I'm running the non i/c roush kit right now, with the stock roush tune

Having a new tranny built right now, 3000 rpm stall, shift kit, etc and I'm ready to upgrade the rest of the truck.

I ordered my 2lb lower yesterday and I'm planning on running a Walbro 255 fuel pump with a Kenne Bell boost a pump and 42lb injectors. Complete dyno tune and all this go around.

Anyone recommend anything different or is there any holes to be shot in this setup?

 

You don't need a stall that high!
And a water/meth kit will help keep things cool.

Phil

 

Intercooler kit. Roush makes them for the non-intercooler Roush superchargers.

 

what about efans? or long tube headers a nice x pipe?

 

Well the stall is already here and in it, whoever said anything about need? It should be fun though

And I'm planning on a water/meth kit in the near future. Someone needs to sell me one for the low low

 

Yeah but it cost as much as the kit itself. I'm gonna do a water/meth kit to keep it cool in the future but my truck is more of toy than anything now.

Efans for sure, might be a little bit on the headers.

I was just basically looking to see if anyone saw any flaws with the combo of parts I was going with.

 

do you know if you need the injectors and pump for only 2 more psi? you should call troyer (as you will be needing a tune anyway) and see what he says. i get the feeling that the stock fuel system should be able to handle it. if so, maybe you could use the money you save towards some headers or efans...

of course if you are planning more boost in the future, you may need those upgrades. but i dont know if over 8 psi on a non intercooled setup would be safe, again ask troyer...

i would also like to see how the water meth kits would affect performance. troyer doesnt recommend it, but im not sure why, it sure seems like it would help us non i/c guys...

also look into new rear end gears for added performance depending on what you have now. with the troyer tunes, pacesetter(cheap) LT headers and 3.55-4.10 swap, i lost at least 6-8 tenths on the 1/4 mile! and it only cost me around $800(labor done by me though...)

 

I have got conflicting stories from Troyer... One tuner there told me I could run it on the stock pump/injectors, and so did Mike around January. I finally get ready to do the thing, call to order the pulley and the story totally changed to now that I need their one off fuel system and that is the only way it will work. I know that they know their stuff, but I feel like I'm talking more to a salesman anytime I call that shop

I myself think the stock stuff should handle it fine, but I rather be safe than sorry.

There are plenty of record holding cars running water/meth kits and have been doing it for a long time.

A set of 4.10s would be fun though, currently at 3.73 so it's not bad

 

Don't waste your time going to 4.10's if you've already got 3.73. You need to go a least 2 steps up or down when changing gears, otherwise its not worth the expense. You won't notice that much difference from 3.73 to 4.10. If your 2wd try 4.30's, if 4x4 then go to 4.56 cause they don't make 4.30's for the front diff

 

i agree that its better to be safe than sorry. although i was messing around with my xcal II and it would let me add fuel to the mixture all the way to +16%, i ran +8% and i could tell that it was definately much richer to the point where i threw a CEL for bad Cat readings... so i know theres more fuel to be gotten... a dyno tune with carefully monitored AF readings after the pulley install would tell the true story tho...

im going to really look into a water meth kit. its like 100 out here today and my truck feels like it lost about 100 hp

yeah and a 3.73 to 4.10 swap would be a waste of money

 

I feel yah on the 100 part, I'm down here with yah in the south (mississippi) and it just feels miserable. However the 3000rpm stall is TONS of fun

 

i bet, now all you need is some slicks so you can take advantage of that TC

 

Thats alot of fuel for only 8PSI. Stock fuel pump is probably good up to around 12PSI with a good tune, however dont quote me on that.

With some drag radials (only thing that fits on 04-08 trucks) you may want a drive shaft. Aparently when the trucks hook up its the only thing that gives.

On my truck I plan to go 10PSI with 47lb injectors, get some Efans, long tubes, water pump?, 4.10/4.30 gears (dunno im at 3.55) and a drive shaft and some rims and some drag radials. Should put me in low 13s, track now on stock whipple tune and all that would put me in high 13s.

oh and 3000 stall will be HORRIBLE on the street. You'll never feel the power engauge and its real hard on the rest of the drivetrain unless its built up.

 

I like the stall, it's tons of fun
I have actually snapped a drive shaft once before though so I'm weary another one might go. I'm just gonna try and get mine into the 13 anything, which I don't think will be to hard considering the truck stock with the charger and stock roush tune went some high 14s.

Big stall, more boost, a tune, and taking my 22s off should definately put it in the 13s I think.

 

please correct me if im wrong, but i thought the purpose of a higher stall torque converter was so that you could launch at a higher rpm.

if thats true, it wont really help at all with your 1/4 times because if you launch at anything over probably 1500 rpm tops, you will just spin away... the only way to take advantage of it would be to make your truck so that it wouldnt spin much on a 3000 rpm launch. that would take traction bars and slicks at the very least. and not to mention that actually hooking at that rpm would probably be snapping u joints and bending driveshafts and so on...

im not trying to be negative, but i just dont want you to think that that torque converter is going to help your times unless you are more heavily modded. again, if im wrong please let me know

but traction IS the key, and can easily mean a half second difference even without a high stall torque coverter. if you can add some more ponies and find a way not to spin at a decent launch, 13's should be possible