Relocating the air filter.

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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #16  
Marc Carpenter's Avatar
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From: North Canton, Ohio
Originally Posted by ONELOWF
On my long list of things to do is an enclosure to wrap the air filter, and the cutting of the inner wheel well. I just don't like the flex hose. I was able to put together multiple elbows and reducers, etc, with the original Powerdyne sheet metal air box, which pulled air from the wheel well. The original Powerdyne air filter is pretty small.....always trade offs....
I have read that air temps are +- 50* in the engine cpmpartment as compared to the wheel well depending on ambient air temp. I have also heard that it is not that big a difference, and that a straight run of pipe ahead of the mass air is best for tuning.... that's how I got to design I have.

EDIT: Another easy temp lowering device would be an efan, or fans on your intercooler. I have one 12"er on my 12" x 18" cooler. You could go with two 6"ers easily, and wire them together through a single fan controller.

Don't know where you read the +-50* difference between the wheelwell and the under the hood temperatures, it is way off. There is an enormous amount of fresh air available under the hood, in equal amounts and within a few degrees of that available in the wheelwell while the vehicle is in motion.
Not enough to worry about any serious relocations of the intake...At least not for your everyday driven, forced air induction vehicle...Even on my Lightning and Cobra, there was absolutely NO difference in performance from drawing outside air verses under the hood air. Been there, done that...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #17  
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There are several older threads, on this site and others, about this. Someone hooked-up an underhood thermometer/temp sensor.

At anything above walking speeds, the underhood temps were virtually the same as ambient temps outside.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 02:16 PM
  #18  
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From: NEVADA
Originally Posted by Marc Carpenter
Don't know where you read the +-50* difference between the wheelwell and the under the hood temperatures, it is way off. There is an enormous amount of fresh air available under the hood, in equal amounts and within a few degrees of that available in the wheelwell while the vehicle is in motion.
Not enough to worry about any serious relocations of the intake...At least not for your everyday driven, forced air induction vehicle...Even on my Lightning and Cobra, there was absolutely NO difference in performance from drawing outside air verses under the hood air. Been there, done that...
Hi Marc-
I got that recently from some of the Kenne Bell's writings online. So, now I have gotten it both ways. Mike has posted the same point that you make here.

Crash - good pics. Is that the Vortech/Mustang flat elbow? I have one too, but I'm using another version now. Did you cut the boost nipple in the back?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 02:35 PM
  #19  
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I'm sure that's correct about the underhood temps while the truck is moving. My reason for moving the air filter is for when I'm sitting at a long traffic light and like today, it's almost 110* outside, before noon. So when I finally step on the gas, it acts like it doesn't want to move because it's sucking in all that hot air trapped under the hood. The intercooler can't even cool the air because I'm not moving. I think moving the air filter down and forward will alleviate that. Once I'm moving, there's no issue.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #20  
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the flat elbow came with the charger. i went and got a 90 degree elbow from home depot to angle it off. i just have to get some piping to finish it off to the front of the bumper. the flat elbow didn't have a nipple on it. I just called powerdyne and it's a part number d10432-003 and the guy says it sells for around $60.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #21  
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From: The LBC (Long Beach, CA)
Originally Posted by adt
I'm sure that's correct about the underhood temps while the truck is moving. My reason for moving the air filter is for when I'm sitting at a long traffic light and like today, it's almost 110* outside, before noon. So when I finally step on the gas, it acts like it doesn't want to move because it's sucking in all that hot air trapped under the hood. The intercooler can't even cool the air because I'm not moving. I think moving the air filter down and forward will alleviate that. Once I'm moving, there's no issue.

Interesting...I'm in the desert quite often, at those temps and a bit higher on occasion, AC on and 7,000-lb boat in tow.

I've never had such a hesitation
Throttle response is always "right now"
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:20 PM
  #22  
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got a question. are you using a hose inbetween the supercharger and throttlebody? if so, the hesitation you are feeling is the actual hose expanding. i was having this same problem. i went to autozone and made me a kit.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jordan not Mike
There are several older threads, on this site and others, about this. Someone hooked-up an underhood thermometer/temp sensor.

At anything above walking speeds, the underhood temps were virtually the same as ambient temps outside.
I found this to be true as well. I have run AutoTap on my former '98 F150, my friends '99 Mustang GT and My current '04 SVT F150. As long as it was moving, intake temps were with in a couple degrees of ambient.

I'm not saying that people shouldn't extend their intake tracts. I did this on my '98 but I don't think it's worth the effort.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by crash_lucky13
got a question. are you using a hose inbetween the supercharger and throttlebody? if so, the hesitation you are feeling is the actual hose expanding. i was having this same problem. i went to autozone and made me a kit.
Nope, I'm using the stock intake from ATI. When I relocate the air filter then I'll use a flex hose. The hesitation I'm getting I think is due to a few different reasons. 1: high underhood temps. 2: e-fans can't keep the engine cool while A/C is on. 3: engine idles high (about 1000rpm) when hot causing excessive heat. I've got some work to do like cleaning the throttle body and IAC. That might help the high idle. I'm positive that moving the air filter out of the engine compartment will help the overall performance. I can imagine that when it's real hot outside and I'm sitting at a stop light for a couple of minutes, the underhood temps really heat up.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by adt
2: e-fans can't keep the engine cool while A/C is on. 3: engine idles high (about 1000rpm) when hot causing excessive heat. I've got some work to do like cleaning the throttle body and IAC.
I'm not sure I buy #2... But what kind of fans do you run? I run dual Derales and my temps are always quite low, and my AC blows cold even while idling in the summer heat. Way better than when I had the factory fan setup.

You mention that your idle is 1000 rpm. To me, that may be indicative of something amiss...and may be why your truck is hot while idling. Your idle should be where it was from the factory.

Considering your high idle, and somewhat unique problem despite running the same hardware as everyone else runs with no problems, something just doesn't sound right.

Are you running the FMU or did you upgrade your fuel system and get a custon tune?

Just my two cents.
Good luck.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #26  
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Damn right somethings amiss. The hot idle should be around 700 or so, and I'm sure that it's causing the overheat condition. The oil temp. and tranny temps run at 205+ unless I'm on the highway. Next week I'm pulling off the TB and IAC and cleaning them real good. Hope that helps. I don't have the FMU anymore. I'm running the 42# inj. and 90mm MAF with the ATI inline fuel pump. I'm so pissed right now that I'm about to rip out all the stuff and go back to stock, at least then I had no problems. ( Sorry, had to vent). It's been 2 weeks since I e-mailed Sal @ PSP about the tune, wondering if the idle situation can be corrected through the tune. The fans are dual 16" Perma cool that I bought from Mike Dunn. I also have a small fan for the tranny cooler that will go on as soon as I get the controller from Mike.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
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I feel your pain, man.
My truck barely ran for a couple of months before I got things sorted out to the degree where it was driveble...then another month or so before it was perfect.

Be patient...it'll be worth it once things get sorted out. These are big mods and things don't always go smoothly. But once it's right, you'll never regret it.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #28  
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I'll get it worked out, hopefully before I haul my boat to San Diego in August. But can you tell me this? Will the e-fans really keep the engine cool enough during the Phoenix summers? You know, 110* to 115*. The intercooler does seem to block some air flow to the oil and tranny cooler, maybe it's also blocking air flow to the radiator. I don't know, I'll post again when I clean the TB and IAC and see if that helps with the high idle. Thanks everyone.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:50 PM
  #29  
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From: SoCal & Lake Havasu, AZ
Yes. I have efans and spend most of my summer spare time in Lake Havasu, which, if this can be believed, is hotter that Phoeniz

Also you may look at your DPFE. Here is my post with that problem https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=21

Here is the whole tread on the heat issue: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=engine
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:15 PM
  #30  
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Could you be a little more specific about the location of the DPFE sensor? I looked at my TB and the only thing I say with 2 screws in it was the Trottle Position sensor. What's that thing with a rotating cap, electrical connection, and vacume lines right next to the TPS. If possible, could you send a picture of the DPFE sensor location? I really appreciate your help.
 
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