Magnacharger Kit Stalling out!!

Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #16  
weazel's Avatar
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Oh I thought it was a complete you have to change the motor though? Well lol that does no good!
yup have to change the motor.. lol
 
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
If your throttle body fails just go with a 80mm BBK one =)

Ilde on most cars/trucks ive seen is usually 600-700RPM, any lower and it will probably stall or get blower surge.
Idle nuetral and idle drive on the tuner was set at 650 for both, I bumped it up to 750 for now and will see how it runs.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 11:16 PM
  #18  
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From: Murray , Kentucky
I've still got the problem with mine.

Stalls out at stop lights and decelerating to a stop.

I've changed the O2 sensors (Upstream), replaced the throttle body, replaced the TPS, fuel filter gets changed frequently. The MAF sensor has been cleaned.

The Idle RPM is only an issue sometimes. No, I havn't bumped it up.

For me, it is only an issue on hot, muggy days. During the cooler months, the trucks runs like a champ.

When it acts up badly, I park it, run the E-fans for a couple of mins with the hood up, and it's fine again.

It's no doubt heat related in my situation, but in 2 years dealing with it, I can tell when it's about to start acting up.

Let me know when you guys get it figured out so i can get mine fixed.



It's still new. :P Only has 55k miles on it.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 11:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by khendrix2374
I've still got the problem with mine.

Stalls out at stop lights and decelerating to a stop.

I've changed the O2 sensors (Upstream), replaced the throttle body, replaced the TPS, fuel filter gets changed frequently. The MAF sensor has been cleaned.

The Idle RPM is only an issue sometimes. No, I havn't bumped it up.

For me, it is only an issue on hot, muggy days. During the cooler months, the trucks runs like a champ.

When it acts up badly, I park it, run the E-fans for a couple of mins with the hood up, and it's fine again.

It's no doubt heat related in my situation, but in 2 years dealing with it, I can tell when it's about to start acting up.

Let me know when you guys get it figured out so i can get mine fixed.



It's still new. :P Only has 55k miles on it.

whats the idle set at? honestly try to bump idle up...
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 01:32 AM
  #20  
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I bumped mine up to 750 then backed it down to 700, on initial startup the tach was near 2K, not sure why that was happening but once I dropped it to 700 for neutral and drive initial startup revs dropped back down to where they use to be. I have tried to get it to die on me again, so i can see if i get a code but nothing so far, it tried to yesterday but it corrected itself and drove normally for the rest of the time. Mine died at 0930 and it was still rather cool (right around 80) but nasty humid, maybe 15 minutes worth of driving before it died.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #21  
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If there isn't a mechanical (MAF, TB, slightly fouled plugs, etc.) issue, suspect the tune, bad gas or even a weak battery. It should be able to hold idle even at 550 rpm. My Roushcharger will idle just fine on even the hotest days at 550 rpm. I have it at 650 rpm now, but that's not because it needs it, but rather because it helps it get off the line slightly quicker when I punch it (especially with the higher stall converter). The only time I've ever had an idle stall was in the driveway, about 30-60 seconds after startup, when the battery was weak (I don't drive the truck often). When it did that it was after the truck sat in the garage for 2 weeks without starting it. Now I keep a Battery Tender connected to it when its at home and no stalling issues since. Obviously though, if the battery is sulphicated (spelling?) a Battery Tender won't repair that (just prevents it).
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #22  
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I would bump your Neutral Idle to 50-100rpm above your drive idle. FFS
 
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