only gauges are used on diesels (they don't produce measurable vacuum). I normally recommend using the smallest scale gauge that is appropriate for your application for best display resolution. As for the difference between mechanical and electric boost gauges, here is a write up from our website:
Mechanical and electrical boost gauges are very similar in accuracy and durability. The main differences between them are that mechanical gauges connect directly to the pressure source, whereas electric gauges have a wire harness that connects to a MAP sensor, which then connects to the pressure source.
Also, electric gauges self-calibrate every time you turn on your vehicle, unlike mechanical gauges, which should fall within the zero box when the vehicle is turned off. Occasionally a mechanical gauge can fall out of the zero box, which would require you to send the gauge to us for warrantee.
The last difference between electrical and mechanical boost gauges is additional features. Some of our electric boost gauges have additional features like peak and warning, which is not capable on a mechanical gauge. These features will allow you to look at your highest achieved boost during a run, as well as setting a warning incase your boost pressure spikes above your predetermined setting.
To help clarify, in most cases, boost/vacuum gauges are used on gasoline engines, boost only gauges are used on diesels (they don't produce measurable vacuum). I normally recommend using the smallest scale gauge that is appropriate for your application for best display resolution. As for the difference between mechanical and electric boost gauges, here is a write up from our website:
Mechanical and electrical boost gauges are very similar in accuracy and durability. The main differences between them are that mechanical gauges connect directly to the pressure source, whereas electric gauges have a wire harness that connects to a MAP sensor, which then connects to the pressure source.
Also, electric gauges self-calibrate every time you turn on your vehicle, unlike mechanical gauges, which should fall within the zero box when the vehicle is turned off. Occasionally a mechanical gauge can fall out of the zero box, which would require you to send the gauge to us for warrantee.
The last difference between electrical and mechanical boost gauges is additional features. Some of our electric boost gauges have additional features like peak and warning, which is not capable on a mechanical gauge. These features will allow you to look at your highest achieved boost during a run, as well as setting a warning incase your boost pressure spikes above your predetermined setting.
I always run an electric fuel pressure gauge, no questions about it. Think of it this way.
You have a live fuel(oil/coolant) hose coming into your truck which is not the best and safest idea in the world. Imagine what would happen if you get into an accident and that fuel hose gets ruptured...
Boost gauge doesn't matter. What does matter is anything that can spray a liquid into the cabin, go electrical.
You have a live fuel(oil/coolant) hose coming into your truck which is not the best and safest idea in the world. Imagine what would happen if you get into an accident and that fuel hose gets ruptured...
Boost gauge doesn't matter. What does matter is anything that can spray a liquid into the cabin, go electrical.
Personally I wouldn't worry much about a fuel pressure gauge. If it goes lean the A/F meters gonna get my attention instantly. Then i would hook up the SCT, Diablo, Scan Gauge or whatever to see what my rail pressure is and start trouble shooting from there.
I have my edge insight set up right now to tell me the fuel pressure. its showing my pressure at right around 50psi, is that a good range? ALso, what is a safe hi and low number for fuel pressure? Just so I know if im in a safe range or not. thanks


